Dre Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 For the past week or so I noticed lots of shudder while braking. Guess rotors got warped. I wanted to take them off to get them turned but found it impossible since I need a huge socket to get the spindle nut off... what is the size on that socket that I need? anyone? thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 are you talking about the axle nut (big joker, usually 32 or 36mm)? i didn't think you need to remove the axle nut to get the rotor off. should only need to remove the brake caliper (both pieces) and any retaining screws on the rotor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dre Posted June 7, 2006 Author Share Posted June 7, 2006 retaining screws? there were none on the rotor and it looked to me like the whole thing is one piece... I did take the calipers off but didn't even touch the caliper frame cause IMO it was not necessary since I could not get the rotor off like that... unless I'm mistaken and the rotor should just slide off the spindle - with a little help of course... :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 i didn't think these has retaining screws but wasn't sure. older soobs do. unless i'm mistaken i think the rotors should come off if you take the caliper bracket off. let someone else chime in but that's how it usually works. newer ones usually have no problem coming off. some taps with a rubber mallet if it's stuck at all. if you jack the front of the car off and try to turn each front wheel slowly you can probably isolate which rotor is warped and only replace that one. you'll feel the wheel "catch" at one point of the rotation. this is the bad rotor. make sure your caliper slides are greased well and the piston moves in and out fine. a sticking caliper will heat up and warp the rotor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dre Posted June 7, 2006 Author Share Posted June 7, 2006 I might try again tomorrow... it looked thought that the spindle nut holds the rotor as well. The reason for my concern is that I also own an Explorer and in order to take the rotor off on that truck you need to remove axle/spindle lock nuts. thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smpol19 Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 Just remove the caliper; the rotor should then slide right off. If once the rotor is removed the caliper does not come off, it's just rust holding it on. I believe you can thread a small screw into a hole on the OEM ones to force them off or you could just use a mallet or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dre Posted June 7, 2006 Author Share Posted June 7, 2006 I'll try that later today... I took the car to Merlin Mufler and brakes and they quoted me $340.00 for the brake job... rotors too thick to get them turned... pads almost gone. I think I'll replace those rotors and pads myself... should not cost more than half of that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMattyD Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 On my car, you remove the top and bottom caliper bolts, and you may have to remove the caliper bracket, and you can then pull the rotors off. I do not know of any late model subarus in which you have to remove the 32 mm axle nut. If the rotors will not easily pull off, you can use a hammer to dislodge them, since you will be replacing them, or you can thread the lower caliper bolt (that you removed from the caliper) into the small threaded hole on the hub of the rotor and tighten it, which will push against the wheel hub and separate the rotor from the hub. I believe there are two or three threaded holes for that purpose. I replaced my rotors about 3 mo. ago, so my memory is already starting to fade. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outback_97 Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 Matt's right, there's usually a couple of threaded holes you can use. 8mm bolt, about 2 inches long I believe. Here's a link: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87 It's for upgrading the brakes on an RS, but most Subies are set up similarly. They're like Legos, the parts are interchangeable. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Boncyk Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 Unfotunately many aftermarket rotors do not come with those drilled, threaded holes. If you don't happen to have them, then the rubber mallet and lots of time are your only remaining option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9pec Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 Sometime brake "shudder" isn't caused by by warped rotors, but uneven brake pad deposits on the rotors' surface. I would confirm that the rotors are actually warped before going straight to turning them. Turned rotors have less mass and will have less ability to disperse heat. Also, hot, thinner rotors have more tendency to crack/warp when come into contact with cold water splash. If the rotors are not warped, scrubbing the surface clean and put in new pads and follow proper bedding-in procedure will help. Do not use ordinary sanding paper! The abrasive materials are mostly alum-oxide and they will make things worst! I used 3M-Garnet Paper for rubbing and followed with Synko's Rotten-Stone for final polishing on rotors before each pads-change. Good results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Boncyk Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 Hey, 9pec, Right On! You do understand the physics and chemistry of brake pads!! I would venture to say that MOST times this kind of brake shudder can be cleared up with a simple sandpaper hone of the rotors, especially if the problem has shown up within a few hundred miles of pad replacement. New pads, especially the organic ones, need a proper break-in or they will deposit melted pad material on the rotors. After just a small amount is stuck on, there is a tendency to build more and more material in the same spot because the pad material there acts as a thermal insulator -- which then just melts more material at that spot, so the shuddering problem gets worse with time. Truly "warped" rotors can happen, but actually bending the rotor steel takes vastly more heat than this simple pad melting thing, and so often happens only after severe braking (like that done going down steep mountain roads) or after moderate braking is done with rotors that have been turned too much, which leaves too little steel behind to conduct away the heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dre Posted June 15, 2006 Author Share Posted June 15, 2006 I'm done with brakes... didn't even check rotors before replacing them. Just bought new rotors and new pads and replaced everything in an hour. 14mm to remove calipers, 17mm to remove caliper brackets, nice size hammer to get the rotors loose and I'm done. Good thing you mentioned that I should check for deposits on rotors after a while. I might want to take the wheels off and send/hone rotors with some fine sand paper down the road. Question though... after replacing rotors I have noticed that old rotors would not fit into original boxes that my new rotors came into. Is it possible that I bought rotors for a Legacy? FLAPS mistake? Is the size difference noticable? I have no problems with brakes, they work great (well, for Subaru anyway)... brakes are not really a Subaru's strong side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.