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Xt4 Steering Rack is in my Loyale....
Posted 20 October 2003 - 02:07 AM
So if anyone is curious about the XT4 steering rack swappability into an EA82, it is possible. There are different part numbers for the racks, and I conlcuded that these are the differences:
XT4 rack is a little bit bulkier in some areas.
Steering ratio seems different...maybe tighter...
Sems to require less steering to complete same turn as wagon/sedan rack
I tentatively say maybe because I only drove it home, and not since...
The position of the steering rack is slightly askew, as after I stuffed my front end good, I've had a tight spot in my steernig, and the steernig knucle u-joint bind a little bit, which was not remedied by the new rack..no good.:boohoo:
Posted 20 October 2003 - 02:27 AM
Posted 20 October 2003 - 02:32 AM
The bitch was the bashed oil pan, cuz the pickup got bent, and that took us about three hours and a 40 of King Cobra:drunk:
GD--not quite sure yet, but the fact that the XT is more a aero-handler so to speak, plus the different part number, and just from what i noticed driving it home, i thikn it is tighter---but i think my wheels are still toed in a little, so its hard to say.
But I definately will do a step by step write up, when i do in fact have proof that its tighter..
Posted 20 October 2003 - 03:25 AM
Posted 20 October 2003 - 03:52 AM
ill let ya know what i find
Posted 20 October 2003 - 08:20 AM
Posted 20 October 2003 - 09:49 AM
Posted 20 October 2003 - 09:58 AM
Posted 06 November 2003 - 09:18 PM
Posted 06 November 2003 - 09:42 PM
Posted 07 November 2003 - 02:05 PM
XT6 steering Rack: Tightest possible steering for gen 3 style soobs. 3.3 lock to lock. Prob is, Its a computer controlled rack, with like 6 different modes for different conditions, which is awesome, but requires computer/wiring stuff plus p/s pump to match....
XT4: A bit tighter than the Gl/Loyale rack, plus its aluminum, not steel. tiny bit bulkier. 2WD or 4WD doesn't matter: same rack.
All you'z gottas do it remove y-pipe (or Crossover i think), eazier withpout the sway bar in there, but not neccesary to remove. Then unbolt the four steering rack mount bolts, loosen the nut on the steering joint that the steering shaft from the rack goes into so the shaft can slide out of the joint, and careuffly loosen two of the p/s hardline nuts that run from the softlines, and you got the whole unit disconnected. Oh yeah, remove the two front wheels and the little mini cotter pins on the tierod end balljoints, remove the nuts, and get the tierods ends off of the knuckles, and viola, you have disconnected the steering rack.
Keep the tierod ends if they're still in good shape, but both of mine were shot...
to install, repeat this process but replace "loosen" and "remove" commands with "tighten" and "properly place"....
Remember to properly burp the system and get all air out by turning lock to lock with car on ground and off, then on ground with car on, then off ground with car on, the whole time with the p/s cap off and filling it slowly as air comes out of system...The whining noise at lock should leave the car after driving it around a little....
P.S. my front end was towed in like i biotch and we accidentally connected my streering knuckle 180 degrees the wrong way, so i now drive with an upside down wheel, so take heed of that too....!!! get it aligned afterwards...
Posted 07 November 2003 - 05:03 PM
Posted 07 November 2003 - 06:52 PM
Posted 08 November 2003 - 06:29 PM
GD- that would be the quick fix, to turen the wheel, but as russ said, I gotta disconnect the steering coupler, turn it 180 degrees, and drive it further down the steering rack shaft, cuz i got tight sposts in my turning...
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