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What is needed to install a lift¿¿¿
Posted 07 October 2003 - 09:31 PM
Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:25 PM
Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:28 PM
Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:29 PM
Mostly though.. you just need the lift
Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:31 PM
Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:32 PM
Its a body lift, it does not affect the suspension.
The bigger tires/wheels are for looks and aren't required. But you will not take long to want the bigger ones. Thats half of the reason people do the lift kit...so the bigger tires will fit under the car.
Check out www.ozified.com for more details.
Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:32 PM
Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:35 PM
right on and thanks for the help fellas
Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:40 PM
Each case is different. But for the most part, by lifting your rig, you will be tempted to take it into places you would normally not think of going.
Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:52 PM
Posted 08 October 2003 - 09:15 AM
the hatch has 14" puegot steelies, and 28" tires.. has plenty of power for hills and climbin still.. and will still do 65 mph down the road drivin like a car
tires on the front seem to be wearing pretty evenly, nothin funny noticeable..
and its not top heavy since the drivetrain, engine etc. is still stock hieght...
just my .02
Posted 08 October 2003 - 10:23 AM
tell the boyfriend mechanic to go back to school! (or at least look under a soob)
the only thing that will change is the lenght of the brake lines, steering linkage, and maybe the pitch bar, depending on how high you go.
if its an spfi, you might have to move the airbox in a little bit, so the plastic ductwork will still fit on there.
Posted 08 October 2003 - 01:44 PM
Posted 08 October 2003 - 01:47 PM
Posted 08 October 2003 - 03:19 PM
I have a '84 GL Wagon with a 3/3 PK Lift, 14" pug alloys, and 26.1" Cooper Discoverer STT's. The car handles just as good (if not better) than it did without the lift. The suspension is not altered in any way. The CV's are at the same angle, my camber is perfect, and the car is alot taller, and goes ALOT more places than it did stock.
Your Mechanic friend need's to do some more work on Subaru's before he opens his mouth about them. Aparently, he doesnt know much.
I was able to install my lift kit in 2 days, working by myself, and i had to re-do the front end of the lift because i made a mistake when installing it.
Posted 08 October 2003 - 03:21 PM
Everything is well documented in the lift installation instructions.
Posted 08 October 2003 - 03:34 PM
Posted 08 October 2003 - 03:44 PM
Just looks so.. right. Makes me want to lift the GL hatch now that I have a car for rally duty.
BTW 12 posts back someone stated a lift would get the chicks , now that is funny.
Posted 08 October 2003 - 07:08 PM
[B] Tony runs 27" tires with no lift, just alittle fender trimming.
how the hell does he do this. i would be very interesterd if someone could clarify and explain what needed to be cut. it would save me about $400 for a lift
Posted 08 October 2003 - 07:21 PM
Posted 08 October 2003 - 07:53 PM
here is the specific image with regard to the front brake lines.
AND as its the drivers side, look for the metal tab that protrudes forward of the strut (at its base) where it connects to the Hub assembly. This has a simple "C" clip that holds the brake line close to the strut for "Safety" reasons. Admittedly its not OEM safe with the liftkit, it is however Very safely tucked away from the strut and tire as i only needed to very conservatively bend it for the needed flexing room.
I had to (a while back) install a *newer* air strut and so to do it without taking the caliper off the hub and disconnecting the brake line and then having to deal with the "joy that is bleeding the brakes" - I ussed some "good quality" Tin-snips and cut the side of the tab and then bent it down. This allowed the brake line to be slid out of the tab of metal. Then i bent the metal tab back up and this kept the chances of accidental scraping the brake line to near zero from that piece of metal i just cut.
there, that clear enough? (worried i just babbled too far)
***NOW about the rear brakes....
it's easier to deal with. There is this -10mm? shallow bolt that holds the metal brake line to the main suspension crossbar (round tube) as you lower the rear section it will be obvious what bolts I am refering too.
NOW before you lower it too far a few inches(2-4) we also realized that the fuel line has a nice hidden shallow bolt to deal with too.
Between the tank and the fuel pump hidden (up under the passenger rear seat) is a small section of metal fuel line with rubber section to the tank and on the other side of the main round tube it will have a rubber hose going to the fuel pump.
(dork me can't recolect if this was a note in the install manual or not) anyways.
The fuel pump vibration plate bolts and this top bolt on the "inbetween metal pipe" need to be removed before you go anyfurther.... that way no fuel accidentally gets spilled from a oops with it. :>)
hows that folks?
Posted 06 August 2004 - 11:56 PM
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