MilesFox Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 I got my 87 gl-10 turbo motor installed and hooked up. now for all of you who remembers my cracked head post, they hold about 110 psi, the car will start idle and run! but sometimes it wont start for nothing. i got this "custom intake" using pieces of turbo and spfi piping, with the MAF above the turbo plenum and a big ol cone filter like "BLAM!" sticking out of the hood with a hood scoop behind it, looks like a JET ENGINE on the hood! anyway, i taped upt he fitting with better tape, starts a little easier. but halfway thru the rpm range it acts like its not getting fuel, it makes cackling sounds at the exhaust. when driving, you can put the gas in a little, shift way soon, and it will pull, but if you get the rpm u, or open the throttle enough, she loses power right away. i had an spfi fuel pump on there to begin with, but now i have a turbo pump. the pumps were so rusty that they leaked, i tried to weld one, still leaked, so i tore the damper off of it and connected the hose directly to the fitting. the distributor appears to be in the right spot, lined up with 0deg and #1, and you can see the "bare spot" where the bolt goes is lined up. timeing belts are in line, i know this because they were off when the motor went in the car. i connected the wastegate and boost lines up to where they go, but htat dont make a difference. it seems that its intermittents, the car will pull, and then crap out, but hasnt ran like it is supposed to yet. it seems to start and run better when cold, its next to impossible to start when warm, you will crank and crank, the motor sounds like it s running until you let of the starter, or it will rev up to 2000 rpm than cut out, and if it sounds like its firing, it stops when you put the gas down? who has any ideas? I got a spare intake that i was considering swapping, for fuel pressure regulator and throttle body's sake....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondasucks Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 Check your ignition coil, we had a car at school that would run and idle fine, but as soon as you got it above about 2500 RPM it would fall on its face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 14, 2003 Author Share Posted October 14, 2003 the coil is fine. let me make the point that this car has seen the last 800 miles or so with an spfi motor and carb, with the same coil. but, however, it was doing similarly with the carb when i first got IT running, come to find out the dist was way off, but not a tooth off. but i found this out after putting the THIRD carb on it (the other 2 were most likely bad) but i think it has to do with fuel, myself, but a timing light could be very useful!!!! do these symptoms sound like the problem of something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 I had similar warm start problems and intermittent "cutting out" when my ingnition module in the disty went kaput.. I swapped the disty out and all problems have gone away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meeky Moose Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 sounds like a vacuum line to me, there is a line that goes into teh air intake tube.. forget where the other end goes.. but i popped that off once on my turbo wagon and it would run the same way.. not rev above 3500 but at low rpms it was fine.. but when the turbo would spool i'd get about 1psi of boost then it would dog out and not run.. sorta acted like a plugged cat would... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 Computer maybe? SPFI to Carb to Turbo, have you changed out the computer each time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skeet Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 Voodoo. I made a TrashWagon doll out of an old RC Car and chopped up beer cans (it even plays the Sonic theme). I've been stabbing the turbo unit with vials of urine for DAYS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted October 15, 2003 Share Posted October 15, 2003 HAHAHA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 15, 2003 Author Share Posted October 15, 2003 Originally posted by Qman Computer maybe? SPFI to Carb to Turbo, have you changed out the computer each time? all the original mpfi was left alone. the only thing from the car that was hooked up was the coil, and that was to the 2 wires from an 86 distributor, installed on an spfi BLOCK, with a CARB on the intake. the turbo motor was put together from being in the back of the car with both blown head gaskets when i got the car. I tell you what, she runs like a scalded dog, will squal first just putting it down after she's rollin' i replaced the fuel pressure regulator, the throttle position switch, and that solenoid on the throttle body, all from an intake that came off a car that i knew ran. (the intake had the old bolts stuck in them, otherwise i would have used it to begin with!) after i replaced these components, she ran real good, parked the car, then got her to start later, but was hard to start, and it wanted to cut out at 2500-3000 rpm i found what appeared to me to be a thermo switch near the turbo, it has a plug on it like a fuel injector, but the one that was on had funnt un-stock wiring, so i replaced it with the one from the spare intake, and its wire. i figure it is for the mpfi computer, because the one on the water neck should be the temp sensor for the gauges. so i know the car will run like its supposed to. but it is near impossible to start when warm, and it dooks out at 2500 rpms and such. i checked the auxiliary air valve, it is closed with the engine warm. the rubber hose that goes from it to the manifold, i will pinch that and give it a rev, and it wants to bloat a little from boost. i did the same thing to the RX(which runs fine), and the rx does the same thing. so i would surmise the thing is working like its supposed to. i need a stupid volt meter to test the components according to the haynes manual, but i need one first. the clip for the aav does get voltage with the motor running, as i jumped a wire on the terminals and got sparks. the motor wanted to cut out during the spark, but i pulled the wire off right away, she kept idling. if i were to get her started while warm, she will idle all day, but cut out when you open her up. the inlet i fabbed up has 3 holes for the pcv lines, wheras a stock inlet has one on the inside of the motor, and a vapor can hole on the other side. my fabbed goes to the middle of the car, its made from the 2 turbo sides of the turbo inlet, a turbo plenum rubber hose(turbo side hose), vinyl tape, and a hose clap holding on the top of an spfi inlet, with the maf to it. the first turpb inlet piece has a pcv line on it from the passenger cam cover, the hole on the spfi unit is connected to the crank case vent, and the third hole is connected to the T that is to the tight of the throttle body, that comes from the right side of the bottom of the intake, and connects the ilet system to that T, and also the driver side cam cover. i know the stock system draws all the pcv vapors into the inlet, but thru one hole, and not 3. so having 3 holes, will that decrease the air flow across the MAF? i may disconnect all of them, except for the vent on top of the block, having only one hole used. it does seem to be a vacuum or lean condition to me, definately fuel starvation, bu thter is no visible leaks. i had a budy pull the brake booster hose, and it ran more dookey in the same manner with it off, so i surmise it HAS to be vacuum/lean/or inlet tube leak before the maf. but it does run way better than she first did, just got to get around the warm start issue. so far when i start it when cold, she runs fine until i turn her off, but i havent driven it more than a few minutes from a cold start. even though running fine after a cold start, she still cuts out at 4500 rpm, it may be the fuel cut off, i disconnected all that jazz vacuum lines from the turbo, and made the hose go from the turbo to the wastegate (like on the 86 xt) maybe the thermo switch is still bad? what can you guys tell me, this IS my first turbo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 16, 2003 Author Share Posted October 16, 2003 she still rund good cold, but last night we went for a cruise, and performance dropped off as she got warm. i let danny drive, he stalled it, so we had to wait almost an hour before she would cool off enough to start. i ran the trouble codes, it came up with code 33, 34, 42, and 51 the speedo works, one of them is the (idle Switch) but i replaced the TPS 42 i think is egr valve and 51 i cant remember off hand. i did another round and got code 22 but i probably should clear the codes too, because it has ben running around with a carb motor! so i shoild reset them and try again and see what it says. i am thinking it is the therm switch by the turbo. i will see if i can get a volt meter today. so what do we know thus far? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 16, 2003 Author Share Posted October 16, 2003 i also blocked off all those pcv hoses and no difference. its too annoying! i am going to get my license back (hopefully) today, and i want to drive MY SOOB, MY SOOB, MY SOOB. let's hear it, someone should know. *screaming like the arby's oven mitt*AAUUGGHH!!! i need a voltmeter!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 16, 2003 Author Share Posted October 16, 2003 so i got a voltmeter. the temo switch is supposed to read around 700-1000 ohms when warm, but reads about 450. the reference voltage is supposed to be 5 volts, but reads about 3.6 and the tps.. its supposed to read 5 volte wide open, and .5 volts closed. but it seems to read backward, 4.5 volts closed and .07 closed. and now the coil goes out. it was some sort of napa coil, i got a replace ment nippondenso that reads the right resistances.. the old coil was open on the secondary winding. i got a spare turbo disty,(optical type) the haynes book doesnt tell squat about them, i need to fix the plug on it to work. so WTF? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted October 16, 2003 Share Posted October 16, 2003 i got a spare turbo disty,(optical type) the haynes book doesnt tell squat about them, i need to fix the plug on it to work. If the one in the car is also the optical type, you can swap them easily, turbo dist or not. flip the dist over and look at where the wiring goes into the housing.. there are 2 screws there.. unscrew them and the whole wiring pigtail can unplug.. then slap the right pigtail in there and you're good to go.. just had to do this a couple of weeks ago for very similar problems to what you are experiencing... including the long wait for restart. took ten minutes to do the swap and all problems went away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 16, 2003 Author Share Posted October 16, 2003 i considered having them apart to test the components, but the haynes manual is worthless in this department "as mentioned in chapter 11, but may have to look in chapter 4" and how would a distributor be descrobed in the "body" chapter*stupid haynes) what should i check for on these (volts, ohms) swapping the whole wire is a good idea. i had an spfi dist apert, so i know what to i'll be getting into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted October 16, 2003 Share Posted October 16, 2003 I'm not sure about testing values.. the FSM has very little info about it.. doesn't even show a blowup of the disty.. just swap pigtails and pop the new disty in there.. you will know soon enough if it helps your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 16, 2003 Author Share Posted October 16, 2003 ok, i'll do that. so what would cause a wrong reference voltage right off the ecu. would that be the ecu itself? i have no idea of what condition this car was in before i got it. the motor was inthe trunk! all i know is its put together properly and doesnt leak!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myossfeece Posted October 19, 2003 Share Posted October 19, 2003 HEY DUTWEILLER what's up? you still havin turbo troubles? Don't noone on the board know anything? N E Ways this so called Rx killer you're building is runnin all fyostey-like. You know when we race your getting wasted and the only thing on the RX you will see is my expired plated geting smaller and smaller in front of you. HA HA it's all ****z-n-giggles. The real RX killer and you put it would the pimpest off roading motor nyup in my opinion, a 4 cylinder turbo diesel bolted to an ea series d\r. WHAT? WHAT? No limit to boost on a deisel that's pimp. N E Ways I will stop nyup-over your hizzou to help troubleshoot a gl10 turbo wagon. c-ya when I c-ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarubrat Posted October 19, 2003 Share Posted October 19, 2003 In addition to the disty check those plug wires and even replace them with new ones or swap over a known good set. My 300+ HP Impreza started doing exactly what you are describing. After lots of complicated trouble shooting and mixed results I was pulling the ignition coil pack to install a known good one and I discovered the terminals were corroded, something I had dismissed out of hand as being too simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 19, 2003 Author Share Posted October 19, 2003 i suspect it could be the little nougat on the coil bracket: jim has some spare parts for me to use, maybe i should swap out the ecu,fom an 87 turbo. the thing that gets me is the reference voltage for the tthermo sensor: its supposed to be 5 volts, but id 3.6, and its 3.6 right off the ecu. i have a coil that i know is good, and my pick of 3 distributors. hopefully i get this thing too run right. its ironic my car dooks on me the day before i got my license back! (yup, i'm legal, the car is insured and plated, too!!!) Yo Yo Yo! What it is, mutherfyorker! Myoss Feece! my fecal brother! lets take a slo-cruise in lo-range in the rx, and twist an axle if you know them ebonics i be spewin'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forkspear Posted October 20, 2003 Share Posted October 20, 2003 I changed the motor in my rx yesterday and when I took it for drive it did the exact same thing you described. It turned out i forgot to plug in my mass air flow sensor. I plugged it in and it runs great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 20, 2003 Author Share Posted October 20, 2003 well maybe it has to do with a taped up inlet i got. i pucked up some turbo goodies yesterday, and i am gonna use the stock inlet(now that i just got one) to get it running first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myossfeece Posted October 20, 2003 Share Posted October 20, 2003 I think it will make all the difference once you swap the stock intake back on to it and replace that AAI sensor. let's be sharp. keep our eyes open because how many times we build something up and get it all put together and runnin to realize we overloked something stupid and it could be messin everything up, causing us to troubleshoot in the wrong area. ie 88 sedan cam-pulley incedent after conversion. ground wires unhooked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 20, 2003 Author Share Posted October 20, 2003 i think it will have to do with the coil/ignition system, and the wrong voltage signal to the thermo switch, only dookin out when warm. once she gets running, the custom intake is going back on. we towed it to the gas station woth the RX. Myoss Feece tows me thru the mayor yard, and all i can do is follow. i managed to clip a trash can en-tow who else would go thru such measures to put gas in a car that doesnt run! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1ABAJA Posted October 20, 2003 Share Posted October 20, 2003 Boys, stay the heck out of the mayor's yard... he is going to be bringing the heat down on us!....Soobville (Butler) residents can only take so many Subaru rutts in their yards! Go tear up the city's yard next to the carbola or the soccer field south of town, not the mayor's yard! Be saving your flow for the XT! I called the owner of that Subaru that starts with a "P"...I talked with the wife, she didn't know which model it was either. (Duh!) Josh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camot Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 Was the car originally a turbo? If not you need turbo injectors and a turbo ECU. It sounds like you are maxing out the injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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