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Alternator Revisted---Found! Chevy 105 amp alternative


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26 replies to this topic

#1 LostWater

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 09:00 AM

well my alt seems totally dead. Ran out while driving to work, then hatch ran off battery, till that was dead.

I did some looking through old posts and I saw several times a reference to a datsun alternator that can be swapped into our EA series cars without any modification.

Does anybody care to pipe in a let us know what they found out?

Thanks,

Mark

#2 Dennis ex24

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 10:24 AM

mark,

its actually probably the same alternator. in the 80s there was a strong nissan/datsun - subaru parts connection with alot of our cars.

if you ever get a chance see what part number our oil and air filters are then check the same on an 80s 300zx.

#3 All_talk

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 10:25 AM

Hey Mark

I can’t be sure, as I haven’t done a side by side comparison, but the alternator on my ’74 Datsun 260Z looks a lot like the one in my ’87 GL wagon, even the same connectors I believe. I could take a closer look if you like.

Gary

#4 LostWater

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 10:32 AM

Lookie here:

Autozone alt details

It appears that they are only 50-60 amps anyways.

Any datsun truck alternators that could work?

Thanks a bunch,

Mark

#5 ShawnW

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 10:55 AM

Gotta wonder if that 810 Diesel (Maxima) that people were talking about in another post, would have a big one as I think Diesel vehicles tend to have heavy duty items for the glow plug systems. I would also be looking under the hoods of Isuzu vehicles if I was at a junkyard.

The XT6 or early Legacy alternator has to be an easier alternative in terms of what is readily available. The Legacy one is like 75-80 amps and the XT6 is 90 I think. But that isn't IDLE amps so keep that in mind.

#6 ShawnW

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 11:08 AM

Its not the 810/Maxima Diesel its only a 60 amp according to Autozone's site.

#7 LostWater

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 11:15 AM

I read in an earlier post that McBrat said that early legacy alts are in the same casted body as the xt6 and should fit with the same mod that people do the the xt6.

I will prolly go searching for an early legacy alt and do the mod and stick it in. I will also keep me eye out for similarly size/casted alts while I am in the boneyard.

Regards,

Mark

#8 LostWater

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 11:22 AM

Nissan Sentra 1983-84 seem to have been in the same casted body, but a search at autozone shows that they are only 50 amp alts.

So far, early legacy seems to be the easiest available (cheapest too) higher amp alternative.

Any other ideas???

Mark

#9 TROGDOR!

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 12:09 PM

Check some late 80's Mitsubishi's. Since Mitsu made the XT6 alternator, it's a good bet one of their cars would have it.

#10 LostWater

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 12:16 PM

But, this is a brick wall as well.

Late 80's Mitsubishi 4wd trucks used a 50 amp alt!

Anybody tried those one bolt chevy alts by making a bracket or something???

Thanks,

Mark

#11 LostWater

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 12:24 PM

Autozone says that the early legacy alts were only 70 amp, only 15 more than stock ea-81.

Dam, still have to fing an xt6 for a real improvement.

I already called a rebuilder and they said they could not make an ea-81 alt with higher output.

Anybody have an XT6 alt they wanna part with?

Thanks,

Mark

#12 TROGDOR!

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 01:21 PM

Whoomp there it is!
http://cgi.ebay.com/...item=2436755670

This one is only rated at 65 amps though?


1986-1988 Nissan Maxima shows a 90 amp Hitachi/Mitsubishi alternator. While I'm at Advance today I think I'm going to take a look at one.

Here's another worth looking at, from an 86-88 Mazda RX-7. Mitsubishi model, 70 amps.
http://cgi.ebay.com/...item=2435679596

1990 Nissan 300ZX Turbo looks promising as well, it's a 90 amp Mitsubushi as well. But it's SO expensive and even rarer than an XT6!

#13 VaporTrail

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 01:23 PM

I talked with a local electric guy, and he said they could send out an ea81 alt to be rewound for higher output (and diodes to match) but it'd be in the $300-400 range to get it custom done...

he said changing out the diodes only for the higher output would make it have better/more consistent output at the same amperage. need to change the windings to get higher amps...

#14 edrach

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 07:23 PM

If I remember correctly, the XT6 alternator was a 90 amp rated unit. All you need to do is change the serpentine pulley to a v-belt version. Everything else hooked up the same.

#15 LostWater

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 09:41 PM

I went to the back of the farm where I have my mini Subaru Junkyard (2 ea81 wagons, 4wd, 2 ea81 brats, 2 ea81 hatchs 4wd, 1 ea82 wagon fwd) and guess what I found???

in one of the ea-81's someone had made up a bracket to fit a regular old chevy delco-remey alt in. Basically the just drilled a couple of holes in a 1/4 " thick x 3/4 " wide x 2 " long piece of steel. Used two logs bolts for that side with nuts all over the bolts to hold it steady, and another longer bolt.

I am going to get the alt tested tomorrow and take the belt so I can get a new one, and get a piece of all thread so I can tighten it up better.

I will take pics and do the exact measurements and I will write up a submission to the USMB repair manual if it is all successful.

When I bought this parts wagon, I drove it home, so obviously the alt setup worked then!

Woohoo, now, we can get 130 amp alts for $40!!!

Will report more tomorrow and over the weekend.

Mark

#16 JWX

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Posted 09 October 2003 - 10:27 PM

keep us posted on that one. and the datsun alt came off of a 710 truck. might not have been an 710 but it was a mid 80's truck

#17 LostWater

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Posted 10 October 2003 - 07:45 AM

The P.O. had the alt mounted tight in the engine bay, but it was kind of clunky. I plan on getting some 3/8 all thread and double nutting two 4" pieces to make the mounting work.

I won't go into detail, because when I get the pics done, it will describe the process much better.

Again, I will take pics, measurements and part numbers, and I will write up a short submission about this.

This is definitely the schiznitz and requires no modification to the alt (no grinding the ear like what was needed with the xt6)

Will probably be a quicker install, and definitely a cheaper one.

I will be sure to keep everyone posted.

Mark

#18 LostWater

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Posted 10 October 2003 - 07:57 AM

The part number for the alternator to use is: 7127, it is a delco-Remey that fits 71-85 Chevy trucks. Very common, 10 bux in a boneyard, sometimes free.

If you get a bad one, take it to autozone where you can get a rebuilt one fer $29.99 w/ a $15 core.

The stock amps are 63, but with this kit from Jc Whitney you can get 105 amps and the kit is only $34.99 and u can do it yourself.
Higher amp Kit listings

Again, I will follow with mounting details.

Mark

#19 MorganM

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Posted 10 October 2003 - 12:38 PM

This is sounding pretty promesing!! Keep up the good work :)

#20 Meeky Moose

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Posted 10 October 2003 - 12:43 PM

xt6 alt is 90 amp, have one in my hatch, if anyone cares for a picture...:D

#21 TomRhere

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Posted 10 October 2003 - 06:58 PM

Originally posted by LostWater
The part number for the alternator to use is: 7127, it is a delco-Remey that fits 71-85 Chevy trucks. Very common, 10 bux in a boneyard, sometimes free.

If you get a bad one, take it to autozone where you can get a rebuilt one fer $29.99 w/ a $15 core.

The stock amps are 63, but with this kit from Jc Whitney you can get 105 amps and the kit is only $34.99 and u can do it yourself.
Higher amp Kit listings

Again, I will follow with mounting details.

Mark



That altenator was also known as the S-10 model, and no, I'm not talking about the S 10 truck. Was used on most '72 GM products, and all after '73. First internally regulated GM altenator. Have seen them as high as 120 Amps on certain fully loaded models. Think Cadillac, Buick Electra. and 225's, Olds Delta 88's, Pontiac Gran Prix, and Paresienne(sp). A few that I can think of.
I'm looking for one of those myself.
Easiest altenator to mount to any motor requiring a charging system. 2 battery + leads, can be spliced together, and the other lead goes to a push-button type switch. Start the engine, quick push on the button, and it be charging.
Don't need button switch if your car has the "Idiot light". That wire goes to the 2nd terminal.
Really way super easy conversion.........

#22 bushbasher

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Posted 10 October 2003 - 08:28 PM

i have a delta 88 in the back yard (1976), would this likely have it?

#23 TomRhere

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Posted 10 October 2003 - 08:59 PM

Believe so. One battery + connection on the rear, has a nut holding it. Side connector is - -, not | |. If memory serves me right, it should be about 7-8" in diameter. You can tell by looking at the wires, on the side connector, which one goes to battery +, and which one goes to the light(switch). The battery one is heavier gage.


Getting irrated with this key-board. Shift doesn't always work, and it skips letters. GRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

#24 LostWater

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Posted 11 October 2003 - 12:03 AM

Meeky Moose, the reason the alternative in the GM alt is that it is cheap, easily done, and widely available.

In all my travels in Boneyards out here in Southwest VA, I have only seen one XT6 and one RX. Both models are very rare indeed.

Good luck for most of us finding that alternator (XT6).

The GM alt on the other hand is so rediculously available and cheap!

There was a guy in my 360 group who converted the 360 engine from a generator to run on this alt. I have seen this alt in lots of applications.

I ordered the 105 amp kit form JC Whitney and will put those details in my write up as well. I also got a new belt that was the same one that the P.O. had on (needs to be longer than stock). I will be certain to include those details too.

Later,

#25 asavage

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Posted 12 October 2003 - 05:04 PM

I used to perform alternator conversions on old Japanese & British cars, using the Delco alternator model prior to the S10 series.

The older unit was a bit smaller diameter, and could be had up to 63A with the right combination of stator and rotor. And as little as 35A.

For the British cars, these units were especially easy to use for positive ground applications, as their positive and negative diodes are physically the same size, and the mechanical regulators do not care about polarity.

Take 'em apart, press out the diodes from their heatsinks, press them back in the opposite locations, then fab a minor bracket or two for the alternator mounting, determine which lead on the car's harness is for the idiot lamp and fab a harness for the mechanical regulator.

Voila! A cheap, positive-ground alternator that can be serviced anywhere.

I did about a dozen of 'em over the years.

On the S10 series: if you're not going to use an idiot light, use a 10 ohm 1/2w resistor from the lamp terminal on the alternator to a switched hot, to bring the regulator online. It doesn't draw any appreciable current, so you can connect it to any switched hot.

Don't use a doorbell switch on the dash as suggested, it does not drop enough voltage, and the regulator can be damaged.

On the subject of alternator capacity: do you really want or need anywhere near 100A capacity? Unless you plan on arc-welding or are running some huge number of high-draw lamps, 50A is plenty. As Shawn mentioned, the Datsun 6 cyl diesel had a 60A alternator and they work fine -- you can't recharge a battery at 60A anyway, it'll warp the plates.

(BTW: the Maxima diesel alternator is designed to accomodate a vane-type vacuum pump on the back, so the output shaft runs through the alternator. Like my '59 Eldo/Seville's generator did, to run the onboard vee-twin air compressor for the Air Ride Suspension. Yup, GM had full Air Suspension -- no coil springs at all -- from '58-61.)




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