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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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AA Lift for my 93 Loyale.


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16 replies to this topic

#1 NewDriverOlderRide

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Posted 09 March 2006 - 01:33 PM

So I'm about to purchase my High Clearance lift for my 93 Loyale 5spd. 4WD and was wondering if it is COMPLETELY bolt on. or are there any mods I will have to do. Also are there any tips for doing it also?

Also whats the biggest size tires W/O trimming and banging?

What about if I trim and bang can I fit 30's?

#2 torxxx

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Posted 09 March 2006 - 01:37 PM

If they got their steering shaft problems solved, the lift is completely bolt on. They sent me the wrong steering shaft so I had to cut mine and have it welded. You will also need to cut and weld the pitchstopper from the engine to the firewall. Raid hoses will be need to be addressed also. I will try to get you a part number for the flex hose I used on mine. It was like 8 bucks at napa and its got the wire spiralled on the inside to stop kinking.

As for the lower raid hose, you can just cut off some of the existing hose and it will mate up. One other thing, your coil wires will need to be extended, along with the grounds for the engine and the tranny.

Other than everything I listed, the lift is bolt on.

#3 torxxx

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Posted 09 March 2006 - 01:39 PM

trimming and banging = 31" if you have the right backspacing on the rims

Snowman has 27" on his car with a 3 inch lift and he told me there was some spots that had to be pounded in.

AA claims that you can fit 29.5 swampers on with out anything major, but I dont see that happening with out sticking the tires out 3 inches farther then they are stock

#4 NewDriverOlderRide

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Posted 09 March 2006 - 09:59 PM

Anyone else?

#5 Numbchux

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Posted 09 March 2006 - 11:45 PM

yep, I had no problems with the steering linkage. and I didn't have to lengthen the pitch stopper.

I'm using stock coil wires (well, aftermarket...but nothing special, reached no problem).

Stock Rad hoses, cut a bunch off the lower one.

ground wires could use an upgrade anyway (I actually had problems with the thermostat not opening all the way, and it turned out to be insufficient grounding)

The steering linkage had to be adjusted, theres a nut on the bottom where it bolts onto the unibody, the hole in the linkage mount is slotted to allow for adjustment, I just had to loosen it, and retighten. You may also want to grind down the trim around the shifter with a rotary tool, since the angles will be changed slightly.

I have to disagree with torxx on the tires. as long as you have relatively stock backspacing (the AA wheels actually have more backspacing, so it's a bit more likely to rub with very wide tires). I have 215/75/R15's (measure to about 27", calculated to about 28") with that same lift, and only had to do a little bashing, and trim the plastic inner fender on one side. The '29.5' inch swampers are actually less than 29" in diameter, especially on narrow wheels.

I have tires that measure about 29" on my 3" BYB lifted wagon, and it's had some serious trimming. McBrat had 30s on a 3" BYB lifted brat, with serious cutting/bashing. So yes, 30s, maybe even 31s, are doable. I'd say 27s or 28s are your best bet. 215/75r15 seems to be a common tire size for guys with 4" lifts.

When you're installing the lift, just take your time, keep in mind, it's very hard, if not virtually impossible, to make a block with multiple holes in it that lines up with every car. So the engine crossmemeber, aswell as the radius rod blocks, are going to be a pain. Also, when you've got the front end apart, things aren't attached, they're just hanging in space, balanced on your jack/jackstand. so take your time. I found that a pair of ratcheting tie-downs where incredibly useful in lining things up. when I wanted something pulled just an inch or so in one direction, I could.

and get Dual Range ;)

#6 cmiller

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Posted 09 March 2006 - 11:55 PM

I have the AA 4" lift with 27" tires on 14" pug alloys on my '92 Loyale, no trimming at all. In fact I added front mud flaps and the rear body trim strakes from a GL-10.
See profile...

Numbchux is right, get a dual range tranny installed. Big improvement on climbing and decents.

The kit is entirely bolt on, did mine in 6 hours with a high lift. Good to get some breaker bars for leverage and a come-a-long just in case. The tranny mounts a bit of work to line up (used the come-a-long and breaker bars) but went in fine. My avatar was taken 10 minutes after installation. No problems at all! Great lift and well built. I did lengthen my pitch stopper one inch to relieve tension on motor mounts. A few ground wires on the body and tranny had to be lengthend. no big deal though.

Let me know if you have any questions about install tricks.

-Chris

#7 scrap487

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Posted 10 March 2006 - 01:57 AM

in all reality, especially if you get swampers, unless you plan on doing a lot of serious mods to your car($$$$$$$$$$$$) 27-28" will be absolutely FINE, just make sure you have some good skid plates.

I built my 6" lift, and 31s fit fine with minimal rubbing(most of it in the back cause I havent gotten around to banging/trimming etc...). My clutch was relatively new when I got the car(about 5k miles), and I've only put about 2k miles on it since last november, and after driving it with those tires for about 2-3 weeks my clutch is hurtin. granted I wasnt especially good to it doing all these nice smokey burnouts(which it cant do anymore), but I toasted a majority of it trying to get over hills when I was out mudding. you will have all the traction you need with 27-29" swampers.

if you got a slugamatic, I'd say go for the big tires, but seriously upgrade your transmission cooling system.

#8 Numbchux

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Posted 10 March 2006 - 10:01 AM

in all reality, especially if you get swampers, unless you plan on doing a lot of serious mods to your car($$$$$$$$$$$$) 27-28" will be absolutely FINE, just make sure you have some good skid plates.


Oh yea, putting 30s on a soob (which come with 23s stock) is like putting 40s on a jeep. that's huge!!! 28s on a soob, with a decent driver, can out-wheel a mildly modified cherokee.

if you got a slugamatic, I'd say go for the big tires, but seriously upgrade your transmission cooling system.


He's got a 5-speed, but it's push button single range....no lo range reduction


and yea, if you do start wheeling it. get used to replacing clutches. and get cheap ones. you do have to beat them a bit to get the car to do anything....even with lo range.

#9 cmiller

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Posted 10 March 2006 - 11:19 AM

I agree with Chux... you do have to work the clutch a bit. I think you should be just fine with 27's to start out. I plan on putting in a EJ22 in mine later on this summer to help with some of the horse power/ hill climbing abilities. I figure a little more umph couldn't hurt with the EJ under the hood. :headbang:

#10 scrap487

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Posted 10 March 2006 - 03:52 PM

yeah, my subaru can definately out wheel the jeep I had untill it comes to gearing. 4:1 low in the transfercase is hard to beat. jeep had waaaay more travel and stuff but I took my subaru up some pretty knarly stuff up on the farm my jeep hadnt been able to do(most cause of cog and weight issues).

personally, get a highlift jack, the smallest swampers you can find, really good skid plates, and you will definately be rockin.

#11 NewDriverOlderRide

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Posted 10 March 2006 - 09:54 PM

and yea, if you do start wheeling it. get used to replacing clutches. and get cheap ones. you do have to beat them a bit to get the car to do anything....even with lo range.


My car is MAINLY going to be a daily driver to school, partys, friends, etc.(I'm only 16) I will be doing very minimum offroading, I don't intend to get too serious into it, I want my car to look mean and be able to have alot of fun in it, and take the occasional"shortcuts":rolleyes: :rolleyes: to get where Im going faster, that is the main reason I don't see the hassel of a DR tranny. And the fact that I only paid 300$ for a good cond. car, and dont want to go through the trouble of finding/buying/installing a new tranny.

#12 Numbchux

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Posted 12 March 2006 - 03:01 AM

My car is MAINLY going to be a daily driver to school, partys, friends, etc.(I'm only 16) I will be doing very minimum offroading, I don't intend to get too serious into it, I want my car to look mean and be able to have alot of fun in it, and take the occasional"shortcuts":rolleyes: :rolleyes: to get where Im going faster, that is the main reason I don't see the hassel of a DR tranny. And the fact that I only paid 300$ for a good cond. car, and dont want to go through the trouble of finding/buying/installing a new tranny.


I paid $150 for an immaculate car that needed a tbelt

and $350 for a pre-lifted car....


I'm sorry, I don't want to sound like a jerk, but you're going to the 'hassle' of making it look mean by lifting it (you practically have to take the tranny out anyway), but you don't want to go through the 'hassle' to make it perform??

#13 kingbobdole

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Posted 12 March 2006 - 03:46 AM

What he said^^ plus nuthing beats 4WD LO when dragging racing on the street in the snow... Slaying mustangs in a 90 hp Station Wagon FTW!:headbang:
Any hoo about the AA lift... I had some issues and I also did the flexy upper hose from NAPA... also the directions SUCK (if they are the same) and make sure you pull the spedo off the tranny, the grounding wires and such... I had no dizzy wire troubles, and no steering linkage issues that werent just me.... I did have to make a longer kickstopper. The Rear is cake... like an hour job... the front is the pain, but not bad, I think I still got the front togather in about 6 hours (lots of kit troubles)... I have 29"ishs on AA rims on my wagon.... and most of the fender work was done by my 15 Lbs friend... at 2 am:brow: Really not that much work to bash the fenders nice... much easier to do then install the kit for me(or at least more stress reducing)... BTW the more rust you have the easier its going to be to mod the fenders:eek:

Tips: get lots of 4x4s blocks off wood.... borrow all the jack stands you can find... 2 jacks makes it easier.. and get a can of PB Blaster!

#14 Numbchux

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Posted 12 March 2006 - 04:16 PM

oh yea, 2 floor jacks are a must, as well as at least 2 stands. and a scissors jack for those minute adjustments while aligning bolts.

be VERY careful not to strip out anything!!! You'll be very sorry if you destroy any threads!

#15 Rebello240zx

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Posted 12 March 2006 - 09:31 PM

Just go to a junkyard and get a d/r you will need it, trust me. As for tire size i would go with a 26 max of 28 inch tire because of the loss of gearing. basicly you lose 5th gear. your axles and your engine will work plenty hard with 27's i would not go higher for your daily driver. Mine is a daily driver and i have 27's i would not go higher! unless you put an ej in, then it's fair game :grin:

#16 NewDriverOlderRide

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Posted 12 March 2006 - 09:31 PM

Thanks for all the advice guys.....i know this is semi-offtopic, but what 6 lugs will wit if i drill out my hubs? is it like only the ones listed in the faq? or any six lug? keep the good advice coming! Im most likely gonna order my stuff within the next 3 days!!! im psyched!

#17 torxxx

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Posted 13 March 2006 - 04:10 AM

yes chevy/yota 6 lug rims will fit the hubs if you redrill them




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