Snowman Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 So I'm about ready to put the d/r 5spd tranny behind the EJ22 that's currently in the EA82 wagon. I sent the EA82 flywheel to a machine shop (a reputable business I have dealt with in the past) in the nearest town large enough to have one, and told them to fill and redrill the holes so that it matches the EJ22. Seems pretty simple. Then I got the bill, and it was over $250. They also said that they charged me substantially less than it cost them to do the job, and that they would not do another job like that again. For those of you out there who have done this yourself or have had somebody else do the work, how hard is it, and does it really take that long? How much did it cost for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarutex Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 Holy.... Thanks for puttin' the fear of god into me. My flywheel's are currently at the machine shop waiting to be done... I was hoping for a bill LESS than the $70 people on the board do it for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 If my memory serves me correctly I was quoted 75$ buy Albi at AA. The same price that 88hatchmonster quoted but no shipping involved as AA is local to me. (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44936&highlight=flywheel+redrill) Thread to hatchmonster post on the subject. Stumpy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northguy Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 Wow! That's some expensive machining. 5 star would probably have been less expensive. I'd have gladly taken it there for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hodaka Rider Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 Ummm, yeah. Fairly simple procedure. Welding is welding, material is thick enough that they would probably not have to worry about a jig to prevent warping. Drilling the pattern is easy enough for someone who has and knows how to use a rotary table and mill. I'd say 2-4 hours for an experienced machinist. Correct me if I'm wrong, everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 HOLY CRAP. I have a place in Spokane that quoted me $40 to mill out the holes (they charged me $50 because the shop monkey drilled them out instead of milling them, resulting in a $90 job on which they lost money) and I got it rebalanced for $30. If you can fit a flywheel in a flat Flat Rate USPS box (and I think you can!), that's roughly $100 for the whole deal, assuming I'll help you get your flywheel altered here, and I will edit: no wonder they charged you so much, Snowman.. you had a fill & redrill... I didn't have mine filled. edit edit: If I'm going to do this, I'll have to get another EJ flywheel for the match (I bought one from a local JY and returned it afterwards but this would warrant keeping one on hand at all times. I will have to see what that would cost me unless someone has one they'd be willing to part with for cheap...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88HatchMonster Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 Did you get a quote or an estimate of the price before you had the work done? I could see a shop charging $250 for what I do. It's custom, it's a one-off thing for them. It probably took one tech half a day or more. Anyone wishing to have their flywheel machined by a local shop would be advised to see if they can simply mill out the existing holes to match the EJ crank. I believe the extra expense came from asking them to fill in the existing holes. So anyway, don't feel like you've been burned Snowman. I may have set you up for a fall by offering my service at such a low price. It takes me at least 3-4 hours and I'm all set up with a jig, etc. My first one took MUCH longer, and most machinists and welders (more specifically shops) don't do ANY custom work on the cheap. Baccaruda: If you need to give someone a template for a redrill, use a flexplate or the small backing plate that goes on top of the flexplate on an automatic. Much more convenient than a whole flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted April 1, 2006 Author Share Posted April 1, 2006 Thanks for the replies. I suppose I should have gotten an estimate first. Oh well, I'll just do another T-belt and frontend reseal for a friend and that will pay for it. Next time, I'll ship it to 88hatchmonster for redrilling. It sounds like some people have just had their holes milled out without filling them. That concept made me very nervous, which is why I went ahead and had them filled. Has anybody been running this setup for any length of time? What's your experience with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 Baccaruda: If you need to give someone a template for a redrill, use a flexplate or the small backing plate that goes on top of the flexplate on an automatic. Much more convenient than a whole flywheel. you've got that right. I'll keep an eye out.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 i dont get what the big deal is for this conversion. all you do is weld it up, and redrill the damn holes, the flywheel centers itself for christ's sake. do machine shops not care anymore? its not that big of a deal to me. weld holes, check........redrill holes using customers template/flexplate/EJ crank, check......total time.....not $250........i guess if you want to do this EJ swap, you need to either bend over the counter, or bring a case or two of beer for the shop you take it too....or do it yourself with a dremel and about 2 hours of your time. then go to a fastener supply store that deals in high-grade bolts and washers, and ask for some dowels, get a grade 5 at least. 3/16'' dowels can handle about 300 shear lbs of torque, use 3 or 4 of them and you have no movement, and no risk of shearing your flywheel bolts. i tried this the first go-round with my first flywheel, then i just paid mudrat to do it for me. btw, i thought that our flywheel's are cast iron and cant be welded up, i guess i was wrong.......... ~Josh~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 I guess I don't get what's so hard about it. Although I haven't done the swap yet, I'm getting ready to do it. It looks like the bolt holes just need to be reamed out a little bit. The flywheel is centered on the extension of the crank, and the bolts just attach it to the crank. I don't think any rebalancing should be necessary, since you're not removing a lot of material. I just plan on doing it myself. Somebody let me know if I'm wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peskyjiggler Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 So I'm about ready to put the d/r 5spd tranny behind the EJ22 that's currently in the EA82 wagon. I sent the EA82 flywheel to a machine shop (a reputable business I have dealt with in the past) in the nearest town large enough to have one, and told them to fill and redrill the holes so that it matches the EJ22. Seems pretty simple. Then I got the bill, and it was over $250. They also said that they charged me substantially less than it cost them to do the job, and that they would not do another job like that again. For those of you out there who have done this yourself or have had somebody else do the work, how hard is it, and does it really take that long? How much did it cost for you? This is a piece of cake for a machine shop to do UNLESS they are real goobs!! but if you didn't ask for a quote beforehand you are kinda at there "mercy"......believe I woulda told em to eat it when presented a bill for $250!! Pesky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 I guess I don't get what's so hard about it. Although I haven't done the swap yet, I'm getting ready to do it. It looks like the bolt holes just need to be reamed out a little bit. The flywheel is centered on the extension of the crank, and the bolts just attach it to the crank. I don't think any rebalancing should be necessary, since you're not removing a lot of material. I just plan on doing it myself. Somebody let me know if I'm wrong. the balancing shop I went to said it was definitely out of balance. For all I know, it was *before* I had the holes milled out. The real question is, "is it enough to make a difference?" I decided that it was important enough to get it balanced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarutex Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 After having my 2 flywheels at the machine shop for 2.5weeks , they came back. Nothing done to them. They said they didn't want to do it, and couldn't do it by my deadline of the 14th of this month. SO now what? I guess I'll try another machine shop :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 It's kinda a PITA because the EA hole are not set out in a geometric pattern. They are all on the same radius, but the spacing between them is different. So the EJ holes will be misaligned in different ways with each of the EA holes. Our rotary table wasn't big enough to hold the flywheel, so we had to use trig to plot the holes. Drilled it up, and it fit perfect. I believe you can use Ni rod or something for welding cast iron, but I may be speaking out of my arse. Seeing as I'm planning to push 160+ horse through it, I'm not in the "it centers itsself, get boozed up and dremel it out" camp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 I have an auto flex plate now, FEI. Chris, send me your flywheel in a Flat Rate Priority box and I'll take care of it for you. Should be about $90 including return shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 My vocabulary doesn't include "ad hominem", and neither did msoft word's dictionary, so I've been outclassed in an insult. Another trick I try to refrain from doing is being an A-hole. I don't know how many refrences to grab a pack/case of beer, get out the dremel/drill, and take a couple of hours to get the job done. Rims, flywheels, accesories, you name it, it's been modified while tipsy by someone. I don't drink. period. Which is a feat when living in a redneck area where the only thing to do on the weekend is get drunk. The torque and shock loading of the drivetrain is being transmitted through the sides of the bolts going into the crank. They do more than just clamp it to the crank. You want the holes as acurate as possible so that the flywheel will not work loose over time. Any play will start shearing those bolts fast. Speaking of tricks, I'm working as an automotive show pony right now. 3 competitions simultaeneously, with nationals in Kansas City, Detroit, and New York city. I've kissed my vacations, school afternoons, and summer plans untill july good by for these, and they weren't exactly volentary. It's almost enought to make me want to pass out drunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 Ad hominem is latin. It means, "to the man," and it's not an insult. It means that you attack the person rather than the argument. I was just trying to give you another option, not telling you how to do it. It's your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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