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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Xt4 Steering Rack is in my Loyale....


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13 replies to this topic

#1 StormTrooper

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Posted 20 October 2003 - 02:07 AM

With a little reaffirmation from Dr.RX, and the technical expertise of RallyRuss,we put an XT4 steering rack and tie-rod ends into my Loyale.

So if anyone is curious about the XT4 steering rack swappability into an EA82, it is possible. There are different part numbers for the racks, and I conlcuded that these are the differences:

XT4 rack is a little bit bulkier in some areas.
Steering ratio seems different...maybe tighter...
Sems to require less steering to complete same turn as wagon/sedan rack

I tentatively say maybe because I only drove it home, and not since...

The position of the steering rack is slightly askew, as after I stuffed my front end good, I've had a tight spot in my steernig, and the steernig knucle u-joint bind a little bit, which was not remedied by the new rack..no good.:boohoo:

#2 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 20 October 2003 - 02:27 AM

Hey - that's cool. Someone should put that in the repair manual. Sounds like a good upgrade if the ratio is tighter.

GD

#3 StormTrooper

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Posted 20 October 2003 - 02:32 AM

It was actually a very easy job, with a whiz like russ around (he works on Fire Trucks and stuff for San Jo, CA...

The bitch was the bashed oil pan, cuz the pickup got bent, and that took us about three hours and a 40 of King Cobra:drunk:

GD--not quite sure yet, but the fact that the XT is more a aero-handler so to speak, plus the different part number, and just from what i noticed driving it home, i thikn it is tighter---but i think my wheels are still toed in a little, so its hard to say.

But I definately will do a step by step write up, when i do in fact have proof that its tighter..

#4 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 20 October 2003 - 03:25 AM

The FSM might say - not sure, but it may give a number of turns lock-to-lock for the two racks. Maybe someone could tell us.

GD

#5 StormTrooper

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Posted 20 October 2003 - 03:52 AM

i was thinking bout FSM myself...


ill let ya know what i find

#6 calebz

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Posted 20 October 2003 - 08:20 AM

Too cool.. I have been wondering if that swap would be beneficial. MY FSM doesn't have any XT info, but I can find the regular old GL info to post later.

#7 XSNRG

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Posted 20 October 2003 - 09:49 AM

I turned the wheel on my XT and it seems like it's 3.5 L/L and the GL is 3.7 L/L. I haven't looked in the FSM but will try to today.

#8 StormTrooper

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Posted 20 October 2003 - 09:58 AM

thanks brudda, I don't have the FSM, so your research would be appreciated...If you could scan the pages and e-mail em to me so i can include them in my USRM write-up, that'd be cool too

#9 toybuilder

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Posted 06 November 2003 - 09:18 PM

I'm going to do this same thing soon. XT steering rack into my Loyale turbo wagon. Any additional info would be appreciated.

Thanks!

#10 calebz

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Posted 06 November 2003 - 09:42 PM

I'm diggin on this idea too.. I like the idea of a little tighter ratio..

#11 StormTrooper

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Posted 07 November 2003 - 02:05 PM

sorry guys, I haven;t done a write up yet, but here's the scoop:

XT6 steering Rack: Tightest possible steering for gen 3 style soobs. 3.3 lock to lock. Prob is, Its a computer controlled rack, with like 6 different modes for different conditions, which is awesome, but requires computer/wiring stuff plus p/s pump to match....

XT4: A bit tighter than the Gl/Loyale rack, plus its aluminum, not steel. tiny bit bulkier. 2WD or 4WD doesn't matter: same rack.

All you'z gottas do it remove y-pipe (or Crossover i think), eazier withpout the sway bar in there, but not neccesary to remove. Then unbolt the four steering rack mount bolts, loosen the nut on the steering joint that the steering shaft from the rack goes into so the shaft can slide out of the joint, and careuffly loosen two of the p/s hardline nuts that run from the softlines, and you got the whole unit disconnected. Oh yeah, remove the two front wheels and the little mini cotter pins on the tierod end balljoints, remove the nuts, and get the tierods ends off of the knuckles, and viola, you have disconnected the steering rack.

Keep the tierod ends if they're still in good shape, but both of mine were shot...

to install, repeat this process but replace "loosen" and "remove" commands with "tighten" and "properly place"....;)

Remember to properly burp the system and get all air out by turning lock to lock with car on ground and off, then on ground with car on, then off ground with car on, the whole time with the p/s cap off and filling it slowly as air comes out of system...The whining noise at lock should leave the car after driving it around a little....

P.S. my front end was towed in like i biotch and we accidentally connected my streering knuckle 180 degrees the wrong way, so i now drive with an upside down wheel, so take heed of that too....!!! get it aligned afterwards...

#12 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 07 November 2003 - 05:03 PM

Just remove your steering wheel, and turn it over - no problem.

GD

#13 rallyruss

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Posted 07 November 2003 - 06:52 PM

Don was going to need to disconnect the steeering coupler any how to fix his misalignment to the rack. I sugested he fix it that way instead of moving the steering wheel and it does need a real alignment after everything is fixed up right. thanx for the good words Don. no more jumping for you that was a pain and its still not done yet:brolleye: .

#14 StormTrooper

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Posted 08 November 2003 - 06:29 PM

that was by no means a jump...there was no pituresque arc, no split-second of pure sky, just straight off the ridge, nose dive, and WHAM!!!
:banghead: :dead:

GD- that would be the quick fix, to turen the wheel, but as russ said, I gotta disconnect the steering coupler, turn it 180 degrees, and drive it further down the steering rack shaft, cuz i got tight sposts in my turning...




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