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Prepping for deep water


Scott in Bellingham
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I had this Idea on the disty , you know those boat trailer taillights, they are like a drinking glass turned upsidown with all the wiring up inside , well what if I did that with the disty put a container over it with all the wires coming out the bottom , even semi seal it, could even run a little air presure into it from a compressor or a fan, that way water couldnt get to it and if it wanted to the positive presure would keep it away . another concern will all the sensors work under water? Im not even sure what sensors are even used and where they are

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I didn't see it posted so I'll ask, what about your seats and such? I had/have major mold issues from the last time the interior was full of water. It was such a pita to dry everything out I will probly not do any major water crossings until the car gets a complete removal of all interior carpet and sound padding, maybe seat removal too.

 

Just wonderin'

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Bog water perfume is pretty much impossible to remove from carpets and upholstry. After my first swamping, I yanked out the carpets, removed the tar mats, hosed it out with water and bleach, and dryed it thoughly. I then hammered the front floorboards down a bit so future muck would drain down to holes better. Then I applied undercoating and truck bed liner and instead of carpet I went with vinyl mats from an early Hatchback. It's noisier inside but much easier to deal with getting the water out.

 

That hole Austin stalled his blue wagon in, a year or so earlier I was out wheelin' by myself in and stalled my car in the same spot but it was a little deeper at the time. I'll tell ya', the waves make an eery sound lapping up agaist the car almost up to the window. In a panic I figured I could "key it" to get myself out. But to my amazement the car actaully started even with the tailpipe summerged. Couldn't believe it, never felt so lucky. The door seals leaked a bit, but the water was gushing in through holes in the unibody into the back seat area. So if you're waterproofing, don't forget all those holes and crevices in the body.

 

I was back out to there East of Black Diamond again three weekends ago and the trails were great and lots of water! (Found new trails nearby too!) Anyways, that day I learned that if you take the drain plugs out, it's good to remember to put them back in again before going swimming. Cook with a space heater on medium heat for one to two weeks in a garage. Serve warm.

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oh yea, all the carpet is torn out of both of my wagons....

 

I like your concept of the container over the disty, but it would have to have a pretty small and low opening to combat the water effectivly. I've had problems (with a brand new OEM subaru disty gasket) in water not nearly deep enough to actually submerge the disty, but just splash up on to it.

 

however you decide to do it, bring some paper towels/kleenex in a plastic bag so you cna dry things out. and if you're not getting any spark from the coil, it could be the crank angle sensor in the bottom of the disty, if you get really mucky water in there it'll gum up the sensor and you won't get any spark at all. That turned out to be my problem up at iron range offroad...

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Okay, i hope this isn't to dumb of a question but i haven't seen it posted here yet. i read in other web sites about waterproofing for stream fording and they talk about venting all your breathers. so are guys doing something to your tranny dipstick and breather, diff breathers and what about the oil fill tube, dip stick and such for the engine, i do realize that the engine oil fill tube has a rubber seal under it but is it enough???

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Okay, i hope this isn't to dumb of a question but i haven't seen it posted here yet. i read in other web sites about waterproofing for stream fording and they talk about venting all your breathers. so are guys doing something to your tranny dipstick and breather, diff breathers and what about the oil fill tube, dip stick and such for the engine, i do realize that the engine oil fill tube has a rubber seal under it but is it enough???

 

I've never had any trouble with either, but I always look after muddin, and the top of the dipstick is dry. and I've got my dif breather extended up into the spare tire well

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I've never had any trouble with either, but I always look after muddin, and the top of the dipstick is dry. and I've got my dif breather extended up into the spare tire well

 

never had any problem muddin either but was mainly checking to see what everyone else is doing that go into the deep water such as stream crossings and big holes, other then the usual stuff that gets mentioned on here.

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Here's some ideas just to keep you thinking:

 

I had a 67 Kaiser Military M715 pickup which was set up for deep water fording up to 5 feet deep and this is what it had:

 

Snorkels were fitted to the intake and the exhaust.

 

All the wiring connections were covered by tight fitting rubber boots. This also included all the dash instruments, ignition, light and turn signal switches.

 

The taillight and turn signal housings were gasketed and sealed tight.

 

The distributor was sealed tight, but had an air vent which was plumbed into the intake snorkel. The mechanical fuelpump was also vented to the snorkel as was the vents on the master cylinder and fuel tank.

 

This particular truck did not usually have a heater, but I'm guessing those that were fitted with military heaters, had a sealed heater fan motor.

 

The sparkplug cables were all special sealed jacketed type with screw on fittings on each end which screwed on to the plugs and to the distributer.

 

The fan belt was loosened prior to fording so the fan would slip and not churn up the water.

 

The hole in the bottom of the bellhousing normally was open to allow drainage, but had a plug which was to be inserted prior to fording and then removed afterwards to allow draining.

 

All the gearboxes, differentials, transfercase, transmission, and bellhousing had long vent hoses which were all plumbed together and routed back to the engine compartment where they were connected to a valve which also connected to the engine crankcase. During normal use they all vented to the atmosphere through the intake snorkel, but when fording, the valve was turned and they connected to the engine crankcase so that the positive pressure from the crankcase provided enough pressure to each gearbox to prevent any water or dirt from entering in.

 

The cab was not sealed tight, so when fording water, the driver usually sat in the water which seemed to come up to the same level as the water outside. The floor and door panels had no insulation, upolstery or anything which would soak up water. The seat cushions were easliy removable and would need to be dried out later out after a ford.

 

Sounds like a lot of work if you were to add every one of these features to a civilian vehicle.

 

Rollie

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^^overkill....

 

this does remind me, however, that when you're in the water, don't, if you can possibly avoid it, push in the clutch. if you're in deep enough water, and you push in the clutch, water can get between the plate and flywheel.....even if the engine's running, you're not coming out!

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The deepest I've had my Sube is about halfway up the doors. I drove it to an island in the middle of the East Fork of the Bear River. No water came in the cab, so the weatherstrip was good. One thing I do on the distributor in addition to dielectric grease on the boots is to put a little line of grease on the bottom of the cap before I install it. I think it helps keep water out.

 

On the downside, I think that trip ruined my catalytic convertor, as I had been running some trails before I went fording. I'd make sure the convertor has time to cool down before you go in.

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I have alot of buddys out here with alot of experience with deep water and they say the greese can do good on the disty but they also talk about Greese + Pantyhose + WD40 on the Disty and the rag deal i heard as well. then a snokel would make a good difference too

 

 

whats thr detail on these materials, hows it all work

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