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YAY! My lift is in! - UPDATE - Installed the Tires today!
Posted 30 October 2003 - 04:48 PM
Posted 30 October 2003 - 05:01 PM
Posted 30 October 2003 - 07:58 PM
I did drill the rims, as you can see, but I don't feel that it detracts from the look of them really.
Drilling the rims does not weaken them in any way, and Mudrat has been doing it for years. I don't think that drilling the hubs weakens them either, but I also don't think I need any more than 4 lugs. I have never heard a tale told of breaking all 4 and haveing the rim fall off. In fact - I've been running my Brat with three lugs on one wheel since I bought it, and it's just fine.
It is a fact that drilling to 6 lug opens you up for more wheels - mostly non-steel tho, so I could really care less about those personally. I can get the US Wheels 70 series white (or black) wagon wheel in any size I could conceivably want for dirt cheap, and unless I were going with a REALLY big lift, and REALLY big tires, I don't see the point of going to the trouble of doing the 6 lug. I admit it's not much more work, but it is more - at least to do it right. You first have to aquire the extra lugs, and drill twice as many holes into thicker material, then you have to beat the lugs in, and unless you convert to rear discs, you have to do this all over again if you need to replace your drums. Also - if I want to take a long road trip, I can swap back on my subaru rims and small tires for that rather than eating my mud tires up.
There are pro's and cons to both, and I probably would have done the 6 lug simply because I would have been parranoid about the strength of only 4 lugs if it weren't for the fact that John has and still does many of his rigs this way, and has never had a problem.
As for beveling the holes - I did it with a dremel, and a carbide cutting bit - took about 5 minutes per rim to do it.
Zap - thanks for putting me down for the tree run - I'll be there.
Posted 30 October 2003 - 09:19 PM
If you think about it, there is no more stress on the studs... the wieght of the car never changed and therefore each rim is still holding the same amount of wieght for each tire/rim. And the rims we are using were made to hold 3/4 ton pickup trucks, so these lil' subaru's shouldnt put any stress at all on them, even tho the lugs were modified.
Rick, the tires/rims look great. I love that tread pattern and you got a SCREAMIN deal on the package. I still dont like that rear camber, but camber is my largest pet peave of all time. Cant wait to see it muddy, and hopefully it'll be in person.
Posted 31 October 2003 - 03:30 AM
woah, the drilled rims dont look bad at all, actually.
You're probably right that it don't matter, i was just curious as to how one gets a perfect taper on the holes on the rim, but i guess you already had that figuered out...
Posted 31 October 2003 - 04:42 AM
A. One doesn't - I just ground on it with a dremel till I liked the way it looked. Didn't affect the balance any - she drives straight and true at 70 MPH on the freeway.....
Posted 31 October 2003 - 04:59 AM
Posted 31 October 2003 - 05:24 AM
Posted 31 October 2003 - 10:43 AM
Where did you get tires at.....?
Call me when you got a sec.....
Later, John in Eugene.......
Posted 31 October 2003 - 11:04 AM
May just have to get you up here before the snow hits.
Posted 31 October 2003 - 02:09 PM
Posted 31 October 2003 - 07:43 PM
Posted 01 November 2003 - 04:32 AM
That pic of the right rear looks kinda funny... its it just the angle or is the wheel kinda forward of the center of the wheel well??? :cornfuzz:
Posted 01 November 2003 - 02:55 PM
Posted 01 November 2003 - 04:18 PM
Posted 11 November 2003 - 02:31 PM
Posted 11 November 2003 - 02:33 PM
Posted 11 November 2003 - 02:46 PM
With big Mud terrians I haven't noticed any problems with tire wear. Heck - I didn't notice any problems with th 175's I had on there for a while. John confirmed this - he has never had a problem either, and he's run these lifts for like 12 years. I think that negative camber in the front is more of a problem because the front tires turn. Since the rear tires don't turn, it really doesn't seem to be an issue.
Also - if you take a look at the clearance between the coil over spring, and the tire, you'll notice that with your wildcats there's about 1.5" between the sidewall and the coil. If you were to remove the negative camber, the tire would rub on the coil. I wouldn't touch it if I were you.
And no - the PK lifts are not suspension lifts, so they do not have this "problem" (I prefer to call it a "feature").
Posted 11 November 2003 - 02:52 PM
Dante, the best and easiest way to fix your rear camber is to get some regular rear shocks. Maybe get some EA81 rear shocks, and make extensions like SubaruBrat did.
Check out this link from his page:
This is something ive been thinking of doing.
Posted 11 November 2003 - 03:03 PM
If u-joints become an issue, then I'll think about "fixing" things.
Posted 11 November 2003 - 03:07 PM
on the chev rim, the 19mm stuck nuts wanted to pull thru the holes when torqued down.
21mm all around made a world of difference as far as vibration issues were concerned
Posted 11 November 2003 - 03:10 PM
Mine are Ranchos ordered to match the total length of the stock shock plus 8in.
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