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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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oil pressurre gauge and heater switch both fixed :)


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6 replies to this topic

#1 Meeky Moose

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Posted 17 October 2003 - 09:02 AM

ok, its time to fix the 2 things mentioned above..

its on an 84' GL hatch... analog gauge cluster.. the oil pressure gauge just sits on 0 doesn't even budge.. i know it has oil pressure since i drove it home 300 miles from NJ.. just bugs me not havin that gauge working.. i've checked the wired to the oil sendin unit, they are all there and connected...

maybe a bad sending unit? or gauge?

2nd one is the heater blower switch.. doesn't do a thing, just looks neat on teh dash.. i pulled it out last night, everything is connected, and the switch clicks like it should, just no blower..

bad blower motor? or??

suggestions on what to look for would be nice :-)

thanks

#2 JWX

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Posted 17 October 2003 - 12:16 PM

well I'd get a manual oil press. gauge. there not hard to install. but if you want to keep the stock gauge try grounding out the wire that comes off of the sender and have somebody look and see if teh needle moves on the gauge. as for the blower motor I have no idea about that

#3 Tom63050

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Posted 18 October 2003 - 12:23 PM

Meeky,

Some possibilities:
1. broken fuse.
2. broken resistor coils. Don't know if the EA81s had these like the EA82s, which have them behind the glove box.
3. broken blower motor. Check if juice gets to motor. If so, then a junkyard blower is called for. Try Sunny's in Culpeper; they have several EA81s.

Tom in Centreville

#4 bbbs53

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Posted 18 October 2003 - 12:55 PM

As far as the blower motor goes, pretty much count on it being the motor. In the FSM, there is a tree approach to diagnosing the problem. It starts with the fuse in the box, juice to the glass fuse under the dash, juice to the in side of the switch, juice to the out side of the switch, juice to the fan lead. I have done this twice in two cars in the last month. Lucky huh? You need to remove the glove box, not the door, just the box. Get the defroster ducts out of the way and then you can get it out without removing the unit. It kind of has to be jockeyed around a little, but it can be done. I would highly recommend removing the resistor coil unit first. It only has 2 phillips screws and comes right out. Mark which side is which for reinstallation. The good part is, the motors are pretty much the same. It needs to be one that has the vent on the motor, however the Gen. 1's didn't have it and the motor is the same. If you get the whole unit out of the donor car, check it with alligator clips to the battery before you pull it. It may save you some time and headache. Also, when you take the glass fuse under the dash out, be alive on where that hot lead touches. It will blow a fuseable link and you will not start. Guess why I know that. There is a ground wire to the screw on the heater front panel that comes off with the verticle screw on the right hand facing side. Good luck, and if you have problems, I will send you the FSM pages. :brow:

#5 Meeky Moose

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Posted 19 October 2003 - 07:04 AM

well i figured out the oil pressure gauge.. the sending unit is bad.. i can wiggle the hole post in it where the screw goes in.. and when i do the guage works for a second then goes off again..

i'll have to look into pullin the glove box and checkin everything...


wheres that little glass fuse located at? haven't seen it..

#6 Meeky Moose

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Posted 19 October 2003 - 03:23 PM

well i got the blower motor fixed too now... everything was fine, but the guts of the motor were full of dirst, grime, and rust (from the scuba diving i suppose)

ended up takin the hole motor apart, cleanin everything, puttin it back together and whala works as good as new... brushes had crap gummed up all over them.. the inside of the housing was the same..

#7 moosens

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Posted 19 October 2003 - 04:06 PM

Great info,thanks guys.




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