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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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What if FWD fuse fixes torque bind


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9 replies to this topic

#1 NOMAD327

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 10:17 AM

My buddy has an 01 OBW and just had automatic transmission rebuilt, it had internal seal leakage which caused delayed reverse engagement. A shop put a seal conditioner in which helped, but he had a full rebuild with a new kit done by an experienced independent shop. There were no problems with dirt or contamination, bad seals were found and replaced and the transmission now works normal. He unfortunately is now experiencing torque bind which was not there before. The tires are all matched and no other obvious problems. Installing the FWD fuse eliminates the bind, which to me rules out wiring, connectors and the actual duty c solenoid as being problems. Any ideas what might be left to check?

#2 grossgary

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 10:54 AM

i don't see mileage or date posted, i'd replace the trans fluid.

otherwise start sourcing a new extension housing (used possibly) or clutch pack.

#3 Legacy777

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 01:00 PM

You could also try adding some LSD clutch type additive. That sometimes helps.

But first I'd change the trans fluid.

#4 friendly_jacek

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 06:11 PM

I would vote for tranny filter change. It worked for someone here.

#5 lucasb

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 04:54 PM

Say the ATF was changed and it didn't go away. Then what?

/thread highjack

#6 grossgary

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 05:09 PM

Say the ATF was changed and it didn't go away. Then what?

/thread highjack


describe "change"? was it just drained once, multiple times, or flushed?

draining the fluid once only gets about 33% of the fluid out.

if that doesn't work then the clutches are shot and there are grooves that likely need to be checked/filed down.

#7 WoodsWagon

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 07:15 PM

I've fixed a few legacys now by changing the fluid 3 times. Change it, drive a bit, change again, drive more, change again, call it good. Drive in figure 8's in a parking lot after you're done changing it to burnish the rear clutch pack.

#8 987687

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 09:09 PM

Apparently Lucas transmission stuff helps too... Never done it personally.
For me, 3 drain and fill sessions got rid of the torque bind.
But seeing as he's had the transmission rebuilt, likely it has 100% new fluid in it, and changing the fluid isn't going to fix the problem.

#9 lucasb

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 03:52 AM

GrossGary:

I've changed my ATF by draining the pan 3 times now. The torque bind is gone immediately after changing the fluid, and the ATF oil temp stops flashing, however, each time it comes back after 20-50 miles or so. The ATF fluid has gotten slightly more red each time, but still appears pretty black when its 4 quarts thick.

For someone who doesn't have much money, what are my options? I've never done more than change fluids on cars. I am open to trying to repair it myself if that's possible, but obviously I lack a lot of general knowledge. The FWD cures the torque bind, so I'm pretty sure it is my clutches that have gone bad. I have warped rotors, but don't really wanna pay for new ones until I get this figured out. Doing them first couldn't potentially solve the problem though could it?

Every ones help is extremely appreciated.

#10 mattocs

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 05:19 AM

I picked up a 95 Legacy this past weekend that had some TB. I drain/filled three times with Valvoline MaxLife ATF and the problem went away. It got better and better each time I drained and filled it. I will probably do a drain and fill every oil change to keep the fluid fresh.

Do a search for Duty C solenoid. Parts will run you $100 or so, and shouldn't take more than a few hours to do, and the transmission does not need to come out of the car. I've never done it, but I've been reading on it the last few days.. Seems pretty easy.

Good luck.

Edited by mattocs, 23 February 2012 - 05:23 AM.





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