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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Changing camber on a 2" lifted Brat.


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6 replies to this topic

#1 Phizinza

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 08:53 PM

I was thinking of getting my camber fixed on my Brat, because I am getting some road wheels for it and don't want them to wear out so quick. What is needed? From what I can see I need to change the hole positions in my strut lift blocks, and maybe modify/BFH the strut towers.. Has anyone done this? Or should I go out and just stuff the whole lot up with experimenting?

At the moment on my 2" lifted Brat I have about 2degrees of positive camber. I would like to get it to 0 or maybe and some negative.

#2 Numbchux

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 09:45 PM

do a search, McBrat has a neat graphic of where you can grind on the lift block to push it inward a bit. but it's just the inside edge, you need to find a way to move it in towards that center more.

be creative, the only realistic way to do it is to move the strut tops inward (theoretically, you could move the steering knuckles out, but that would require custom control arms, and therefore custom axles, and it would screw with your toe......yikes). Just look at how it all goes together, and see how you could make it better, keeping in mind that you don't want to change the shape of the strut towers too much, since they are a pretty serious structural part of the car. you can definately do a little pounding, but just keep that in mind.

#3 chazmataz

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 10:07 PM

i can see if i could come up with more spec for other years but the book that i have shows specs for an 87 brat and it says that they have 2-7/16 degrees positive camber +/- 3/4 a degree, w/ turbo is 2-3/16 degrees. this is for a stock rig but hope it helps

#4 VaporTrail

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 08:22 AM

grind the red areas down as much as you can...

Posted Image

and then I also use a small round file, and slightly oval out the hole in the trut tower towards the engine to give it a little more room to move inward too.

#5 monstaru

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 07:30 PM

yeah that works, and i only did the grinding on the block.

#6 Numbchux

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Posted 17 May 2006 - 12:56 AM

grind the red areas down as much as you can...

Posted Image

and then I also use a small round file, and slightly oval out the hole in the trut tower towards the engine to give it a little more room to move inward too.


that's the one!

#7 Phizinza

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Posted 17 May 2006 - 09:27 PM

Thanks. I had a real good look yesterday at it and found my struts are already rubbing the strut tower. I was thinking maybe spending some money and putting some good slim line struts in there. Any body know if this is a good thing to do, or a bad thing?




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