I just tried the following and it worked.
Disclaimer: The procedure, as tested, applies to axles that are held with a roll pin to the differential output stub shaft. I don't know if there will be sufficient room to perform it with pin-less axles, but there's always hope.
Axle removal procedure:
Wheels pointing straight, front end lifted and safely supported, axle nut & roll pin removed.
Disconnect sway bar link from the control arm (12 mm head, M8 bolt and nut), and the control arm from the cross-member at the forward mount (17 mm head, M12).
Under the hood: if working on the right side, disconnect air intake duct and move it out of the way so that there is a clear view of the inner CV joint (DOJ) housing. Disconnect PCV/vacuum hoses to move the duct, as needed. Stuff something into the throttle body.
If working on the left side, you may need to move the washer bottle. My hands-on experience, as of this writing, is only with the RH axle.
Hook one end of a bungee cord to the axle shaft near the DOJ, and the other end to a suitable hole in the hood reinforcement, somewhere near the top. The idea is to support the weight of the axle shaft after it is disconnected from the stub. Depending on the length and stiffness of the cords available to you, you may need to find a right combination by connecting them in sequence and/or in parallel.
The key step: Pulling the knuckle outwards, slide the DOJ off the stub shaft and direct it upwards and to the rear, to the area where the front differential housing tapers down towards the transmission (MT or AT). The cord[s] should be adjusted to hold the shaft in that position. This, together with the unbolted control arm, provides enough clearance to slide the other end of the axle out of the wheel hub. Done.
Installation is reverse.
As always, remember to load the suspension with the car's weight before fully torquing the control arm and the sway bar link.
Edited by avk, 03 September 2012 - 02:16 PM.