Gravityman Posted December 23, 2005 Share Posted December 23, 2005 Hey Subaru freaks Has anyone ever thought about convering their clutch system from cable to hydrolics? I am thinking about doing this reason being i am buying a street racing clutch and I want to remove all doubt from the clutch line. Pros vs Cons? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted December 23, 2005 Share Posted December 23, 2005 It can be done, but it ain't easy. I've done one car, don't think I'd want to do another. Stuffed the drivetrain from a '90 Geo Prism LSi into an '86 Chevy Nova, both of which were re-badged Toyota Corrola's. The Nova was an auto, the Prism was a 5-speed. Getting the master cylinder for the clutch mounted in the right spot was a real pain, really helped though that I had the dash out of the Nova during this, for wiring purposes. During one of my sleepless nights, I ran across a site where someone had swapped the drivetrain in his 'Roo. The clutch was hydraulic, and he did manage to get everything mounted as needed. But,, even he said it was a pain. So it can be done, just ain't easy. Myself, I prefer a linkage type of clutch operation. Lets you "feel" what the clutch is doing better than cable or hydraulics. I just may build the linkage set-up for mine when I get to that point. Thought it over, have it drawn out in my head, just haven't got beyond the 'thinking about it" point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
All_talk Posted December 23, 2005 Share Posted December 23, 2005 Sure could be done, as to parts sources... Lots of EJ Subaurs with hyd clutches, those parts might workout (specialy the pedal box). Also look at the aftermarket stuff the VW/dune buggy guys use. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted December 23, 2005 Share Posted December 23, 2005 I certainly have thought about, but haven't researched it very far yet. I grew up on hydraulic clutches (Datsuns, Toyotas, Triumph), and it is surprising the difference in pedal effort between those and most of my soobs (I have an XT that is an exception), with the hydraulics being smooth and light, and the cables being heavy and having "issues". Much of the difference is probably cable routing and condition, but a cable on its best day just barely comes up to an ordinary hydraulic. I have a big suspicion that much of our soobs' clutch problems/failures are caused by cable issues; my Datsun uses similar clutch components (size/pressure), but last much longer with no slippage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted December 23, 2005 Share Posted December 23, 2005 hydraulic clutches are nice that way, but if you have a slow leak, and get air into the system.......not good. a linkage setup would be killer. i personally like to "feel" what the car is doing, so if somethigns wrong i can tell. ~Josh~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikie Posted December 26, 2005 Share Posted December 26, 2005 You may have to use a different clutch lever, a hydraulic clutch potentially has a shorter throw than a cable... or to out it another way: If you replace the cable with a hydraulic cylinder it wont be able to push the lever far enough. Most hydraulic systems use a shorter lever and maybe 3/4" movement to operate, cables seem to typically have a longer lever and twice the travel, i guess to reduce the actual load on the cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted December 26, 2005 Share Posted December 26, 2005 What vehicle are you wanting to do this on? On the newer gen subarus, there are two different types of clutch engagement systems, pull & push. The pull style is all hydraulic. The push style was cable & hydraulic. To convert a push style to hydraulic, you will need a hydraulic pedal box, clutch master cylinder, clutch lines, clutch slave cylinder, (I think the clutch fork is different too), and any associated misc hardware. You'll also need to change the pivot point for the clutch fork. There's two bosses in the transmission. For the hydraulic setup, you just have to move it to the other position. I don't know if it's tapped or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 I've thought of this. With a donor car, this would be easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 Not to be mean or rude.... But bring the donor and recipient up here and do it my driveway so I can watch. Maybe I went about it the wrong way, don't know. Just know doing the conversion out in the driveway with limited amount of fab equipment wasn't easy.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravityman Posted December 28, 2005 Author Share Posted December 28, 2005 I would be doing this to the xt6 trans. Couldnt you just mount the slave lower/closer to the transmission which would make up for the distance it needs to travel or push the fork? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 I'm not sure if the older gen stuff is the same as the newer. If it's not, you may be able to. If it is the same or similar you may or may not be able depending or not if you fab up your own bracket. I sort of think the fork for the hyd. setup is different, which may also be the reason they change the pivot point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 just one thought, WHAT ABOUT THE HILL HOLDER????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 I would be doing this to the xt6 trans. Couldnt you just mount the slave lower/closer to the transmission which would make up for the distance it needs to travel or push the fork? Depends on the parts used really. Size of Master Cylinder bore, both diameter & length. Same with Slave Cylinder, and where the pivot point is on the levers. Using a larger bore/ stroke length MC would push a smaller bore SC further in it's stroke length. Diameter of SC, will effect how much working force(pressure) it has in association with the diameter of the MC bore. Also, where the actuating rod for the MC is hooked to the clutch pedal will change the force applied to the MC, as in how much leg work is involved. Compare the brake pedal/ MC set-up between a car with power brakes, and one with standard brakes. The MC rod on power brakes is closer to the pivot point of the pedal than the standard brake one is. This is because you need more leg work from the standard set-up to work the hydraulics of the system. Lowering the MC rod from the pivot point on the clutch pedal will increase the stroke length applied to the MC, along with the force. Length/diameter of the SC will determine how far the clutch fork will move at the working end, and how much force is applied to the pressure plate. The pivot point on the clutch fork will effect force applied to the PP, along with length of stroke needed by the SC to move it enough to release the clutch. Have I got you all confused now??? I work in hydraulics and was just trying to paint a picture of how things work here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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