Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

Exhaust studs


  • Please log in to reply
2 replies to this topic

#1 subeman90

subeman90

    Soobologist

  • Moderator
  • 2,786 posts
  • Akron PA

Posted 02 January 2006 - 09:52 PM

Borrowed from Ultimate Subaru Message Board 3.8.00 posted by Zapar

If the hole the post is in gets stripped, it isn't a big deal to fix it. At your local auto parts store, you should be able to find what's called a 'Helicoil thread repair kit'. The kit should contain; 1 drill bit, 1 Tap (re-threads), several helicoils, and a helicoil installer.

The kit is kind of self-explanatory, but basically you drill the existing hole to clean it out, rethread the hole with the tap, and screw in a helicoil. The hole will be stronger than when it came out of the factory. The size that should fit (EA-81 models) is M-10 by 1.25. M-10 meaning 10 mm.

The whole process should take less than a half hour, including taking off the Y-pipe. The Sub mechanic who first told me about it said to be smart and use a post again rather than a bolt. (In case you need to take that damn pipe off again)

Should quiet that noise right down.


Update:07/24/2001

I recently performed this operation on my 86 HB. I found it to fairly easy but will say this. Drilling into your heads can play games on you mentally. Don't give yourself an ulcer worrying about it and have some faith in your tools and handywork. My HB is QUITE a bit quieter than it ever was before.
ANother thing to remember is that it will need at least 2 inserts per hole, and I encountered a couple of inserts that just didnt want to cooperate with the insertion too.


The kit was around $60 from Napa. I found this was the only place in town that had the correct bolt and thread kit.

Basically take your time, dont make it a 30 minute job the first time, and tell us about your success when you are through.

#2 moosens

moosens

    Psychotic Subathusiast

  • Members
  • 1,287 posts
  • Bridgeport CT

Posted 02 January 2006 - 11:11 PM

I would like to add that Timeserts are excellent for the person who expects to take their Y-pipe down at least one more time or more in the future.


The Timesert is a cylinder threaded on both the inner and outer sides so you can always take your bolt out and re-insert it without the coil coming out with it.Timeserts go in the same way a heli coil does and lock into a chamfer.Pricey but worth it to some folks.

#3 Phizinza

Phizinza

    Yip yip

  • Members
  • 3,872 posts
  • South Australia

Posted 06 January 2006 - 12:28 AM

If you are going to do this. Use real "helicoil" style inserts (they look like a spring.) I used cheap rip offs that were like a thred with a threded hole in it. They just pulled right out after a couple of weeks. I am now getting the heads fixed again, after I took it too a pro repair guy and his welds have broken. So. Use expencive stuff.

Also, remeber to NEVER drill further then the original hole. (like I did :rolleyes:) you will have oil flowing down the stud and all over the rocker cover, crossmember, driveshaft, and exhaust.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users