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Need To Tow 1987 Brat - Question
Posted 17 May 2006 - 08:10 PM
I have been in VA for the past 5 months (new job etc.). Just before leaving GA over the new year, the throttle on my Brat stuck wide open while I was driving @75 mph in Albany, GA. So I stopped the car, freed the throttle to a point where I could move it normally with my hands. The accelerator cable felt fine based on pedal feel after I freed the throttle. However, as soon as I started the car, the engine raced to redline, so I cut it off. It did this a couple of times. I believe something is stuck inside the carbureter. So I got the Brat towed home (Albany, GA) where it has been since January. Now I go back and move my family to VA next week. I plan on towing the Brat behind our 4WD Expedition, as the relocation company will not transport a disabled vehicle - and I have not had the time to rebuild or replace the carb. I am planning on getting a two wheel car dolly and towing the Brat with the front wheels off the ground. Is this acceptable and should I be wary of anything?
Thanks for your help.
Posted 17 May 2006 - 08:41 PM
Posted 17 May 2006 - 11:24 PM
Did some searching, and am finding some information. Should be alright to tow with front wheels off ground, tranny in neutral and steering wheel unlocked. I might have an issue getting it on the dolly.
Just to be sure, you might want to remove the rear driveshaft as well. It's quick and easy, and will assure your rear end and tranny are disconnected.
Posted 18 May 2006 - 03:06 AM
As for getting a dead BRAT onto a tow dolly. Disconnect the coil wires so it won't fire off, and use the starter to get it up on the dolly. Again, this will only work if it's a manual, and you may have to put it into 4-low to climb the ramps.
I have used a floor jack under the engine crossmember to lift front wheels, then back dolly under vehicle. Doing it this way, you have to align dolly by hand then hook it to tow vehicle. Also need to block rear wheels so it won't roll backwards on you. Then push dolly under front wheels using tow vehicle. Need a good spotter to do it this way, but it works.
For the racing engine speed. Sounds as if your ASV grenaded on you and there's pieces of it in the carb. Pull air filter lid and take a look down the bore.
Also check the large vacum line that goes to the Anti-backfire valve, (located on the DS strut tower). I've had one of those break, causing major vac leak. Engine wanted to do a 3G idle if started cold with choke on. Rubber hose from the valve hooks to a steel line on the backside of engine, that's where mine broke.
Posted 18 May 2006 - 04:31 AM
Posted 18 May 2006 - 06:26 AM
Posted 18 May 2006 - 08:50 AM
Basic home rebuild kit on ebay - $17 plus shipping.
Rebuilt Hitachi DPC-306
FCproducts.com - $229 plus core deposit
Carbexchange.com - $269 plus core deposit
Importcarbs.com - $219 plus core deposit...
Weber 32/36 kit with adapter - $400 from several sources..
There's also a Holly kit out there somewhere, but I didn't bother searching for it..
Sometimes the quickie home rebuild kit is all you need to get another 20 - 30 thousand miles if it's not in too bad shape...
Posted 18 May 2006 - 09:31 AM
unhook your coil wire, and use the starter to crank it up on the dolly.. i know this is rough on a starter but if your not going more than a few feet, it'll be fine.. i've had to crank mine 100 yards+ before.. same starter is still workin fine..
when replacing the carb, you can either drain the coolant, or make sure the radiator cap is sealed.. the cap holds teh suction and doesn't allow the intake to bleed antifreeze, hehe..
Posted 18 May 2006 - 06:49 PM
block and tackle
and my favorite a come-along
Posted 18 May 2006 - 08:17 PM
Posted 18 May 2006 - 08:36 PM
Posted 20 May 2006 - 07:49 PM
I was looking into the carb. problem on my 87 Brat today. Took the filter assy. off and looked into the carb with a flash light and could not see any gunk inside. I charged the battery, then tried carb cleaner spray, and started the car (after 5 months of sitting idle). It started after a few tries and the engine raced towards redline. I cut it off and on several times to get some oil pressure. However, bottom line is I am stumped as to why the throttle is stuck wide open. The carb number is DCP306-26, but the Subaru parts catalog (85-88, 1600, 1800 2D & MPV) does not even reference this number. For a Fed-MT, 4WD model, it references a DCP306-24 model. They must have had all sorts of variations in the carburetor's for these vehicles. Went to Advance Auto Parts and they have the same part number for the DCP306-26 and DCP306-27. Best thing is to rebuild mine. Will keep the group updated on progress.
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