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ej22 swap question (what radiator should I use) also help on the legacy parts list


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23 replies to this topic

#1 AKIRA

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Posted 25 February 2006 - 03:16 PM

its going to get put into a brat

I found a subaru dealership that is willing to give me what I want for a reasonable price, now i have to make a list of what I want from the legacy.

i know I need the wiring harness, engine computer, y-pipe and engine, but thats where I run into a block, all I can think of saying engine and underhood parts-wise is "the engine with everything on it and everything nessiciary to make it run"

is there a better way to say it?

also: has anyone used the stock ea81 radiator? is it adaquate for the ej22 engine?

#2 ShawnW

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Posted 25 February 2006 - 04:13 PM

Ignitor, ECU, MAF, entire intake manifold with the air snorkel and air box, Alternator with both the AC and PS brackets (and their pumps if you have these acc and want them), ECU, and all the wiring under the dash and in the engine compartment.

Not sure on the radiator I want to know the same thing. Ive done the Vanagon conversion and helped with an ea82 GL conversion but want to know for my 83 conversion. Id also like to know which radiator fan setups have worked in the past.

Shameless plug, see my wiring harness conversion post in vendor area... :)

#3 AKIRA

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Posted 25 February 2006 - 04:53 PM

thanks for the help.

sorry, I can't afford the $200 for your harness. I will do it myself with kennedy engineerings paper.

anyone else know about the radiator?

#4 suberdave

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Posted 26 February 2006 - 11:29 AM

i would not use the EA radiator on an EJ engine. i used a WRX radiator on my EJ20G swap. took a little work to get it into the stock location, but well worth it.
i have always had overheating problems with my EA engines, (even with brand new 2 core radiators) when pulling a long hill or something.
with the EJ radiator i have never seen the gauge go over half way. and i have put it under many heavy loads and worked it hard.

i say spend the time and fit the EJ radiator to the EJ engine. this will be the best for dependability and reliability.

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#5 ballitch

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Posted 26 February 2006 - 02:32 PM

and on theother end of the spectrum.....i havent ever had an overheating problem with my EJ conversion, but keep in mind suberdave has a turbo under his hood, i dont. if going EJ motor with turbo, use EJ radiator, if using EJ motor w/o turbo, you CAN use the EA radiator, but you might want to use two fans instead of just one.


~Josh~

#6 NoahDL88

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Posted 26 February 2006 - 02:39 PM

I've only got 1 fan on my EJ swap with the EA rad, i'm definately gonna need to get a second fan, maybe even the EJ radiator before summer, as even in the winter, she likes to get hot on long uphills with the wheels churnin the white stuff.

#7 AKIRA

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Posted 26 February 2006 - 04:51 PM

ok, my brat has 2 fans on the radiator already. I will buy the ej radiator and fit it to my brat if it runs into problems with cooling.

#8 AKIRA

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Posted 26 February 2006 - 05:50 PM

another question, who makes the adaptor kits?

i have messaged 88hatchmonster, and mudrat79 about their kits.

i read that "aa" makes the kit as well, but there is no user listed that has that name.

#9 Matty B

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Posted 26 February 2006 - 06:05 PM

EJ22 in '86 Wonder Bruby (BRAT),
used the original radiator, got bigger nipples soldered on.
No problems since, one fan kicks in when idleing at traffic lights for 20 minutes.

#10 ballitch

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Posted 26 February 2006 - 08:41 PM

the AA guy's name is shadyirishmen, look for him.


~Josh~

#11 Numbchux

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Posted 26 February 2006 - 09:21 PM

or just go to www.alliedarmament.com

they're just reselling 88hatchmonsters. or acting as a middle man of sorts.

#12 AKIRA

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Posted 03 March 2006 - 07:30 PM

Allright, I just got back from picking up my engine and transmission.

another question, how hard is it to drill out the ea82 flywheel holes yourself? does it center itself?

#13 88HatchMonster

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Posted 03 March 2006 - 07:41 PM

Allright, I just got back from picking up my engine and transmission.

another question, how hard is it to drill out the ea82 flywheel holes yourself? does it center itself?


Yes it centers itself.

It's hard to screw it up. You can't really "drill" them though. You have to mill them out will a dremel tool or die grinder. You will see how they have to go when you compare the two flywheels.

Even though I weld the old holes in and redrill them myself, I totally encourage people to do it themselves with a grinder if they are so inclined. The flywheel centers itself on a locating collar on the crankshaft. You can have some ugly-rump roast oval holes and it will still work just fine.

#14 AKIRA

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Posted 04 March 2006 - 01:11 PM

ok, I posted that before I read your pm, sorry.

#15 88HatchMonster

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Posted 04 March 2006 - 01:14 PM

ok, I posted that before I read your pm, sorry.


No prob, doesn't hurt for everyone else to hear it. :)

#16 Numbchux

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Posted 04 March 2006 - 01:47 PM

what about balancing? I would be a little nervous about hand modifying something that heavy that spins that fast. seems to me that a slight screw-up in balancing could shake your engine to pieces

#17 88HatchMonster

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Posted 04 March 2006 - 02:49 PM

what about balancing? I would be a little nervous about hand modifying something that heavy that spins that fast. seems to me that a slight screw-up in balancing could shake your engine to pieces


I've checked with several machine shops about this and they've all said that with a self-centering flywheel like this balancing would not be necessary.

If you think about it, the proportional change in balance is very low when you are machining so close to the center of the flywheel (like where it bolts up).

#18 Brumby Boy

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Posted 04 March 2006 - 05:53 PM

I've checked with several machine shops about this and they've all said that with a self-centering flywheel like this balancing would not be necessary.

If you think about it, the proportional change in balance is very low when you are machining so close to the center of the flywheel (like where it bolts up).


yeah if it was out near the ring gear it would be a different story.

#19 AKIRA

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Posted 09 March 2006 - 05:33 PM

ok, some new questions.

what diameter are the "nipples" on the legacy radiator? I am going to take my brat's radiator to be boiled out & cleaned, I might as well get it modified like matty B while I am at it.

also, what did you guys do with the power steering pump? since my brat doesn't have power steering, I don't need it, but the stock belt won't fit without it. were you able to find a belt that fits properly without the pump, or did you leave the pump there?

also if you used the pump, the pump is lubricated by power steering fluid right? so I would have to hook the pump's out into the in and let it just cycle like that?

#20 Snowman

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Posted 09 March 2006 - 10:47 PM

You can easily delete the power steering pump. The proper belt to just run the alternator is the shortest one they sell with the proper number of grooves.

Austin used the EA81 radiator and didn't seem to have any trouble. Keep in mind that many claim the EA81 rad is superior to the EA82 one (which is inadequate for the stock engine, let alone a larger one).

BTW: If you do go with the EJ rad, the one for a 90-92 Legacy fits with much less modification than the one for 93-94. The mounting is different, and the earlier one is very similar to the EA cars, whereas the later one is not.

Suberdave, could you get some more pics of your rad install? That looks like it fits in there a lot better than what I've got right now.

#21 Matty B

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Posted 09 March 2006 - 11:27 PM

ok, some new questions.

what diameter are the "nipples" on the legacy radiator? I am going to take my brat's radiator to be boiled out & cleaned, I might as well get it modified like matty B while I am at it.

also, what did you guys do with the power steering pump? since my brat doesn't have power steering, I don't need it, but the stock belt won't fit without it. were you able to find a belt that fits properly without the pump, or did you leave the pump there?

also if you used the pump, the pump is lubricated by power steering fluid right? so I would have to hook the pump's out into the in and let it just cycle like that?


Rip that power steering crap off, its sucking your horsepower.
Go with the same sized nipples at you have on your water pump and top hose nipples on the motor,

Take good note of the angles of the engine nipples and have the radiator shop try to ease the number of bends needed by angling your new nipples.

#22 ballitch

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Posted 10 March 2006 - 01:16 AM

regarding the correct belt length, i already did your work for you, before i went to power steering(which is awesome BTW) the NAPA # is 050280, its the right size, but you have to remove a little (1/4'') of metal from the slot in the alternator bracket. your alternator slides up and down to loosen or tighten the belt, you have to slot upwards to get the belt to proper tension. the belt dimensoins are 11/16'' X 28 5/8'' or 18mm X 725 mm.

~Josh~

#23 AKIRA

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Posted 10 March 2006 - 01:52 PM

thank you

#24 Matty B

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Posted 10 March 2006 - 06:32 PM

Good luck with it mate, You will be very pleased.




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