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how hard to replace?


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not too hard to replace - just jack it up, and pull the front wheel off - and you can access it without problem

 

I would not recommend going JY on it tho, as it is a steering component that tends to get a lot of wear (particularly the outer part, the inner doesnt get nearly as much wear) - probably would run less than $10 if you get it at a JY

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You might want to consider doing some other front end work while you have things apart. If the TR is damaged, it is possible that other parts are also damaged/worn out. If you haven't done brakes, bearings etc in a long while, here's a good opportunity.

As far as difficulty, the more you tear into it, the easier it is to service each component. Of course, you'll have more overall time in an extensive front-end teardown. Also, unexpected mishaps like broken bolts may slow things down.

Your decision should be based on how long you intend to keep the car. A little more time and effort now for preventative maintenance will pay dividends in the long run. This is labor-intensive work, and the parts are not overly expensive. If you can swing it, do the work and be done with it for 60k or more.

good luck, John

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I don't think you'd want to go used on tie rod ends. It would be hard to find a used one with a good boot, and unfortunately, the boots are hard to find seperately.

You could actually do those without a lot of dissasmbly. the hardest part is breaking up the nut and tie rod. Also, when you put it back together your alignment will likely be off (you'll need to take it to an alignment shop).

That's why I usually do a good go-over whenever I'm doing front end work. The overall cost is lowest when you do everything in one shot.

good luck, John

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definitely buy new, these are a safety hazzard if the end joint breaks you loose control of the car. scarry looking if you've ever seen it.

 

tie rod is easy to replace. just a castle nut and ball joint on one end connected to the hub and a large nut connecting it to the steering rack/inner tie rod. essentially only have to remove 2 nuts, that's it. if you carefully note where the nut is located on the old tie rod, you can get the new tie rod installed almost identically in place and probably avoid the need for an alignment.

 

to save some posting and tangent replies, others here will strongly disagree and say go for an alignment. i let my tires tell me if i need an alignment as i have to rotate and inspect them often anyway (AWD you know), and i've never had to get an alignment. i've got about well over 200,000 total miles on subaru's with never getting alignments and my tires wear perfectly. alignments are cheap but hey if i don't need it and don't need to waste my time then all the better. and that's one thing i can't do myself, so avoids my car from ever going into the shop. so, go with what you feel comfortable with. if you don't feel you can do a good job installing the new one exactly the same as the old or don't pay much attention to your tires then get the alignment.

 

i'd get a used set of hubs and rebuild them with new seals/bearings/grease then you can swap them in place of your old hubs and not have as much down time. that's how i do it.

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to save some posting and tangent replies, others here will strongly disagree and say go for an alignment. i let my tires tell me if i need an alignment as i have to rotate and inspect them often anyway

 

i'd get a used set of hubs and rebuild them with new seals/bearings/grease then you can swap them in place of your old hubs and not have as much down time. that's how i do it.

 

Yes, if you are careful, you can intsall the new tie rod end in the exact same spot, and avoid the alignment. However, if you have trouble getting it apart, it's easy to lose track of "how many turns", or scuff up your markings. Then it becomes a crapshoot. But truthfully, the alignment is not overly critical - as long as it's in the ballpark.

The tip on keeping spare rebuilt hubs is a good one. I started doing this after a long string of broken bolts, and other mishaps that always seem to slow down front end work. I actually press the axle (along with the bearing) and swap in the whole assembly.

good luck, John

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just did all of this on my 89 GL wagon....not even a month ago.

 

1. the cheap ($10) tierod ends were "unavailable" to purchase - checked several locations - nobody could get them.

2. the mid priced tierod ends were NOT the right ones for my car - got them and had to take them back. make darn sure you are getting the right ones for your application. the mid priced ones were for manual steering - i have power steering - and yes, it does make a difference.

3. i did both sides at once...if one is gone you can bet the other isnt far behind. I usually do this sort of stuff in sets (ball joints, tierod ends, bearings, etc) - others will argue that it isnt necessary, but i figure it saves me time and effort down the road not having to do the same job again on the other side. do both sides and get it over with.

4. ALWAYS get it aligned after this kind of work. you will be much happier with the handling and your tires will thank you.

I was very careful to count the # turns taking the old ones off, put the new ones back on the same # of turns - was so far out of alignment it handled like crap on anything but dry road.

 

Good luck

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Hi, replacement is easy,knock the joint apart with a tie rod remover..or just a hammer struck on the eye of the hole.. mark where the old one wound off from and wind the new one on....and your done...the hardest part is getting used to no play...:grin:

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