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twin 4x4 stick/lever setup...


scrap487
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I think he means, One lever for Lo-High-range, And another for 2X4-4X4.

I've givin it some thought, and I think I remember reading that it was possible on here.

2wd lo range would be sweet too.

 

yeah, its splitting the hi/low from 4x2 and 4x4. its DEFINATELY possible if you have looked at a d/r transmission, I WILL be doing it as soon as i have time. I was actually thinking about hooking up some kinda of onboard air and having the highlow controlled by compressed air with a lever on the shifter, kinda like those big trucks, but that might be just a little(read: too) expensive for me. but yeah, seperate levers would be awesome.

 

I thought I heard about someone doing that on here but I havent been able to find it... pics would be GREAT :confused:

 

and if no one has done it maybe I'll be able to pioneer something :headbang:

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I was in the process of settting up a 2nd lever , then realized I realy didnt need 2WD Hi range so I just removed the linkage rod from the front hi-low to the back and I run in low range all the time , now if I want High range alls I do is open the hood and reach down to the front of the trans and move the arm coming out of the trans :eek:

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OOOOOHHH.....

 

Yea, i've very much thought of it before, especially with the hills here in Duluth. lo range 2WD would be a huge clutch saver! The Road that I have to go up to get to my alley is so steep, that in Hi range, I cannot use second gear, no matter how high I let the rpm's go in first, it will not maintain speed in second.

 

I was origionally thinking I'd pull a front axle for summer use, but I think this summer I'll have a buddy (I know....I still don't know how to weld....I'm sorry) fab something up.

 

I don't, however, see how this would be helpful when offroading....

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OOOOOHHH.....

 

Yea, i've very much thought of it before, especially with the hills here in Duluth. lo range 2WD would be a huge clutch saver! The Road that I have to go up to get to my alley is so steep, that in Hi range, I cannot use second gear, no matter how high I let the rpm's go in first, it will not maintain speed in second.

 

I was origionally thinking I'd pull a front axle for summer use, but I think this summer I'll have a buddy (I know....I still don't know how to weld....I'm sorry) fab something up.

 

I don't, however, see how this would be helpful when offroading....

 

well, if you're in a tight spot and you got lockers and you need low range, it will make some things easier to negotiate if you have enough traction, because with front and rear locked and having a locker it will want to pull you straight right? also would be nice being able to run around town in low on dry pavement and have the option to switch to hi a little bit easier when you hit the highway

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I guess I don't get it?

 

The factory setup works fine and it's not in the way?

 

:confused:

 

2HI/2LO would give you 2 sets of gears to use on pavement without wrecking your axles from torque-bind. Here is what I think about the whole thing....

 

P1010005.JPG

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well, if you're in a tight spot and you got lockers and you need low range, it will make some things easier to negotiate if you have enough traction, because with front and rear locked and having a locker it will want to pull you straight right? also would be nice being able to run around town in low on dry pavement and have the option to switch to hi a little bit easier when you hit the highway

 

I've never had this problem, and there are some really tight trails, I've gotten around corners (I can think of a couple in particular) without stopping that 3 wranglers had to make multi-point turns on....

 

if you've got a your front locked, it'll be hard to turn with or without 4WD

 

And, having driven a rear-locked Jeep offroad a bunch, it doesn't really effect turning radius much. We actually tested the turning radius with and without it locked (my buddy has a rear air locker :headbang:), and the difference was only about a foot....

 

 

and yes roundeye, I agree, that's why I have pavement sucks stickers on either side of my blue wagon (with the .com cut off!)

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I'm going to bump this up, since this is something that Project Cheap needs bad. I would just drive it around in 2wd-lo the majority of the time. Would really help to turn those 235's a bit better for getting to the trails. I'm going to look at it closer on my next day off, but I'm no fabricator (redneck rigger is more like it) so hoping I'll see some pics/write-up from someone who has done it.

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But have you tried parking in 4wd? lol.. It's not fun.

 

As you can see in that other thread I didn't get the idea of it all. After some thought I came up with this

 

If you have 28" or bigger tires nd you try to park in a tight space in 4WD LO it can get annoying (esp. without power steering) And high range just means you have to slip the clutch a lot, again esp when parking on hills.

 

It is a usefull thing (well it would be for me!) and I plan on doing it. If anyone out there has done it, or is going to do it soon. Send me PICS!! hahaha. I was also thinking of using the standard lever as a HI/LO selector and have a 4WD pneumatic/hydraulic selector hooked to a button.

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the previous owner of the poopenvagon wrapped some fabric around the 4WD lever to keep it quite, and sometime is pushes it up into 4WD. using 4lo in a straight line isn't a problem, but if you have to turn, heaven forbid, you're stuck in FWD.

 

I will be doing this as part of my EJ swap this summer in the Chuxwagon

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You guys worry too much, just run 4lo on pavement and turn it off when yer trying to park or the like.

 

with much bigger tires you're already putting a lot more strain on the drive train than it was designed for, when youre on DRY pavement it will not only wear the tires faster but it will also wear on axles and u-joints and that stuff faster as well. and considering the tailshaft or whatever in the transmissions seems to be the next weakest link down from the axles I dont want to cause wear on it that can be avoided. I also busted a ujoint on my driveshaft driving aroudn in 4hi after I first got done with my lift, I didnt realize it right away and it was stuck there because I couldnt pull it all the way out without a lever.

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The high low actuting lever is on the right (passengers USA) side of the tranny right up by the bell housing. You should be able to see it by looking under the hood with the spare tire removed. If you shift it separately, it will help a lot for running with big tires.

 

With my car, I didn't have time to separate it out, so it still works the oem way. I drive it in 4lo all the time now, but it stays on my dirt driveway.

 

Remember, the 30" tires I have on put much more leverage and fight on the drivetrain than the stock tires ever could. The times you most need low range are parking and pulling out into traffic, both times when 90 degree turns are being made. It's stupid to stress the drivetrain more when you are trying to pull out into traffic. I have had situations that I've ended up sitting at an exit from a parking lot for 10minutes waiting for traffic to clear enough that I can lumber my way in.

 

2wd lo is the way to go.

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The high low actuting lever is on the right (passengers USA) side of the tranny right up by the bell housing. You should be able to see it by looking under the hood with the spare tire removed. If you shift it separately, it will help a lot for running with big tires.

 

With my car, I didn't have time to separate it out, so it still works the oem way. I drive it in 4lo all the time now, but it stays on my dirt driveway.

 

Remember, the 30" tires I have on put much more leverage and fight on the drivetrain than the stock tires ever could. The times you most need low range are parking and pulling out into traffic, both times when 90 degree turns are being made. It's stupid to stress the drivetrain more when you are trying to pull out into traffic. I have had situations that I've ended up sitting at an exit from a parking lot for 10minutes waiting for traffic to clear enough that I can lumber my way in.

 

2wd lo is the way to go.

 

oh pulling out fast enough isnt a problem, I could still burn rubber with 31" tires before I got the carb problems I have now, I just like to not put so much stress on the drivetrain and tires, especially clutch. right now I have 29" and untill they are totally worn past the wear bars I will never spin those on pavement, they grip good enough to break ************ and the compound is incredibly soft

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You guys worry too much, just run 4lo on pavement and turn it off when yer trying to park or the like.

... What if I forget I'm in 4lo and i go to pull in to a parking spot and then the car is jumping all over the place and I can't get it back to 2wd because its stuck..? happened twice before...

 

Oh, and btw. The low range selector lever on a EA81 (79 - 84, brats - 87, aussie Brumbies - 94) is on the left, US drivers side, on the gearbox... They put it on the right, US passenger side, on the EA82 (85 - 94.) Some of my years might not be right, everythings different here in Aus...

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... What if I forget I'm in 4lo and i go to pull in to a parking spot and then the car is jumping all over the place and I can't get it back to 2wd because its stuck..? happened twice before...

 

Oh, and btw. The low range selector lever on a EA81 (79 - 84, brats - 87, aussie Brumbies - 94) is on the left, US drivers side, on the gearbox... They put it on the right, US passenger side, on the EA82 (85 - 94.) Some of my years might not be right, everythings different here in Aus...

 

sounds about right, mine is on the left. I just dont like running in 4wd period on pavement. my tires are SO soft and sticky they grip dry pavement like no other tire i've ever had, and I have this bad feeling in my gut that other parts of the drivetrain will give out before the tires start bucking on dry pavement.

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