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'91 Legacy Brake adjustment and Idle adjustment Questions
Posted 13 March 2006 - 11:03 PM
Thats what I get for $600 right!!!? Anyway. A little info on the car.
Has a terrible ticking sound...coming from passenger side of the block...don't know if it's a valve/lifter or what. I do know that I have a vac. leak from where the cast-iron intake meets the top of the block....
My main problems I would like to fix ASAP are the high Idle (around 1200rpm) - How do I adjust this?? Tried the screw by the accelerator pedal cable...didn't do anything.
Also the brakes feel SUPER spongy...they stop, but seems like you have to mash the pedal all the way to the floor before things start to slow down...also the e-brake has to be almost pointing strait up to hold...I don't have a manual so If anyone could help me out I'm kinda in need here.
Posted 14 March 2006 - 01:26 AM
Posted 14 March 2006 - 08:07 AM
Posted 15 March 2006 - 09:33 PM
- I think it (the ticking) could be the fact that it sat for awhile and being and the lifter...It seems to come and go...I just changed the oil when I swapped the oil pan...It's weird. I'll see how a few more days driving it goes...
-It seems to have a really strong engine and tranny...It's a shame the thing is kind of a rust bucket. Does anyone know if they salt the roads in Montanna?
-As for the idle prob...I'm getting a "check engine" light when I first start it and it goes away after the engine warms up..how do I check the codes?? I'm just wondering if it is the ECU and if so what would people suggest??
-Another thing I noticed last night when I was tinkering with it was that when I pinched one of the vac. hoses - approx 1 inch diameter, swoops down from a splitter valve of sorts near the air intake and goes to an electrical looking thing- that it kicked the idle up really high...then took a few minutes to drop it down...
Thanks again for the help guys!!! Sorry this post is so long.
Posted 16 March 2006 - 12:39 AM
Posted 16 March 2006 - 01:07 AM
You can check the codes without a scanner by looking up underneath the driver side dash. There should be a couple of black connectors that mate together. Hook those up to each other but I wouldn't push them in until they click all the way because it's a major pain in the rump roast to get them apart again since it's really hard to get both hands up there comfortably. You can put them together most of the way right before it clicks and that should be fine and then it's easy to pull apart with one hand. I'm thinking about adding wire to those to make them longer because I have had to check the codes so many times and I probably will in the future as well.
Here's a more detailed page I just found that actually goes a lot deeper than I knew about...
Good luck! I bought my subaru legacy wagon L 90 auto for $400 bucks and have spent like $700 fixing one thing after the next. I'll never buy another subaru unless it's at least a 2004 or newer. But that's what I get for 400 bucks. Thing is, I don't think I can get the money I put it into back if I sell it now...
Posted 22 March 2006 - 09:58 PM
Posted 23 March 2006 - 07:07 AM
Engine will rev when you hit the leak.
Posted 23 March 2006 - 09:26 AM
Posted 26 March 2006 - 03:48 PM
Posted 26 March 2006 - 04:21 PM
You'll need to remove the disc and rotate the adjuster star-wheel a notch or two. There is an access hole, but given your other problems, opening the rear brakes and examining them would be a good idea,
Posted 26 March 2006 - 05:20 PM
Find the vac. leak. That will likely go a long way towards fixing the idle. Also check the throttle position switch, as if it is badly aligned, it can cause the ECU to not recognise that you are at idle on the throttle, causing it to not idle the engine. This will also throw a code usually. the other thing to do is spray some carb cleaner down that hose that you found (and pinched) causing the idle to not return even as well as it was. This leads to the Idle Air Control valve, which can get dirty, causing it to react more slowly than it should. Is the valve ticking gone yet? If not you may want to pull the valve covers and clean the Hydraulic Lash Adjusters, or even replace them as needed. Setright is correct on the parking brake, and I would strongly recomend checking all of your brake pads. It sounds like the Previous owner was. . .Ummm. . . less than diligent. . . on maintainance. This means that what you got to start with was a project. What you will have when you have it running right is probably one of the best cars that Subaru has ever produced. They are that good.
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