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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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What is needed to install a lift¿¿¿


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30 replies to this topic

#1 MaroonDuneDoom

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Posted 07 October 2003 - 09:31 PM

i was wondering what parts i would need to install a byb 3/3 or 4/3 lift on an 88 gl wagon. i'm just not sure what else i will need besides the lift kit. one more thing? are those suspension or body lifts? i presume they are body lifts.

#2 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:24 PM

They are body lifts

#3 Adam N.D.J.

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Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:25 PM

They are a body lift. All you need is the kit, basic hand tools, jack, jack stands and some time. A couple friends helps, but not needed. Also you'll need to furnish your own bigger rims and tires. You get the lift blocks and all the bolts n' stuff you need to put it in there.

#4 MaroonDuneDoom

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Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:28 PM

thanks for the help. i was just talking to my mom's experienced mechanic boyfriend and he refused to help me and strongly discouraged me from installing a lift. he said it would only lead to suspension problems and eventually rebuilding my front end. is there ANY truth to this?

#5 calebz

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Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:29 PM

You may need to alter your exhaust to clear the moustache bar after the lift.. also? you may need to mve your airbox, or lenghten the hose that goes to it.


Mostly though.. you just need the lift

#6 MaroonDuneDoom

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Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:31 PM

that helps but i'm wondering what kind of cv and/or axle damage that could result or any other problems of that sort

#7 ShawnW

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Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:32 PM

I recommend replacing struts and shocks while you are at it but its not necessary.

Its a body lift, it does not affect the suspension.

The bigger tires/wheels are for looks and aren't required. But you will not take long to want the bigger ones. Thats half of the reason people do the lift kit...so the bigger tires will fit under the car.

Check out www.ozified.com for more details.

#8 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:32 PM

He's a retard - the lift does NOTHING to your suspension, as you are simply lifting the body off the suspension and drivetrain wholesale. Everything suspension and drivetrain wise is left bone stock. The only thing it will do make the camber slightly negative. This will only result in tires wearing faster, and only if you use stock tires - if you put big off-road tires on, it will do basically nothing to them, since most of them are pretty tough. Remember - you are doing a body lift so you can put bigger tires on, nothing more.

GD

#9 MaroonDuneDoom

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Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:35 PM

yeah thats all i'm going for is the big tires. but the lifts just look soo mean. i bet it will get chicks too. very unique on a wagon. it's nice to hear someone else but me call him a retard.
right on and thanks for the help fellas

#10 Adam N.D.J.

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Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:40 PM

Whot the general states is true. I started out with a home built 2" lift, and had no problem for 2 years, then moved up to a 4" BYB lift, still no problems for over 2 years, then I recently moved up to 6"s of lift. It still handles very much like a car on the road. Drivability doesn't suffer any. The only thing that you will notice is that with the bigger tires, it will take a little more to get up and going, although depending on how big you go, this may not be noticed.
Each case is different. But for the most part, by lifting your rig, you will be tempted to take it into places you would normally not think of going.

#11 MaroonDuneDoom

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Posted 07 October 2003 - 10:52 PM

do you guys recommend a 3 or 4 inch lift. i only want to run 27 or 28 inch tires to reduce gearing up so i can still climb. any of you guys that run 27's 28's or larger i would love to hear your input on tire size and climbing/wheeling capabilities

#12 PHATBRAT

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Posted 07 October 2003 - 11:16 PM

Go with the 4 inch kit.

#13 Meeky Moose

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Posted 08 October 2003 - 09:15 AM

the hatch i picked up has a 4/3 lift, tell that guys he's a retard, and if ya wanna show him a pic of a lifted soob i'll email ya one...
the hatch has 14" puegot steelies, and 28" tires.. has plenty of power for hills and climbin still.. and will still do 65 mph down the road drivin like a car :lol:

tires on the front seem to be wearing pretty evenly, nothin funny noticeable..
and its not top heavy since the drivetrain, engine etc. is still stock hieght...

just my .02

#14 MilesFox

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Posted 08 October 2003 - 10:23 AM

all of the axles and driveline will be at the same angles relative to the suspension and drivetrain. the motor, trans, axles and wheels we be to the same proportion, as the body sits up hugher on the same dimensions.

tell the boyfriend mechanic to go back to school! (or at least look under a soob)

the only thing that will change is the lenght of the brake lines, steering linkage, and maybe the pitch bar, depending on how high you go.
if its an spfi, you might have to move the airbox in a little bit, so the plastic ductwork will still fit on there.

#15 soobme

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Posted 08 October 2003 - 01:44 PM

My big question is: What about the brake lines? How do you remedy the length issue? Do I have to get new ones, or can the stock ones be re-located. I'm planing on a 2" or 3" lift on my turbo wagon (EA82T '85)

#16 MaroonDuneDoom

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Posted 08 October 2003 - 01:47 PM

thanks milesfox, thats exactly what i will tell him. i'll even show him the post:lol:

#17 TheSubaruJunkie

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Posted 08 October 2003 - 03:19 PM

I would go with the 3/3 lift. Its easier to install. Ive heard with the 4/3 lift, there are some mod's that need to be made to make it shift right... etc. The 3/3 is alittle cheaper, easier to install, and just as functional. If you are only running 27's, 3" of lift will be fine. Tony runs 27" tires with no lift, just alittle fender trimming.

I have a '84 GL Wagon with a 3/3 PK Lift, 14" pug alloys, and 26.1" Cooper Discoverer STT's. The car handles just as good (if not better) than it did without the lift. The suspension is not altered in any way. The CV's are at the same angle, my camber is perfect, and the car is alot taller, and goes ALOT more places than it did stock.

Your Mechanic friend need's to do some more work on Subaru's before he opens his mouth about them. Aparently, he doesnt know much.

I was able to install my lift kit in 2 days, working by myself, and i had to re-do the front end of the lift because i made a mistake when installing it.

-Brian

#18 TheSubaruJunkie

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Posted 08 October 2003 - 03:21 PM

Oh, and for the brake lines... all you need to do is disconnect the brake line from the strut housing, and you will have enough slack for the front brakes. And in the rear you disconnect the brake from the torsion assembly, and you'll have enough slack as well. I put rear disc brakes on my wagon, and they had another 4" of extra brake line, so that worked out perfectly for me.

Everything is well documented in the lift installation instructions.

-Brian

#19 MorganM

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Posted 08 October 2003 - 03:32 PM

soobme: brake lines are fine.

#20 TheSubaruJunkie

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Posted 08 October 2003 - 03:34 PM

Tony, ive been looking for steel braided brake lines for our subies. I heard Shannon found some, but need to get a part number. Also a friend of mine in Fresno had found a set at Napa, he gave me a part # but i lost it.

-Brian

#21 gravelRX

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Posted 08 October 2003 - 03:44 PM

I think the best looking lifted Sube has to be EJ's cream colored hatch in his pic album.

Just looks so.. right. Makes me want to lift the GL hatch now that I have a car for rally duty.

BTW 12 posts back someone stated a lift would get the chicks , now that is funny.



Jay

#22 MaroonDuneDoom

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Posted 08 October 2003 - 07:08 PM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by TheSubaruJunkie
[B] Tony runs 27" tires with no lift, just alittle fender trimming.


how the hell does he do this. i would be very interesterd if someone could clarify and explain what needed to be cut. it would save me about $400 for a lift

#23 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 08 October 2003 - 07:21 PM

Do the lift - it doesn't look as good, and you will have to cut out most of the fenders to get them on. The lift looks meaner, cause the whole body is 4" higher than on his.

GD

#24 electryc_monk

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Posted 08 October 2003 - 07:53 PM

okay here is the (link below) job Calbz and I did at his Casa a couple months ago.

http://groups.msn.co...MB/shoebox.msnw
http://groups.msn.co...ectrycmonk.msnw

here is the specific image with regard to the front brake lines.
http://groups.msn.co...oto&PhotoID=956

AND as its the drivers side, look for the metal tab that protrudes forward of the strut (at its base) where it connects to the Hub assembly. This has a simple "C" clip that holds the brake line close to the strut for "Safety" reasons. Admittedly its not OEM safe with the liftkit, it is however Very safely tucked away from the strut and tire as i only needed to very conservatively bend it for the needed flexing room.

I had to (a while back) install a *newer* air strut and so to do it without taking the caliper off the hub and disconnecting the brake line and then having to deal with the "joy that is bleeding the brakes" - I ussed some "good quality" Tin-snips and cut the side of the tab and then bent it down. This allowed the brake line to be slid out of the tab of metal. Then i bent the metal tab back up and this kept the chances of accidental scraping the brake line to near zero from that piece of metal i just cut.

there, that clear enough? (worried i just babbled too far)

***NOW about the rear brakes....
it's easier to deal with. There is this -10mm? shallow bolt that holds the metal brake line to the main suspension crossbar (round tube) as you lower the rear section it will be obvious what bolts I am refering too.

NOW before you lower it too far a few inches(2-4) we also realized that the fuel line has a nice hidden shallow bolt to deal with too.

Between the tank and the fuel pump hidden (up under the passenger rear seat) is a small section of metal fuel line with rubber section to the tank and on the other side of the main round tube it will have a rubber hose going to the fuel pump.

(dork me can't recolect if this was a note in the install manual or not) anyways.

The fuel pump vibration plate bolts and this top bolt on the "inbetween metal pipe" need to be removed before you go anyfurther.... that way no fuel accidentally gets spilled from a oops with it. :>)

hows that folks?

TMI?

#25 Jibs

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Posted 06 August 2004 - 11:56 PM

I have a question. I just received my 4/3 lift kit from ozified, and I was wondering if I have to buy new shocks and struts. I probably should, but is it essential when installing the lift? Thanks for the help.




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