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1996 Legacy Outback Fuel Pump problem


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8 replies to this topic

#1 joser

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 12:56 PM

I have a 96 Legacy Outback 2.5L.

My problem is that my fuel pump is not working. I have troubleshot it and this is the information I have gathered.

I have located the FP relay and it is working. According to the Haynes manual it is the round, green relay located above the fuse box under dash drivers side. The voltage at the clip is 12v so I know its getting power. It also clicks when I turn ign ON.
This is where Im having issues.

At the fuel pump under the floor panel in the rear hatch, I have checked for power at the fuel pump connector.
It is a clip w/ 6 pins but it only has 5 connected. It looks something like this.

123
45

I have checked for power at the 1,2,3 pins and got 0v, 12v, 4.5v respectively. This is w/ the ign ON.
My confusion is this. When I remove the relay I get the same readings at the FP connector pin.

Am I getting the correct power to the FP?

Please help anyone....I cannot leave my current location (Ocala FL) and go on holidays until I resolve this issue.

Thanks
J'

#2 Cougar

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 02:29 PM

My data shows that power is tied to the fuel pump relay from a red wire on pin 2. The power is switched through the relay on a Blk/red wire tied to pin 4 of the relay. This wire then changes color to Blu/yel at the pump and is tied to pin 1. You should have 12 volts on all these points. The other side of the pump is tied to ground.

#3 joser

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 02:44 PM

My data shows that power is tied to the fuel pump relay from a red wire on pin 2. The power is switched through the relay on a Blk/red wire tied to pin 4 of the relay. This wire then changes color to Blu/yel at the pump and is tied to pin 1. You should have 12 volts on all these points. The other side of the pump is tied to ground.


Excellent.
I have power at the relay....I know that. good stuff.
Now the blue yellow at the pump should have 12v. I will check that. now.
Do you happen to have the data (web link) so I can have a look at other possible problems?
Any diagrams will be of much help.

I appreciate your help Coug!!!
J'

#4 joser

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 03:07 PM

Ok.
I have checked all the points as u said.
This is what I found.

At FP connector I have 0v at the blue/yellow cable on pos 1.

At the relay.
I have 12v at the red cable
I have 0v at the red/black cable.
The interesting part is that I have
12v at the yellow cable.
0v at the purple cable.

Now I guess that my cables may be in an incorrect order, but thats is the way they have always been.

Also...Im getting this multiple clicking sound coming from the engine compartment. I thought it may have been my alarm (car has lojack but its not activated (doesnt work)) but it is coming from different place. Any ideas?

J'

#5 joser

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 05:18 PM

I need to know if I have identified the correct relay.
The relay I took out is the one w/ the green connector. There is a relay w/ a yellow connector below it and a brown connector above it. The brown relay is square.
Reason I am asking is b/c it doesn't make sense that I have power at the relay (green), that the relay works (I wired direct to battery and check resistance at the pins that lead to the FP--it read 0 ohms), that it clicks when I put the IGN ON but that I have no power to the blue/yellow cable at the FP connector at the back.

I either have a short b/w the relay and the FP or I have selected the wrong relay.....

Pls help
J'

#6 Cougar

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 08:26 PM

Since you have 12 volts on the red wire of the relay but don't have voltage getting to the Blk/red wire of the same relay it seems that the relay may be bad. Like a switch, those two points should be tied together when power is applied to the control coil of the relay. I think the yel wire is supplying that. The coil may be open also. To see if the blk/red wire ties to the pump you could check the resistance between that wire and the Blu/yel wire on the pump. You should see a low resistance if they are tied together. This would prove that you have the correct relay also. Another thing you could try is swapping the relay with another like it to see what happens.

Edit:
After looking at my data again it appears you do have the correct relay going by the wire colors you mention. The only way to get the readings you got from the relay means it would have to be bad, so replace it. The Blk/red wire should be hot. If you want to prove it you can run a jumper lead from 12 volts to the lead. You will hear the pump run.

#7 joser

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Posted 17 May 2006 - 03:37 PM

Cougar.
Thanks to you I think I got it fig. out.
I was checking the red/blk cable for voltage and I had 12v at the cable only when I was turning the engine.
Also the only place that had CONT from connector to the relay was the blue/yellow to the black/red at the relay.
If I had 12v at relay only when turnign eng. then I fig that I would have voltage at connector only when turning eng.
I measured and sure enough I did. So I took out pump and hotwired it. It was bad.
Just bought new one and bout to install.....keep fingas crossed.
Thanks for your help as your correct wire IDs really solved this mystery for me!

Thanks again man!!
J'

#8 joser

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Posted 17 May 2006 - 11:17 PM

Done and done.
Got it running.
Thanks for all da info. This site is great and its thanks to people like you and Josh.
Cheers
J'

#9 Cougar

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Posted 18 May 2006 - 12:39 AM

Your welcome for the help. Glad to hear you got it going. Thanks for the update.




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