boxerlover Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 This thing is driving me nuts! Here's the situation- Had poor starting problems when cold. With a little troubleshooting and some advice from general disorder (Thanks GD) the 86 wagon now lights off instantly when cold. Turns out the choke was not set right. Trouble is, now it won't idle consistently now when it's at operating temsp. It will run fine going down the road, but the first stop you make the engine will not idle and dies. And so it goes until the engine is cold again. Most of the time the engine idles erratically under about 1200 rpm. It acts like a vacuum leak, although the engine pulls about 20 inches at idle (when you can get it to idle). I'm at my wits end. There don't appear to be any vacuum hose problems- at least visually. I don't know what to do next. I don't want to drop on a rebuilt carb, and have the same problem. It could be a bad sensor. One other oddity- I pulled off the distributor vacuum line to check vacuum and there wasn't any! So, how do I tell if this is a vacuum, carb, or sensor problem. I don't really want to mess with a Weber and the hassles of conversion if at all possible, even though I realize that's probably the best long term solution. I just want the stock stuff to work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 I totally understand wanting the stock stuff to work. I've been there - very frustrating at times. First thing to do is make sure the choke is pulling off as it should when warm. You may have the choke set so hard that it doesn't open fully, and so it's not getting enough air till you rev it and the high-speed choke pull-off mechanism cuts in. That would explain your warm idle problem. Start it up cold with the air filter top off so you can view the choke plate. Once the engine starts to get warm, the choke should start pulling off (heater coil will heat up the bi-metal spring and pull the choke plate open). Tap the throttle occasionally so the choke plate has a chance to move. You want the choke adjusted such that it's barely closed when cold, and opens up as the engine warms. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxerlover Posted May 6, 2006 Author Share Posted May 6, 2006 Well, I finally figured it out. The choke was pulling off and opening fine, so no problem there. It turns out it was anti-dieseling solenoid. It was defective and closing off the idle fuel circuit. Pulled the wire, and instant idle. I've got a new one on order just to be safe. I don't much care for dieseling in gas motors. So now the old 'ru runs like a million bucks complete with a CCR rebuilt motor. The old motor had a weak cylinder and leaked oil like the Exxon Valdez. No more! I'm a happy camper! It's awesome to have an oil tight motor (a rarity in these older cars). Just a hint for others who may not be familiar with Mitchell Shop Manuals. Go to your library and see if they have them. These are the manuals that repair shops use and they are awesome. The detail is fantastic. Thanks to this board for all the help:headbang: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 6, 2006 Share Posted May 6, 2006 Interesting..... so you say you *pulled* the wire and it idles? I ask because that solenoid should be powered in order to open the idle circuit. Pulling it's wire should cut the idle circuit completely, and kill the engine... How fast is your idle set? Maybe the idle circuit is actualy clogged and sputtering fuel instead of spraying it properly.... just a guess. If you adjust the idle screw high enough you will actually open the main throttle and it will "idle" off that instead.... just usually pretty fast. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxerlover Posted May 7, 2006 Author Share Posted May 7, 2006 Interesting..... so you say you *pulled* the wire and it idles? I ask because that solenoid should be powered in order to open the idle circuit. Pulling it's wire should cut the idle circuit completely, and kill the engine...GD GD, you are right. My bad. I left out a key point. I first removed the solenoid and pulled out the actual plunger/needle and spring, and then screwed the body back in. Yanking the wire was an afterthought. That's an important clarification. It appears that the solenoid was functioning erratically. Ocassionally it would idle down to 700 rpm, but 99% of the time it would just die at curb idle. It seems that when the solenoid was working, I got curb idle. When it wasn't, I had to raise the rpm to get off the idle circuit as you suggest to keep it running. Thanks for keeping me honest. The proof of my theory will be when the new solenoid arrives in a week, but I'm confident it will take care of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 7, 2006 Share Posted May 7, 2006 Great - that sounds like your problem. Not often do I see those fail. I always put them on the Weber's that I use as well - well worth the $30 for it not to diesel in the summer. I hate that sound. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patinabrat Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Sorry to re-open a five-year-old thread, but I was just wondering where you got the part because I can't find it anywhere, at least not for an '82 Brat GL. I tried using the terminology "idle stop solenoid" because NO ONE lists an anti-diesel/anti-dieseling solenoid. Also, in case I can't find the part (only saw an "idle stop solenoid" for an '87 on E-bay), I was wondering how I can operate my vehicle without it. Just removing the plunger works, you say? So when the wire is "hot", does the plunger go in or out? It would seem I would have to find a way to keep the plunger in, not just gut the solenoid of it. Please help me from being confused! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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