Short version: Is it plausible that I fried my new clutch on a 91 Loyale by not tightening the hill holder/clutch return cable sufficiently after installation? If so, why did it fry out only after I adjusted it "properly" according to Hayes, and not right away? OR, is something else wrong with this sucker that I'm not thinking of, and will it just fry out the next disk I put in there?
... but when I got in there yesterday, THE CLUTCH WAS FINE! Ooops. The clutch showed just (barely) a smidgin of wear, no oil on it, and the machining marks on the pressure plate and flywheel were fine, and no sign of overheating or anything. There's no reason to suspect the transmission (I hope) as the fluid level was right, and it worked fine before I replaced the clutch. I took the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel to Baxter Auto Parts' machine shop, and the guy measured the specs: 820,000ths for the step on the fly wheel, and he measured up the pressure plate and the clutch, and said there was an extra 100,000ths (i.e., thickness of pressure plate plus clutch equals 920,000ths).
My questions are: does anyone know if 100,000ths of extra thickness in clutch and pp (over the depth of the flywheel step) are enough to create enough pressure to keep the clutch from slipping?
Also, Baxter's machinist said that the book calls for 900,000ths of step in the flywheel, but the step on my flywheel was only 820,000ths - however, if anything, this would have kept the clutch from slipping, not caused it to slip.
Does anyone have any ideas? I double-checked that Baxters gave me the right parts according to their computer system, all the thicknesses of the new pp and clutch match up to the old pp and clutch and throwout bearing. As far as I can tell, the tranny, flywheel, engine (EA82) housings, etc. are original.
Thanks for your collective brain power!