Clutch/Tranny ? on my '88 M/T 2WD

[jimkup]

I am in the middle of replacing my Clutch. My Tranny has just over 250K miles and shifts fine, but does "growl" a bit. So, I am driving down the road the other day and she just stops pulling, like the clutch is pushed in. I coast to a stop, and am able to put it in gear without pushing in the clutch (no grinding either), but she doesn't move, in any gear.

So, I towed her home and jacked her up. As I was checking things out, I spin say the Drivers side tire, but the passengers side does not spin.

Is this situation normal?

Ok, so I drop the Tranny and find that the actual asbestos disc has broken loose from the rest of the splined hub and spring (Clutch Disc) assy.

I purchased a new Clutch Kit from the local parts house & upon inspection notice a couple of small differences in the Clutch disc Assy.

One difference is that the splined hub is about 1" shorter then the old one. The other dif is the new assy only has 4 springs while the old one had 6 springs. It appears that all other dimensions are identical or as specified in my FSM.

Would either of these cause the Clutch not to engage/disengage properly?

I called the parts house & had them double check the part & they assure me that it is the right kit and those differences are not critical. They are not specified in my FSM either.

Also, after I got the Tranny on the ground I have noticed a couple of items I am unsure of.

If I spin the Splined shaft, both drive axles spin in opposite directions. But when I spin, say the drivers side axle, the passengers side spins in the opposite direction, but the splined shaft does not spin. Also, the splined shaft has a considerable amount of "end play". I know that when the Tranny is mounted to the engine, the splined shaft goes thru the pilot bearing so maybe this is not an issue, but this is my first Clutch job and I do not want to have to do it twice!

I have a digital cam and could take a couple of pics if it would help. Also, I could call you for advise if that would be better.

Any advise on this would be more than helpful and many thanks in advance for any guidance regarding this!

[NorthWet]

Differences may just be differences, but...

 

... there is often great difficulty getting the right parts for model years 85-88(89?) due to an overlap of EA81 and EA82-engined vehicles. Sometimes it is better to ask for a part for a year outside of this range (ie - 83 for EA81, 90 for EA82). I can't remember reading of any significant clutch-disk differences between EA81 and EA82 models, though.

 

The difference of what turns what when one or the other is turned is likely to be just a matter of frictional differences.

[jimkup]

ok, thanks!

Now, after I install the new Pressue Plate and Disc Assy. to the Flywheel, and tighten the bolts, should I be able to turn the Clutch Disc Assy with the Pilot Tool?

I am able to turn it fairly easily & it does not seem to flop around or be too loose.

So does that sound about right?

This is my first clutch job so....???

Thanks again for any guidance or advise!!

[NorthWet]

ok, thanks!

Now, after I install the new Pressue Plate and Disc Assy. to the Flywheel, and tighten the bolts, should I be able to turn the Clutch Disc Assy with the Pilot Tool?

I am able to turn it fairly easily & it does not seem to flop around or be too loose.

So does that sound about right?

This is my first clutch job so....???

Thanks again for any guidance or advise!!

No. Once the pressure plate bolts are tightened down the clutch disk should be clamped tight; this is its "normal", power-transmitting state.

 

Did you install the clutch disk facing the proper direction? The "nose" of the center splines should be poking out of the pressure plate fingers, and the flat-ish side of the splines should be facing the flywheel. If the disk is in backwards the pressure plate will be unable to properly clamp on the disk.

[GeneralDisorder]

That doesn't sound right - either you need to have the flywheel machined, you have something together wrong, or they gave you the wrong parts. Check to make sure the splines on the tranny and on the disc are the same... try to slide the disc onto the tranny by itself just to make sure.

 

Don't use the alignment tool AT ALL. It will just make putting the engine back in more of a pain. Leave all the pressure plate bolts loose, and slide it onto the transmission that way. Once it's all bolted up tighten the pressure plate bolts through the starter hole.

 

As for the rotation of the shaft and outputs - that's normal for an open differential. If you grab BOTH output shafts and turn them forward you will see the intput shaft turn. This "differential" action is what allows the car to turn corners. Also means the if one wheel is off the ground the other will have no power at all.

 

GD

[jimkup]

Wow, thanks for all the advise!!! I was able to get it done without any major hitches. My bad on the clutch Disc Spinning. Was the inner portion of the pilot tool! It was my first....so it'll always be special....one I'll remember. But not so bad with great advise from the great folks here on the USMB, the FSM, & the will....

Thanks Again!!!