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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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(homemade 6" lift)yeahh baby...PICTURES PG 3


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48 replies to this topic

#26 scrap487

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 10:08 PM

ok heres some pics... havent tied the blocks together yet, might not happen tonight. also the shock you see isnt connected, I was too lazy to try to break the bolts loose at the top right away(they wont budge...). also you can see where I had problems with the lip of the gas tank getting in the way, I was doing that late at night and it was a PITA with channel locks, didnt wanna piss off my neighbors anymore using the BFH

#27 Andyjo

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 10:13 PM

WOW
that thing is HUGE! Awesome, dude, very nice work.

#28 Numbchux

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 10:46 PM

agreed!!! looks sweet! you weren't kidding about making that thing huge

just be careful about driving it until you get things beefed up. you'd be suprised how easily suspension stuff can be bent/broken!

#29 scrap487

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 10:49 PM

yeah... I agree, I hope 3" channel iron is enough to tie stuff together, I wasnt able to get the 2" square tubing free. should i tie the blocks on boths sides of the car together too? I dont have any metal that long other than some 1 1/2" 3/332round tubing

#30 Ryanb

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 01:52 AM

Looks great! But I think you are gonna bend the hell out of those blocks when you do some serious off roading. You might try for some thicker blocks in my opinon, but practice makes perfect. I'm also curios to see if it feels all wobbly on the road.

#31 scrap487

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 02:11 AM

Looks great! But I think you are gonna bend the hell out of those blocks when you do some serious off roading. You might try for some thicker blocks in my opinon, but practice makes perfect. I'm also curios to see if it feels all wobbly on the road.


wobbly? no... I'm not finished yet, all the blocks will be tied together with 3" or 4" channel, and that stuff is pretty heavy duty, you will see once I get it together. the lift on my jeep was made using 3x2 tubing of the same thickness, and i've jumped that thing and put it through some pretty extreme stuff and those blocks have held, and they arent tied together. on my soob I dont expect them to fail or even make it handle poorly once they are tied together, and theres 4 times as many blocks on there than on my jeep.

#32 scrap487

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 02:20 AM

anyone have a shop/garage they want to let me work in for a little while? weatherman says were supposed to get anywhere from 2-3 inches of rain to as much as 7-8 inches in the next 2 days.... :dead:

#33 nicky nighteyes

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 02:23 AM

i wish.....
i'm getting rained on in the driveway. once you get finished, you should come wheeling with us...

i mighta missed it.. what size tires are you putting on?

anyone have a shop/garage they want to let me work in for a little while? weatherman says were supposed to get anywhere from 2-3 inches of rain to as much as 7-8 inches in the next 2 days.... :dead:



#34 scrap487

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 02:56 AM

well I want to go with 30" because a lot more options open up for good tires at 30" and bigger, but I'm worried I wont be able to hold 55 or anything higher... but i might go for some 28 or 29" swampers or coopers. but then again I also want to be able to turn the tires if I get stuck in some major gumbo or deep snow, I've heard that with 28" or larger with stock gearing it can be difficult. lemme know next time you go wheeling I got a stock nissan pickup thats not too bad.

#35 nicky nighteyes

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 03:16 AM

will do, i try to go every weekend (if my car is in working order)
I would reccomend no larger than 29s without a t-case or EJ. I run 28.5 and its seems like any bigger and it would just be to much power loss

well I want to go with 30" because a lot more options open up for good tires at 30" and bigger, but I'm worried I wont be able to hold 55 or anything higher... but i might go for some 28 or 29" swampers or coopers. but then again I also want to be able to turn the tires if I get stuck in some major gumbo or deep snow, I've heard that with 28" or larger with stock gearing it can be difficult. lemme know next time you go wheeling I got a stock nissan pickup thats not too bad.



#36 stumpy

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 03:23 AM

Congrats on the progress!!:) Not enough power with larger tires was one of the concerns I had and the reason I decided to go with the EJ22 upgrade before I put it on the road. With only one leg to work the pedals I wanted to make its as easy as possible on me. Plus "I can't drive 55":grin: as Sammy puts it!! Keep up the work, looking good man, Stumpy

#37 scrap487

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 04:53 AM

yeah I think i'm gonna go with the 28.5 swampers, they look pretty good on your wagon night eyes, and if your engine is mostly stock w/ a weber, I dont think I'll have any problems, i dont plan on rockcrawling, but climbing hills in the mud is for sure. thats what, a 4" lift on your wagon? it doesn't look like you had to trim much to get those tires to fit. but then again, 33s or 35s on a lifted wagon with no fenders would look friggin awesome, but wouldnt be good for anything but cruisin. this thing dont got close to the power of my jeep(what, 60hp? vs 205hp and 235lb torque?), but I sure want to take it where i've had my jeep and then some; not gonna happen without gears unfortunately :-\

#38 nicky nighteyes

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 07:36 PM

thank you, yes that is 4" inch lift and stock engine (except for the weber of course)
but...
I did have to do a signifigant amount of beating and cutting of the fenders to have them not rub (it was like a 2 month process)
The problem was I would cut em back and they would be fine on the street, but then i would go off road and they would start rubbing due the extreme use, so back to the sawzall and hammer again. I also ending up removing the rear mudflaps and fender trim because they rubbed on that, with four people in the car or over gnarly bumps. But once you get em cut right, your good to go, been happy with em ever since.
except for all the screws my tires seem to seek out all the time....
good thing I got em at Les Schawb, I been in there five times now for a quick patch, and they never charge me a thing.

and yes, les Schawb will order swampers if you ask em too.;)

yeah I think i'm gonna go with the 28.5 swampers, they look pretty good on your wagon night eyes, and if your engine is mostly stock w/ a weber, I dont think I'll have any problems, i dont plan on rockcrawling, but climbing hills in the mud is for sure. thats what, a 4" lift on your wagon? it doesn't look like you had to trim much to get those tires to fit. but then again, 33s or 35s on a lifted wagon with no fenders would look friggin awesome, but wouldnt be good for anything but cruisin. this thing dont got close to the power of my jeep(what, 60hp? vs 205hp and 235lb torque?), but I sure want to take it where i've had my jeep and then some; not gonna happen without gears unfortunately :-\



#39 toyota_muddersport

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 09:02 PM

Wow, I just finished doing pretty much the exact same thing you are doing. Here's some things I know for DAMN sure:
1. Pull the engine/trans unless you have a bunch of jacks and amazing skill.
2. Your shifters are gonna be a real *ahem* "science project".
3. You CAN use the stock rag joint on the steering, but not sure yet for how long...
4. New stock rad hoses can be cut up to work, but won't clear stock airbox.
5. The trailing arm/trans mount subframe (which I call the six-pack) can be done last, the car will stand without it bolted on. Just don't drive or anything.
6. If you decide to do drop strut mounts, which I have decided basically aren't for me, make sure to think about camber correction. I forgot about that...
7. Putting things in between the square tubing is good. However, I don't know who decided it was absolutely necessary. I mean, it looks like it, doesn't it? I will do it eventually, but for now I jump my car basically twice a day and have really beaten the H out of it without failure. Also, I used 3x6 tube, FWIW.
8. If you are cheap (I am) the stock rear brake lines make a great extension for the front with a little union piece in between.
9. If you had bad CV joints before the conversion (really bad) and end up driving around without a shifter boot for a while, the sparks are coming from your CV joints.

Cool cool. I hope your lift gives goes well. If you wonder how I did anything, let me know. It's all still fresh in my mind.

#40 RenaissanceMan

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Posted 10 January 2006 - 03:08 PM

watchout for the camber correction at 6". to get it right you have to do some pounding on the strut towers, and on the driver side I found that when you get the tower where you need it "adjusted" the brake booster no longer clears and cannot be R&R'ed. So anyway your going to have a LITTLE bit of positive camber in order to get everything to fit. (this applies to only the EA81 vehicles btw)

-MIke

#41 scrap487

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Posted 10 January 2006 - 07:06 PM

really? i was gonna have AA make my strup tops, they said they would be within .5 degree of spec. I'll make sure when I call them in a minute to make sure this won't be a problem, thanks.

#42 scrap487

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 12:44 AM

okay got front end bolted together except for the struts, getting the extensions from AA hopefully on friday. a few problems I ran into:

brake line passanger side was a tad short, easy fix by removing bracket off the strut

fuel lines and some vacuum lines required work, had to move/remove brackets holding them in place and rerout a few, and will have to get some longer ones

both rad hoses seem to be good, although lower one looks like its almost about to collapse because its too long.

part of airbox got in the way, the part that sticks out near the heat riser thing. needs trimming to clear rad hose

dont leave your hood open when its raining, I did, went up to take the airbox out and all the water puddle up on top leaked down into the carb as soon as I loosened the screw... hopefully it wasnt enough to cause any problems

your steering shaft may have been long enough, mine sure wasnt.

there was a long narrow rod that stuck out from the firewall that attached to the bellhousing, with bushings on both ends, no apparent reason for it being there but engine got hung up on that... can someone tell me what thats for? it looks like its brass or something.

oh yeah you gotta take off your skid plate and all that mud guard crap underneath the engine :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

more later, pics tomorrow during light

#43 chazmataz

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 01:28 AM

its a stabalizer rod to keep your engine from rocking back and fourth during acceleration/decceleration.

#44 stinky

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 01:29 AM

there was a long narrow rod that stuck out from the firewall that attached to the bellhousing, with bushings on both ends, no apparent reason for it being there but engine got hung up on that... can someone tell me what thats for? it looks like its brass or something.


Sounds like the engine stabiliser? It helps stop the engine from rocking. Definately want it there, may need to extend it.

#45 scrap487

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 02:45 AM

what? really? aren't the motor mounts and tranny mounts supposed to do that? I've never seen that on any other car I've had

#46 chazmataz

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 02:54 AM

all front wheel drive cars have an engine stablizing rod and no the engine and tranny mounts will not stop your motor from rocking back and fourth. if you don't have that stablizer rod hooked up you could tear your motor and tranny mounts the rubber parts into then you won't have any support, which means that your fan will hit your radiator or your motor will rock back and damage other parts of your car.

#47 scrap487

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 02:59 AM

electric fan... I've never owned a true fwd car before... I keep forgetting its fwd when I'm not driving it :lol:

#48 Numbchux

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 01:10 PM

also known as the pitch stopper....it will need to be lengthened. I (somehow) managed to make my stock one work, but that's only 3" at my engine xmember, yours is 6.....you'll need to lengthen it.

#49 nicky nighteyes

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 11:51 PM

i got mine to work with 4", 6" is prob another animal though. YOU DEFINITLY NEED IT THOUGH, also stabilizes the tranny.




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