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Looking like block splitting time


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So, it looks like I'll be re-yanking the engine from my XT, and splitting it to search for my lost compression.

 

Anybody have any brands of bearings/rings to AVOID?

 

I've never rebuilt anything bigger then a 4hp go-kart motor.

 

The last Subie engine I took apart is still apart, cuz the pistons are seized to the wrist pins, and I don't have the cash for new ones.

 

Any recomendations for pistons? Also, what's the company that does inexpensive cam replacment/regrinds? I thought I read on here about a place that would do it for under $50 for an EA81 N/A...but I might be on crack too.

 

The cylinder walls appear to be fine, so I think I can get by with just a good hone job. Will I need oversize rings for this? Or do I just have to check the bore when I'm done honing and see what fits?

 

And where can I get a decent inexpensive digital micrometer, for checking the crank surfaces? I have plastigage too...

 

(Note the use of the word inexpensive as opposed to cheap)

 

Fun fun!

 

Thanks

RedLance

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As long as you have it apart, you need to check the cylinders for taper and out of round. You can find inexpensive measuring equipment on the bay. If you can swing the cost, use oem parts. Search google for a source other than the dealer. I have seen new cams on the bay as well, but do not know there pedigree. Hope you don't find a broken piston, or are you past that point already? Lots of good information in the FSM. I would snag one if you can.

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GLCraigGT: Yeah, I already checked the valves...read about that saga over here.

 

PoorManzImpreza: Why, yes, that I am!

 

bbs53: It's only got 80,000 miles on it, but yeah, I will go ahead and check everything I can while I have it apart. I have been down to the short block, and the tops of the pistons look great, so I don't think any are broken. And I already have a full set of FSM for 1986, and yeah, they are awsome.

 

Thanks!

RedLance

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Well, I got the engine out last night. Pull the head off, and closely inspected the #2 cylinder walls. They are as close to perfect as you can get. Mirror polish, factory cross hatching still visable. Piston looks to be in fine shape. So, I put the piston at BDC, and poured some gasoline into the cylinder, to see if it would leak past. It never did. Safe to assume the rings are okay? Also, I bolted on the old head, and did a compression check by turning it over by hand with a socket on the front. Got about 30psi, which is more then I ever got before. Swapped the rebuilt head back on and got 60psi. Had been noticing that the cam carrier didn't really seat right when I put it on. Got to looking into that, and finally discovered that the intake valve for the #2 cylinder is .045" longer then the other 3 valves in the head. Brought both #2 valves into town, so I can have the intake ground down. I think that will finally fix it. Though I also discovered that my rack and pinion needs new boots and seals, so I'll be doing that while the engine is out, along with adding an oil cooler, and remote mount filter. And new tranny cooler lines. And tranny cooler. And a new tranny filter. And probably ball joints. Oh, and a passenger side half shaft. And I need to seal my wheels, since the tires keep going flat over about a week...And the rear air shocks leak too, but I got new mounts for the compressor...I never realized it was supposed to be that quite. :-) Then I need to get the drivers door replaced, and a paint job, and I think I'll be happy with it for a while...So :moon: to those few people who suggested I give up on it. (No one on this board)

 

Thanks for listening(reading)

 

RedLance

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  • 11 years later...

I have a 2005 legacy outback with 105k, just filled gas tank and noticed gasoline odor and spot on floor.  Gasoline dripping from metal plate located under middle of rear seat on passenger side of car.  Live in area where salt used on winter roads and had brake lines replaced in last two years.

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