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Ignition Coil Q
Posted 04 May 2006 - 10:19 AM
My tach gets a burp simultaneous to an engine burp lately. I have an exhaust fire noise out one head that goes away at about 1500-2000 rpm (I am certain it is #4 cyl).If timing belt, it would get both cyl's on one head.I have done all normal tune-up stuff (plugs, wires,rotor, cap). Before I buy, if it is problem, does a higher volt fire coil hurt the ea82? should I go with OEM equivelant coil?
I even steam cleaned engine to get rid of battery alkaline and other uknowns (causes similar aforementioned errors).
Posted 04 May 2006 - 03:30 PM
Posted 04 May 2006 - 04:20 PM
I did get jumped by rusty coil with my socket wrench (just a few min ago!) . It's time to scrap it.
Posted 04 May 2006 - 05:10 PM
Posted 04 May 2006 - 06:49 PM
My brother put some in his Nissan and killed it (head problems), I have had no trouble at all. They also saved my bro-in-laws stubborn 400ci GM with aluminum heads.I figured cast iron and aluminum together, it would be even better in all aluminum.
I ended up painting the old coil and wrapping it in electrical tape while paint was still tacky(experiment). It made no difference in how the engine runs. Prevented short circuits and crazy tach, temp guage isn't a slow yo yo anymore... 312 chores to go, and I'll be starting over like a typewriter.
Posted 04 May 2006 - 07:11 PM
Electrical Resistivity (ohm-meters):
1. Silver: 1.59e-8
2. Copper: 1.673e-8
3. Gold: 2.35e-8
4. Platinum 10.6e-8
Simply higher for platinum. A post claimed it triggered a CE light on an impreza, more than one claimed they worked just fine. I am at 22000 miles in less than a year with them, no probs.Maybe young engines and all thier cleanliness are sensitive to the resistance? I have no idea.....
Posted 04 May 2006 - 09:29 PM
Posted 05 May 2006 - 03:32 AM
Sometimes using the Seafoam trick cures these kind of problems also. Sucking some into the intake to remove the carbon deposits.
Posted 05 May 2006 - 09:35 AM
I saw aftermarket replacements with coils still just simply painted. I'll go with my hack job covered in electrical tape to the end. This could be the platinum difference (affects the coil built in resistance?)
A billion times to hear about platinum spark plugs being bad in Subarus must have at least one fact. I stated mine. Error free....:-\
Posted 05 May 2006 - 10:09 AM
Posted 05 May 2006 - 10:14 AM
Posted 05 May 2006 - 12:13 PM
I use the cheap NGK's and have no problems. I had a set of those platinum jobbies that came from a used engine I got (owner had just put them in trying to get it running ), didn't make a bit of difference. Besides that - weird slots or grooves, and strange metals on the plug electrode surfaces make it hard to clean and re-gap them later. Give me plain old plugs, a proper gapping tool, and some sandpaper any day.
Maybe they last longer or whatever, but they would have to last a REALLY long time to justify the cost. The NGK's are like $1 each :-\
I replace the plugs when I get a vehicle, and then NEVER again. They can be cleaned and re-gapped easily, and should be anyway at every few oil changes. I've never had to buy a new set of plugs for a vehicle that I have not just bought. Eventually (takes a LONG, LONG time), the electrodes will wear away to the point that cleaning and gapping is no longer possible, but I have not reached that point with any of mine.
The Accel coils used to be good but are now produced in mexico. The failure rate on them is extremely high lately. Junk. Napa sells a unit that is from the same plant that Accel used to use for theirs... do a search there is a whole thread about this.
The coil resistance is matched to the ignitor resistance - using a different coil for "more powerful spark" which is of dubious use at best anyway, is just asking to burn out your ignitor. The stock coil's work great, last nearly forever, and are cheap at the junk yard - what more can you ask for?
Get a universal V8 8mm plug wire set and make yourself two sets of plug wires from it. The stock wires are 7mm and I've had arcing problems with older wires. I just use the 8mm universal sets cause they are cheap, and the 8mm wires stand up a little better to time and fluids.
Posted 05 May 2006 - 01:23 PM
Posted 05 May 2006 - 06:57 PM
Posted 05 May 2006 - 07:33 PM
Anyway, I am still misfiring. I am at a loss.
if coil is just good or bad , and I've made old one better, I must have yet another problem.It seems like engine knocks a bit when it does it. Great idle, and really comes to life at 2800 rpm,slowly but surely, inbetween is still very important to me and local driving. I have no idea how to fix it.Spits and sputters and outright misfires, any type of plug.
Posted 05 May 2006 - 08:23 PM
Posted 05 May 2006 - 08:43 PM
The problem seems so much electrical related , ECM perhaps. There's as if to be a flim flam around max torque rpm. Sometimes it runs like a tractor trailer (very strong at lower rpms) other times it's like a dragster with fat cams rockin the engine in anticipation waiting for 10000 rpm at the green light to go.
My old DL did this just once for a few weeks. It suddenly stopped and I went another 6 years flawlessly... I don't see that happening on this SPFI. Maybe I go to junk and get old distributor and carb
Posted 05 May 2006 - 08:56 PM
Remember - it may *seem* like timing, but the fuel computer controls that....
Posted 05 May 2006 - 09:22 PM
Posted 05 May 2006 - 09:42 PM
I've done all the same test and replacements too, I'm about to change my distributor from points to ele.
what part of the coil do ground better? the part that has the resister?
anyway I was just wondering if anyone has done an upgrading grounding mod on any of these old cars? I thought that it would atleast help the ignition flow smoothly
Posted 06 May 2006 - 08:37 AM
Posted 06 May 2006 - 06:25 PM
Make sure that the coil bracket and body of the coil are clean and have good electrical contact to make a good ground to the engine.
The heat problem sounds like it is due to a clogged heater core or the heater temperature control is not working correctly. Since the engine temp seems ok along with the coolant level those things should be good. Going to a lower temperature thermostat won't help this problem. If the engine temp reading was low I would say the thermostat is stuck open but since it appears normal that should be ok.
Posted 07 May 2006 - 12:02 AM
Posted 07 May 2006 - 08:35 AM
Mine was same at cold. I did a bunch of stuff and it flim-flammed into bad at warm. Someday it will be narrowed down to the truth of it all....
I can only work with ECM and its abilities. the switch happened on mine when I finally gave engine air and less restrictive exhaust. Perfect when cool/cold. Keeping it cool all the time will fix mine, knowing electrical is good, it is the only thing left.When engine is cold it gets more fuel. more fuel needs more air.Once you have ruled out coil, etc. target these things.Is your idle good when cold? there is a screw you can tinker with on spfi unit to help it some.
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