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Question about de-yellowing headlights (in the process now)


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16 replies to this topic

#1 fnlyfnd

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Posted 25 May 2006 - 01:25 PM

So as of right now my headlights are in the fridge....
This is my second time, in a week, since the first clear coat came out awfull.
I have sanded, buffed, and washed with dish soap so far. I noticed that the headlights lost a lot of thier clearness after I washed them. Should I buff and wash them again?? and Does it matter what kind of clear coat I use?? I have duplicolor acrylic enamel, should I be using a different kind such as: acrylic laquer or just plain ol' clear coat??

Thanks, I don't want to go through this process again for another couple of years. Got make sure I get it right this time.

#2 fastwgn286

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Posted 25 May 2006 - 03:46 PM

whoa, thats a lot of trouble to go through....

all i did was steal some cutting wax from the dealer i used to work at (you can buy or steal something similar from wally world, its called cutting fluid, and it usually says it will "remove or hide scratches"....), rub it on, wait a minute or two, and rub/buff off. then go back over with wax. the trouble i have is that i took off the headlights to do this, and wax particles got inside the assembly. so, soon i'll have to take it apart somehow and wipe off the inside....

you could try the toothpaste trick (sticky-ed at the top)....dunno about your original question....

#3 fnlyfnd

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Posted 25 May 2006 - 03:54 PM

Yea its a pia....I just sprayed one headlight, ****, I am so mad. Came out like poop again. I am going to go get regular clear coat soon and spray the other to see if I get better results.

#4 fnlyfnd

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Posted 25 May 2006 - 08:05 PM

OK I figured it out, I am the worst painter ever.

Now do you guys think i could wet sand the new clear coat w/ 2000 grit without having to do the whole process again, and keeping the clear coat intact??

#5 fastwgn286

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Posted 25 May 2006 - 08:29 PM

what's the worst that can happen?

2000 grit is really fine though, you might be sanding for a week if you messed up pretty badly....

#6 shortlid

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Posted 25 May 2006 - 09:33 PM

Buy some Plexus or Mothers Plastix it is FOR removing scratches and yellowing of plexiglass and clear plastics and protecting them!!:banana:

It was orginaly for Avaiation industry.

#7 fnlyfnd

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Posted 25 May 2006 - 09:39 PM

All my yellow and cloudiness was gone after I sanded and buffed them with polish, they looked brand new. The clear coat went on really bad, it makes it look cloudy and it feels very rough when I rub em. Its such a long process, I just want it to be over.

#8 JPX

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Posted 25 May 2006 - 09:53 PM

2000 grit sandpaper is appropriate. But it will take a long time in wetsand down the clearcoat - as it should to keep it level. In the end you will need to use a polishing compound to get that last bit of luster.

#9 fnlyfnd

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Posted 25 May 2006 - 10:26 PM

Sweet i'll take em out in a couple days to sand the clear down. Thanks

#10 shortlid

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Posted 25 May 2006 - 11:08 PM

You could put the PlastX on there to keep them from yellowing again?;)

#11 All_talk

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Posted 25 May 2006 - 11:37 PM

I wouldn't use the clearcoat, sure it could provide some UV protection but it takes years for them to yellow without it (as they came stock) and you can just sand them again. And it will only make them transmit less light.

Mine were pretty bad, I progressively wet sanded from 400 to 2000 and hit them with the buffer and polishing compound... been clear for months. And a truly clear lens does wonders for the beem pattern.


Finished buffing on one of my '92 SS lenses

Posted Image


Beem pattern on my '91 SS with the left clear and the right still "yellowed"

Posted Image


Gary



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#12 fnlyfnd

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Posted 26 May 2006 - 01:38 AM

Thats wild, never thought it would effect the beam pattern that drastically.

Stock lights do have a clear coat on them, as far as I know. After all the post that I have read, I wanted to put clear coat on the to lessen the occurance of yellowing. Everyone says that they will yellow in a few months w/o clear coat.

???????????

btw: I used platsX before the clear coat the first time. I actually found that a polish I bought from wally world worked better, its made by "kit" and is just simply called "scratch remover".
My lights looked like yours before the clear went on :(

#13 shortlid

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Posted 26 May 2006 - 09:42 AM


btw: I used platsX before the clear coat the first time. I actually found that a polish I bought from wally world worked better, its made by "kit" and is just simply called "scratch remover".
My lights looked like yours before the clear went on :(


How did you find the Plastx?? Did it improve it at all?:confused:

#14 fnlyfnd

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Posted 26 May 2006 - 11:28 AM

I found plastX at advanceautoparts, I used it as a polish after I had sanded them down. This is prolly why it didnt work well for me.

#15 Legacy777

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Posted 26 May 2006 - 11:42 AM

The stock headlights do NOT have any sort of clear coat protection on them. You can use all the polishing crap you want. They will turn yellow again.

The ONLY way to keep the yellow from coming back is to clear coat them.

If you use the 2000 grit, you may have to polish the clear coat with a rubbing compound, or possibly recoat.

That's why in my write up on the BBS, I get all the yellow off with acetone, continually use a finer and finer sand paper, and then the clear coat fills in the fine scratches....makes the lens clear again, and protects the plastic.

#16 Olnick

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Posted 26 May 2006 - 11:56 AM

I found plastX at advanceautoparts, I used it as a polish after I had sanded them down. This is prolly why it didnt work well for me.


I suspect the polishes you used left a residue that messed up the clearcoat. After your finest sanding, do a thorough degreasing (acetone, degreaser, alcohol?) and follow Legacy 777's instructions. Bet you'll have better luck.

#17 fnlyfnd

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Posted 26 May 2006 - 03:56 PM

I washed them w/ dish soap after I polished them. I'm pretty sure I just suck at painting. I'll try to sand them down and clear them up AGAIN:mad:




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