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P1102/p0106


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#1 YetiMan

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Posted 27 March 2006 - 02:57 AM

I'm going to be working on this P0106 tomorrow, will triple/quadruple check the vacuum hoses (I'm just not finding anything out of place so far :confused: ) and possibly test/replace the MAP sensor...

any wisdom here on the P1102 (Pressure Sources Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction)? This is terminology I don't really grasp. I don't know a Pressure Source Solenoid Valve Circuit from my own rump roast crack. Perhaps that's where it is: my rump roast crack. That would explain why I can't find anything with a big Pressure Source Solenoid Valve Circuit label on it anywhere on the car. Anywho... if you guys know anything about it rest assured it's more than I do and I'll post some sort of delightful emoticon if you help me make it go away before I go looking for it where the sun don't shine. :brow:

for what it's worth, and in keeping with what seems typical for the P0106, the 4eat is shifting a bit funky...kind of a hard shift 1st to 2nd.

I'm kind of hoping these two relate and that I can run the MAP one down tomorrow and that'll get 'em both.

thanks again, you guys rock :headbang:

#2 99obw

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Posted 27 March 2006 - 08:18 AM

My understanding of the PSSV is that it allows the MAP sensor to either sample the intake manifold pressure or the atmosphere, allowing it to function both as a MAP and a BAP.

You don't list your car, but on our 99 outback the PSSV is on the right strut tower. I went through checking all of these systems when we first got the evaporative emissions code (still have it). It's pretty easy. Haynes or the FSM should describe it pretty well. I can take a look at the manual at a later time and help if needed. Maybe endwrench has something on PSSV diagnosis.

#3 YetiMan

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Posted 27 March 2006 - 08:49 AM

1996 OBW.

all signs point to the little bastard on the right strut tower so that's going to be my target today. I'll get the book, try to figure out if I can test it, if not then I'll go to pick and pull and see if I can find one.

#4 YetiMan

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Posted 28 March 2006 - 01:29 AM

so, here's how today went....

I went and got the haynes manual, which gave testing parameters for the MAP sensor. I verified that the input voltage was good (5 volts: check) then I checked the signal voltage, which was not within specs. Specs in the book called for 3 volts at idle ranging to 2 volts at wide open throttle. I was reading 1.5 volts at idle ranging to 1 or just shy at open throttle. The PSSV's resistance was right in the middle of the specs. So, I went to find this assembly at a junkyard, which took some driving around but I did finally find one, with the whole pssv. I installed it and saw literally zero difference in readings from the MAP. So, I went home and continued to go through vacuum hoses. I would think I found one that was a little crusty and didn't quite seal all the way tight, I'd snip it off and snug it up, and no change. So I went through a lot of that without effecting anything. Then I noticed that one of the wires going into the connector to the PSSV was backed out of the plastic housing a bit. I took a closer look and it looked like it wasn't actually engaging with the other connection at all, so I pulled both wires out and snapped them on the female connector, sans male connector housing. No change in readings. I went down to the parts store to find that this MAP sensor is $270...I can't get $150 for my entire EJ25 engine, I'm sure as ************ not going to pay almost twice as much for a tiny peice of plastic.

Anyway, I reached a breaking point having not resolved this....I did drive it up to work tonight and scanned the OBDII, which has completed all it's cycles and has no codes. I'm really hoping this means that one wire was the source of the problem. It makes me wonder about the MAP voltage...do any of you think it's possible that this would read differently at higher altitude and that the haynes book is giving numbers that apply to sea level?

any other thoughts on this, possible ideas on vaccuum loss that isn't obvious and how this might effect the way this MAP voltage reads...

I'm out of ideas other than fogging the intake and vaccuum hoses with carb cleaner and hoping to find a leak I couldn't hear, see, or feel today.

#5 99obw

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Posted 28 March 2006 - 06:29 AM

The best way to test the MAP sensor is with a vacuum pump and gauge connected directly to it, rather than relying on the vacuum signal from the engine. It does sound as if the MAP is suspect, can you get one from the junkyard?

#6 YetiMan

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Posted 28 March 2006 - 08:55 AM

The best way to test the MAP sensor is with a vacuum pump and gauge connected directly to it, rather than relying on the vacuum signal from the engine. It does sound as if the MAP is suspect, can you get one from the junkyard?


that's what I did yesterday..

...and it was a hassle! :D

"what are you looking for"
"95-98 subarus"
"what kind of part"
"the manifold absolute pressure sensor and the pressure source solenoid valve for a 95-98 subaru"
"what model"
"any"
"what model is your car"
"outback"
"we don't sell engine sensors, they stay with the engines"
"it's not on the engine it's on the passenger inner fenderwell in front of the strut"
"I see....I see a headlight switch there"
"well, this is there too, can I just go find one out there"
"no, you need to go out with somebody"
"fine, can we do that"
proceeds to tell guy that I'm looking for a headlight switch for a legacy and to "keep an eye on me"
we go walking around back yard and find nothing...
repeat above about 6 or 7 times


anyhow, I did find one and what's weird is that they both give suspect readings, but they're the same exact suspect readings, so maybe they've failed in the same way (???). My line of thinking at this point is that since they give identical readings, there must be an underlying problem with the amount of vacuum in the manifold that's causing the reading to be wrong.

Posted Imagepain in the rump roast...Posted Image

There's a vacuum chart with values in the haynes book. I'll call my bud and see if he's got a vacuum pump and see if we can find out about the MAP for sure today.

#7 grossgary

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Posted 28 March 2006 - 09:16 AM

yetiman, you are resilient to say the least. hope you get it figured out.

i'm having mad issues with mine as well.... it's 20 years old and i did a turbo to non-turbo conversion.

#8 YetiMan

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 01:44 AM

daily update:

god and/or nature is now interfering with subarizing.

I am sick as hell and it's dumping out.

the good news:

I've done nothing with the sube except reset the codes after I reconnected the bad connection and I've driven it 2 commutes, so like 60 miles, and no CEL. My scanner says all 7 cycles are complete and no codes.

maybe this is whooped?
too sick to do anything but ski work and sleep.

thanks and goodnight :)

#9 YetiMan

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Posted 03 April 2006 - 01:47 AM

well, seems like that one wire got it. :banana::burnout::banana:

not sure where/why the harsh 1st to 2nd shift is coming from.

My Haynes manual has a long cautionary diatribe about how the only thing I can do with the transmission is check the fluids. heh, I'm sure that's true.

So I did that and all is well. Perhaps it's just losing gear oil into the ATF.

anyway, the codes seemed to have been caused by that bad connection.

ADDITIONAL INFO: So, as for the bad readings on the MAP, I went and talked to a service guy who's done some work with these and apparently altitude does have an effect on the way they read, and my out-of-spec readings were consistant with other similar units at this higher elevation. Strangely nothing in my manual mentions that, and I damn near bought a $270 part that wouldn't have changed anything.
:eek: so, you know, word to the wise about that there.

that is all.

#10 grossgary

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Posted 03 April 2006 - 05:20 AM

anyway, the codes seemed to have been caused by that bad connection.

awesome job yetiman (a.k.a. mr. resilient) , i don't see a reference to this "bad wire" earlier in the thread. where/what was it?

glad you found it!

so...you selling or keeping this "project"?

#11 YetiMan

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Posted 03 April 2006 - 08:18 AM

awesome job yetiman (a.k.a. mr. resilient) , i don't see a reference to this "bad wire" earlier in the thread. where/what was it?

glad you found it!

so...you selling or keeping this "project"?


thanks...the bad connection part was buried in post # 4:

I was reading 1.5 volts at idle ranging to 1 or just shy at open throttle. The PSSV's resistance was right in the middle of the specs. So, I went to find this assembly at a junkyard, which took some driving around but I did finally find one, with the whole pssv. I installed it and saw literally zero difference in readings from the MAP. So, I went home and continued to go through vacuum hoses. I would think I found one that was a little crusty and didn't quite seal all the way tight, I'd snip it off and snug it up, and no change. So I went through a lot of that without effecting anything. Then I noticed that one of the wires going into the connector to the PSSV was backed out of the plastic housing a bit. I took a closer look and it looked like it wasn't actually engaging with the other connection at all, so I pulled both wires out and snapped them on the female connector, sans male connector housing. No change in readings. I went down to the parts store to find that this MAP sensor is $270...I can't get $150 for my entire EJ25 engine, I'm sure as ************ not going to pay almost twice as much for a tiny peice of plastic.


I think I'll end up having to keep it and try to get my money's worth. It's far and away, far and away the best handling snow vehicle I've ever driven. It's made light work of some hairy driving in Big and Little Cottonwood canyon storms here. I think that starter problem has to be a voltage/battery thing because it only happens when it's very cold. I don't know....I'd be happy if I got a few years of normal driving out of it. This harsh shifting is not making me confident but ************ I'm just going to drive it and see.

#12 grossgary

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Posted 03 April 2006 - 09:18 AM

Yetiman - on the harsh shifting. i forget what year you have but on the older 4EAT auto's there's a shift resistor bolted to the passengers side strut tower in the engine bay. i actually disconnect mine to make the shifts firmer. they are quite violent, but i do it because the older XT6's have a slow/delayed 3rd to 4th shift and this helps that out alot. but it increases the snap in the 1st and 2nd shifts. i would bet this shift resistor is unplugged....or the wiring/pins are out of line!!

it may be on the passengers strut tower, if i remember i'll check my wife's 97 impreza. i know the SVX is in a different place, but i think the early EJ series motors are on the strut tower.

on the snow driving - try installing the Duty Solenoid C switch. only requires splicing into one wire and make the automatic transmissions HOT HOT HOT in the snow. makes driving in actual snow phenomenal. it essentially "locks" the front and rear wheels via the transfer clutches. info on this board about if you want to search. otherwise you have to rely on the TCU which really limits the AWD performance. don't really need this unless you're off road or in serious snow/mud/slippery stuff.

#13 YetiMan

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Posted 04 April 2006 - 01:41 AM

rock out!

I'll see if I can't find that thang tomorrow.




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