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hey substers building 6" lift
Posted 14 October 2003 - 06:26 PM
Posted 14 October 2003 - 08:33 PM
Posted 14 October 2003 - 08:33 PM
Myself, Scott, and Hassey have 6inch lifts on brats that I know of.. and a couple more out there.
post some questions here, and we will answer them.
talk to you soon.
Posted 14 October 2003 - 08:41 PM
Posted 14 October 2003 - 08:57 PM
cut the 2x6 tubing into 14 pieces 2x2x6 theres 10 in the front (5 on each side) and 4 in the rear (2 on each side)
I'm going to i'm going to be real general with the idea that you have some idea of what needs to be done
you will need 14 nuts and bolts same size as the ones all ready in the
raise the car up at least 2 ft lower tranny/engine enough to fit block in place use original bolts for the top and new nuts/bolts for bottom
use 2x2 tubing and cut to fit between all the 2x2x6 blocks and weld them in place Yes even concet the front to the rear
when done you will have a frame that concets all the block all the way around the car.
a subframe sorta speak
the rear bow, the shock mounts, the engine suport, the stering linkage the strut towers shifter linkage all need to be extended. With the shifter you will find new words that you did not know and maybe put a couple of dent in the car, or have to go and find that wrench you threw, I say this because I wanted mine to look oringinal on the in side so when you look inside you can't tell,
but it can be done
this won't be a week end job at best your looking at 3 weeks
unless you have nothing but time on your hands then thats a different story
Posted 14 October 2003 - 09:06 PM
Posted 14 October 2003 - 09:54 PM
Originally posted by bushbasher
you can't buy a 6" lift anyways, and to me at least, R&D is half the fun.
Only true at the moment. Early next year I'm going to be pulling my body off my frame, then strip all the suspension off it for painting (real automotive paint), while I have it I'm going to be making a jig from it. So sometime next summer I'm going to have the jig all made up and can make up the 6" lift to order for anyone that wants one, and doesn't have the time or knowhow to make up one them selves.
Posted 14 October 2003 - 10:54 PM
All I used for a jig was the front end of a hatch mid door forward strip down to nothing but the 10 holes.
In your offer to make thses 6" lifts Does that include all the welding of the blocks and all the linkage being extended?
how do you plan on shipping the welded frame when done and what are you going to include? just curious and asking thats all.
I was thinking about doing the same thing a long long time ago but knowing what is involed I would have to charge close to $1500.00 a lift plus shipping and there no one on this board would pay that, but that would have included the lift all welded together so it would have a rectragle frame all the bolts, the shifter linkage, the HI/LO linkage, the stering, the engine suport, the strut towers, the shock mounts, the hubs for 6 lugs the bow for the rear end.
Posted 15 October 2003 - 04:31 PM
Posted 15 October 2003 - 06:18 PM
I could not tell you how to lift a EA82
Posted 15 October 2003 - 07:14 PM
Posted 15 October 2003 - 09:27 PM
Posted 15 October 2003 - 10:05 PM
Posted 15 October 2003 - 10:34 PM
Posted 15 October 2003 - 11:26 PM
I'm unsure of the degree you will get with a 4 inch lift at that point you might see if you can purchise strut towers for a 4 inch lift from PK davis that part would be easier. the steering Knukle came from a 95 Legacy cause it double jointed at both end so when you cut it in half and weld the splice in it will turn smoothly with out binding.
I appresiate your input but my Brat is VERY ridged the way it was built theres 14 places that are needed for an ea81 lift. Be it a 4" lift or a 6" lift and with all blocks in place and welded together with 2x2 tubing you have a solid frame all the way around under the brat on all 4 sides and by using 28 bolts you get that much more strenght.
instead of useing 14 5" long bolts on individual block that aren't conected now that would have the tendecy to rock
I had this lift this way going on 8 to 9 yrs now and I have never thrown a lug broke weld or tweaked the frame. or have the Brat rock or move on the lift.
Oh and I'll add one more input theres are atleast 2 board members that have coppied my design idea with absolutly no problems
again thanks for your concern and input
Posted 16 October 2003 - 05:48 PM
Posted 16 October 2003 - 07:46 PM
You will have to check pkdavis profile and get e-mail i do not have it or maybe some one here will post it
the cost could not tell you and won't even guess that will be between you and pk davis if he will sell pieces of a four inch lift
You know if you changed your mind and are going with a 4" lift you may as well buy it complet from PK Davis
Posted 16 October 2003 - 11:12 PM
Again let me preface that I'm not suggesting your lift is a poor design. I was just interjecting my own thoughts on the threads topic. I called it the Hassey lift because I think most of us have seen pictures of your rig and it was the simplest label. Perhaps it would have been better to call it "Multiple Segmented Body Lift" type design.
To clarify I'm not suggesting a variation on the BYB individual block design, but rather a variation on your subframe. The idea is essentially just like a regular truck frame comprised of two 2x2 rails. To this you weld individual sections of 2X2 channel. The long bolts go all the way through. The reason I like this idea is that you have a minimum number of welds in your frame rails and it's much easier to plate the joints with flat steel stock this way. As far as the bolts go I think 14 or 28 is moot because every intersection in either design is going to have shear at right angles to the shaft applied at the intersection of the two parts. I don't think it matters whether the two forces are applied to one bolt or two since they are applied in different places. This is for a 4" lift. For bigger lifts I'd want to use seperate bolts top and bottom. Heres a couple of cheasy MSPaint drawings to show what I was talking about. The arrows represent forces under braking etc. The red spray paint represents welds. Imagine those arrows as sledgehammer blows to the lift blocks and you'll see which will give first. Of course thats for front to back forces. In side to side yours is stronger.
Posted 17 October 2003 - 01:20 AM
For those that are embarking on their own lifts, I have taken a pic of my autocad drawing for everyone to see, makes things a little clearer as to what you need to do. It doesn't have the front to rear runners in there, I left those out due to the differences between the hatches and others. Here is the pic, it's pretty big, so I'm linking it.
Posted 17 October 2003 - 09:03 AM
It's nice to see that you remembered the lift on my brat just a couple things you missed.
Counting the blocks from front to rear === there is a 5th block on the inside in between blocks 3-4 ----------------^
The double tubing on each side in the rear is a little over kill if you remember I have one in the center conecting both sides.
And theres a 22" piece of 2x2 tubing coming straight off block
=== just under bumper and conected to the other side with a 36" piece of 2x2 tubing so that I have a complte sub fram all the way around the brat (that is the frame is sold on all 4 sides)
Everyone this lift idea did come straight off from my Brat and I've been running this lift for 8 to 9 yrs now. And I ran a web site on how to build this for 4 yrs I have sence took it down. It's a lot of hard work but then again it's not brain sugery either
Posted 17 October 2003 - 09:34 AM
Posted 17 October 2003 - 01:14 PM
Posted 17 October 2003 - 02:45 PM
Posted 17 October 2003 - 06:25 PM
You lowered the suspension without droping the motor/tranny the same amount? When I look at my ea-82 I see that at rest the DOJ and CV centerlines are offset about 2". I just twisted a DOJ to full lock on my kitchen table and it allows about 8" offset total(but the cv has more room to play). If you lifted a ea-82 6" and kept the tranny in the same relative position to the body as stock you'd be running the axle right around full lock all the time. Anyway I'm assuming that ea-81 and ea-82 axles are similar. Do the DOJs and CVs hold up for you? Is the travel in/out on the DOJ sufficient?
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