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5Speed D/R Swap?????
Posted 08 October 2003 - 01:17 AM
Thanks In Advance.
Posted 08 October 2003 - 01:26 AM
Posted 08 October 2003 - 01:28 AM
Posted 08 October 2003 - 01:39 AM
also dont quote me on this but i seem to remember something about the auto and manual diff ratios being different as well it might be worth looking into.. i think the usrm link at the top of the page might be able to tell you for sure.. well if i think of any thing else ill let ya know... good luck your gunna need it.
Posted 08 October 2003 - 01:43 AM
Posted 08 October 2003 - 01:50 AM
What weekend are you planning on doing this? I can get a sunday off and come up to help if you need it.
Posted 08 October 2003 - 01:52 AM
Posted 08 October 2003 - 01:57 AM
Thanks for the Help.
Posted 08 October 2003 - 01:59 AM
Posted 08 October 2003 - 02:02 AM
Posted 08 October 2003 - 02:07 AM
Posted 08 October 2003 - 02:54 AM
I believe all AT's have the same spline count as non-turbo 5spd DR's
Posted 08 October 2003 - 08:30 AM
ok.. here we go.. I just did the Auto to manual swap a few months ago.. I didn't use the D/R, I used the S/R but for the most part my info still applies.
There was a reference above to cutting something or other.. Don't know what that is about.. there's no cutting to be done.. except a couple of wires for your reverse lights:D
If you have the 3AT, the axle spline count will be the same as the D/R ( non-RX type)
If you have the 4EAT,on a turbo car, they do indeed use the 25 spline turbo axles(thats new to me,but was given by a reliable source)
Pedal assembly is a real pain. definitely the hardest part.
You will need the rear driveline for a manual car. you will need a flywheel. you will need a clutch kit. These come with TO bearings, but don't generally come with the clips for the TO bearing.. you will need the tranny crossmember along with the rubber mount/bushings that go with ityo will also need the shifter assembly and center console trim pieces.. don't forget the reverse spring on the shifter linkage.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that you have the option of swapping out the master cylinder/brake booster for one that has the Hill Holder set up. I opted not to do that as I was in a time crunch. if you choose not to use that setup, you will have to have a seperate return spring on the clutch fork.
You will also have to get the rear diff from the donor car, as yours is 3.7, and your new tranny will be 3.9.
I'm sure there are a few things I missed. Its a big job, but its not as hard as it sounds. I will be happy to answer any specific questions you may have
Posted 08 October 2003 - 10:35 AM
being that your car is already 4wd, the drivshaft and diff will fit the same.
the clutch pedal box(all 3 pedals in one assembly) will fit the same. i would remove the steering column, since it goes through the bedal box, it comes out with 2 bolts and some electrical connections. there will be a rubber plug covering the hole that is already there for the clutch cable. when getting the pedal assy, disconnect the clutch cable from the tranny end, and leave it connected to the pedal end. grab the grommet from the donor car if possible.
the padal assy is held on by 4 studs that come through the firewall from the brake booster assembly, and the top half bolts to the steering column for added support.
put the pedals in with the 4 nuts, then the steering column, then the top bolts after that.
there is a flat spot on the steering shaft, that the retainer bolt fots across, it will only go on one way, make sure your wheels are straight when doing the steering column.
the hole for the inner shifter boot may be a little different, but the outer boot/plate will snap right onto the center console where the at's used to be, all will fit like its supposed to.
the only clue to it was an automatic is PRND1 on the instrument cluster!
the axles will use a 3/16 punch, dont use a 1/4 inch, or it will get stuck! there is a concave side on the axle to drive the pins out/in from.
when doing the diff, drop the mustace bar from the 19mm nuts, and articulate it one way and then the other to slide off each axle.
when dong the trans, and assuminf the motor is out, you can pull the tranny one way or the other to slide the axles on one way otr the other.
the axles only fit on one way, if its 180 off, the holes wont align exactly.
slide the punch through the holes to line them up before driving in the pins.
also, if you dont have the clutch center tool, as if using the same clutch if it is still good, you can do the clutch this way:
have the starter removed from the tranny. put the clutch disc on the flywheel, then mock up the pressure plate and thread the bolts in finger tight. the isea is its tight enough to hold the clutch disc still, but will be allowed to slide around by hand. that way it woll give enough to find its way onto the tranny shaft. once the motor is almost aginst the trans, wiggle the motor around until the shaft finds its way into the pilot bearing.
with the starter still out, and the motor against the tranny, now you can get in there with a 12mm socket to tighten down the 6 pressure plate bolts. now put on the starter, the thru-bolt that goes on the top of the starter holds on the battery ground cable, dont forget that because i always do!
a few tips of expertise from This Fox!
Posted 08 October 2003 - 11:35 AM
Posted 08 October 2003 - 11:52 AM
all the shifter mechanism can stay connected to the tranny. the only difference between a d/r and a single range is the shifter cover plate. the d/r will have the hole for the lever, and will still bolt up to the body like its supposed to.
just behind the shifter hole, on the underside, is a stud that the shifter mound goes to on the automatic's body.
you can take the shifter linkage off the tranny in one oiece if you wish, it s fine either way.
the only thing you will have to do thats not already there is bypass the neutrak safety switch(you can jump a wire on the auto shifter's wiring plug- in, or just make a pushbutton starter swit) you will have to re-wire the my for the reverse light, and there will be nothing for the 4wd light indicator to plug in(for the lo on the 4wd lever)
but all the physical fitment of everything will fit as if the car was already an MT!
take it from me, i put a 4wd5spd in a 2wd ea81, put one in a 4wd auto ea82 sedan, and converted a 2wd auto sedan to 4wd 5spd!
so i know what's involved in any possible 5spd/dr conversion, as well as a good number of board members.
if you tackle this on, and run into a problem, just ask the board, because enough of us have done this in a number of our own ways, so at least one of us will have the answer to your specific method of going at it!
Posted 08 October 2003 - 11:59 AM
Thanks for the Help Everyone
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