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New Turbowagon...needs help


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21 replies to this topic

#1 blownbimer

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 01:27 AM

Well, I added subie number two to the collection last night. Its an 84 GL turbo wagon. Has 140k on it, and it seems to be preety nice. I know little about ea 81s and its having issues. When Kingbobdole and I picked up the car, It didnt even have enough power to drive up onto the trailer. We got it home, and he found one of the valve cover vent tubes was disconnected. Re connected it, played with the distributor, and it runs. Heres the problem though. It smells super rich, and has NO throtal responce. Once its warmed up, It Idels at 3k. Turbo seems to boost. No idea where to even start on it. Any thoughts would be great!
Pics are here
http://photobucket.c...urbowagon/?sc=1

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#2 Caboobaroo

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 01:41 AM

ok, few things to fix or check up on...
tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor)
check the 02 sensor
check the intake tube to make sure its all connected and tight
check for vacuum leaks from cracked hoses

#3 Hondasucks

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 04:41 AM

Convert that bizznatch to a 5 speed :-P Also, you can drop in an EA82T provided it is 85-86, it's BIT tight but it fits, seen it done in a Brat.

#4 john in KY

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 05:46 AM

The super rich condition could be caused by a ruptured FPR.

#5 LUVMYBRAT

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 09:07 AM

looks like a nice t-wagon, auto? if so there could be tranny issues too if it couldn't move up a trailer very well. These are notarious tranny burners, remember what you brought up to me? Ditto on the tune up, seems like that just makes good piece of mind whenever you pick up a twenty year old car that you know nothing about. plugged fuel filters should be checked too.

#6 Jerry DeMoss

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 10:05 AM

Ya tune up.I would second the guess on the FPR.Check and clean the egr,pcv,also clean the injectors(may be sticking)cap&rotor,plug wires.

Definately those fuel filters.

#7 monstaru

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 10:08 AM

tuneup+seafoam = happy you

#8 blownbimer

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 12:14 PM

I *THINK* the trans is okay...once I bumped the timing, it has power, and shifts, so I would assume the trans is okay. FPR you all seem to think and a tune up....thats where I'll start checking things out.

#9 LUVMYBRAT

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 01:11 PM

hey I 've got a set of 4 spoke alloys like what is on my t-coupe if your interested in dressing the wagon up.

#10 blownbimer

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 01:42 PM

hey I 've got a set of 4 spoke alloys like what is on my t-coupe if your interested in dressing the wagon up.


I'll think about that....Im kicking around the idea of selling it after I get it running decent. I just dont honestly have the time to spend on all these cars..A few may go up for sale soon.

#11 Caboobaroo

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 01:44 PM

I'll think about that....Im kicking around the idea of selling it after I get it running decent. I just dont honestly have the time to spend on all these cars..A few may go up for sale soon.


Or maybe give it to me;)

#12 jeffast

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Posted 05 January 2006 - 01:19 AM

just step away from the boost controller and slowly turn off the engine

nice score hows the other wagon running?

#13 blownbimer

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Posted 05 January 2006 - 02:36 AM

just step away from the boost controller and slowly turn off the engine

nice score hows the other wagon running?


The 86 is in peices in phils garage right now. Gona clean up the motor and put it back together.

#14 carfreak85

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Posted 05 January 2006 - 01:18 PM

I'll second the tune up. Also check the adjustment on the throttle stop and the dash pot. These may be out of adjustment and be throwing the idle off. Also check the air temperature sensor and the coolant temp sensor. I could think of more, but I'm trying to walk out the door!

#15 blownbimer

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 12:11 AM

Is there an easy way to check the fpr? it seems to be kinda tucked in to just replace and check.

Now the car gets hot when it sits...I could hear coolant boiling in the manifold or something...Im sure I'll get it..heh Tried adjusting the throtal stop, and it bumped it down to about 2K so theres still something wrong. The only way to get any power from it, is to advance the timing. Tried the carb cleaner trick to find a vacume leak, but no luck. Oh well...I'll get it!

#16 carfreak85

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 03:01 AM

The thermostat might not be opening, so try replacing that and giving the cooling system a good back flush. Did you try adjusting the dash pot and checking the other inputs for the FI system?

#17 blownbimer

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Posted 10 January 2006 - 04:13 PM

The thermostat might not be opening, so try replacing that and giving the cooling system a good back flush. Did you try adjusting the dash pot and checking the other inputs for the FI system?


Okay, its comming along. Throtal cable was way too tight, so I adjusted that. once its warmed up, it runs great, good power and all. Thought I had got it. I just went out and started it, and seems as now its cold, it doesnt want to idel well (too low) and when first started no power...if I rev it at about 1500 for 30 sec, it gets power, but doesn't idel well. Which sensor should I check first?

#18 Ross

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Posted 10 January 2006 - 04:38 PM

AAV, coolant temp sensor or poor injectors could do that, have you checked for codes from the ecu?

#19 blownbimer

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 10:35 PM

AAV, coolant temp sensor or poor injectors could do that, have you checked for codes from the ecu?


Im lazy, I havent checked the computer. Heres what I've checked....Coolant temp sensor(s) connections looked okay on them...one needed some cleaning up. No change in how the car ran though. Then I went to the Air flow sensor, and unpluged it. The car smoothed out, and had good responce. Would that tell me the airflow sensor is bad?

#20 Caboobaroo

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 11:13 PM

I would shoot for a bad MAF. When its plugged in, its still sending a signal to the computer even though its totally wrong. When you unplug it, it puts it into "limp mode" where the computer will put in a variable for the MAF sensor calculated off of the other sensors. Just my $.02

#21 Ross

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Posted 12 January 2006 - 04:12 PM

Yep, sounds like thats your problem - try cleaning the connector before you replace it, mine was doing that at one stage and cleaning the connector did the trick.

#22 blownbimer

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Posted 13 January 2006 - 03:46 AM

Went ahead and replaced it...runs great now! Thanks guys!




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