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93 loyale bogs/high idle until warm up then fine


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Hello. New to the forum. Just got my first subaru for a great deal and looking forward to fixing it up. Got a problem though hope maybe someone can help.

 

I have a 93 loyale I just bought and began working on. When you first start it it runs the RPM up to about 2300 and idles high for about 5-7 minutes, kicks down automatically and then is fine. If you attempt to put it in gear before it idles down it bogs and sometimes stalls but if you wait until it idles down it runs great. Any ideas or experience in this?

 

1.8, automatic trans.

 

Thanks

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My 1990 SPFI 2wd 5spd wagon does the same. 2300 rpm when started cold. 750 rpm idle warm. 500-600 rpm idle after long highway run.

 

I have replaced dist cap, rotor, plug wires, 02 sensor, coolant temp sensor, air filter with new parts. I have changed out the MAF sensor and throttle position sensor with good used parts.

 

I still have bogging when warm a lot of the time, with hesitation and stumbling.

 

When cold, car runs perfect, first 2-3 minutes. Also seems to do a little better when cool outside versus warm ( ambient ).

 

Getting a little tired of it, actually. Wonder what it is going to take to get it to run right for longer than 3 min.

 

interested in this thread...

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My 93 Loyale 4wd 5mt does the same thing until it idles down. It's the Idle Air Control sensor or valve or whatever it is. I find that if I surge the gas and feather the clutch until i can get it up on the street I can usually do it without stalling. Once on the street I give it just enough gas to get her accelerating and she drives fine after the first block. Checked my codes a while ago and one of them was the IAC.

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I fixed that problem in my 88' DL spfi wagon..

 

take the idle air control valve off and clean it real real good..

 

when i did this to mine i also swapped out the motor with a brand new one.. soooo..

 

but its got all the old sensors, intake and such from the original. i also changed all the pcv lines cause i found 1 that was nearly plugged up..

 

it idles fast when cold, then knocks itself down.. doesn't bog at all anytime regardless.. and it gets 31 mpg :)

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IAC is on the front of the throttle body. Has a 5/8" vacuum hose about a ft long coming out the top and going towards the pass side. It can be electrically bad (which should throw an ECU code) or mechanically bad, which can usually just be cleaned up. I use carb cleaner on mine.

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My IAC was throwing a code and affecting the idle. I checked the voltage at the harness and it was fine according to the manual. The reisitance for the actuator was also within the specifications. So, I took the actuator off and moved the valve manually and now it works fine and the engine code is gone:banana:. Still high idle at cold start, but doesn't stall or bog down much at all when I try to drive it.

 

The codes for my car used to be the Vehicle Speed Sensor, IAC, EVAP purge valve, and EGR valve. Now only the EVAP and EGR codes remain. Checked the sensor right next to the EGR vacuum actuator and it seems to be alright as far as resistance goes, but its only getting about 4 volts when the ignition is on. Not sure if that's how much there should be. The EVAP valve works just fine, but the vacuum control thing has hardly any resistance so I'm thinking the windings or whatever switch is in it is just bad. Off to PNP for another one and hopefully that'll stop that from throwing a code.

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its normal for these cars to idle at like 2k or so, for a few minutes then drop down when they're cold..

 

i have an egr code but my egr vacuum switch is broken soo... and i can't find one..

 

My IAC was throwing a code and affecting the idle. I checked the voltage at the harness and it was fine according to the manual. The reisitance for the actuator was also within the specifications. So, I took the actuator off and moved the valve manually and now it works fine and the engine code is gone:banana:. Still high idle at cold start, but doesn't stall or bog down much at all when I try to drive it.

 

The codes for my car used to be the Vehicle Speed Sensor, IAC, EVAP purge valve, and EGR valve. Now only the EVAP and EGR codes remain. Checked the sensor right next to the EGR vacuum actuator and it seems to be alright as far as resistance goes, but its only getting about 4 volts when the ignition is on. Not sure if that's how much there should be. The EVAP valve works just fine, but the vacuum control thing has hardly any resistance so I'm thinking the windings or whatever switch is in it is just bad. Off to PNP for another one and hopefully that'll stop that from throwing a code.

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