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Guest Message by DevFuse

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broken crankshaft???

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48 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_pat1234_*

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Posted 22 July 2003 - 04:10 PM

Just got back from dealership......they say I had a broken crankshaft and that I needed a new motor! What a bad day...... only 96,000km on it!

The dealer recommended I call SUBARU and see what they could do for me....probably not much!

Is this normal to break the crankshaft at such mileage and that it requires a whole new motor?

They told me that it could be a few days to a few weeks before it seizes...I have a road trip planned for next week........new 2004 subbie...thinking about it!

Here are the symptoms

When in neutral and I slowly give it some gas I eventually get a clattering noise like the dreaded piston slap but much louder and harder

If also does it when I floor it from a stopped position. It also does it on the highway usually starting at 90 km/h at a certain rpm.... when it makes the noise and I let go on the gas pedal it stop.

I listened to it under the hood when someone slowly gave it some gas and it seems to come from the top of the engine... almost like a clicking/slaping sound.

The car run fine, except for the noise!

I have a 97 legacy gt with 97,000 KM




#2 Guest_cookie_*

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Posted 22 July 2003 - 04:23 PM

You may have several pretty bad things going on, but if it still runs fine a broken crank is unlikely.
A broken piston or a rod bearing going maybe.
Regardless it is time for a teardown by a competent mechanic.

#3 Guest_ShawnW_*

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Posted 22 July 2003 - 04:39 PM

ccrengines.com is a good place to get a motor. they are busy right now though so I am not sure what the turnaround time is.

#4 Guest_spagemurray_*

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Posted 22 July 2003 - 08:29 PM

Broken crankshaft and still running? I dont think so. Get somebody competent to look into it. I just got a new clutch free 6mths out of warranty (Australia) so push hard for free fix.


#5 Guest_giboufou_*

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Posted 23 July 2003 - 06:32 AM

Check the crank pulley to make sure its not coming loose. Use a 22mm socket (or 7/8") to see if the bolt turns. If its does turn, tighten the hell out of it. The one on my 98 O/B came loose and ripped apart the key on the crankshaft and the keyway on the pulley, if a mechanic checks a book to tighten it, chances are he will not put enough torque to it.

They quoted me a new engine too, all it needed is a new pulley and a pin in the crankshaft. Runs fine now.

#6 Guest_LeoneTurbo_*

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Posted 23 July 2003 - 06:39 AM

Maybe the dealer meant a 'worn' crankshaft? That means worn bearings and a damaged crankshaft.

If it was broken (into two pieces) your car would not be moving. At all.

#7 Guest_Legacy777_*

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Posted 23 July 2003 - 06:58 AM

Ditto all the responses to get a competant mechanic to check it out. If the crank was cracked your engine wouldn't run. Period.

The bottom end on subaru's are very strong, I would say it's pretty uncommon for the bottom end to go on these motors.

#8 Guest_LeoneTurbo_*

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Posted 23 July 2003 - 09:49 AM

Bearings OK, but cranks? No way!

#9 Guest_Dinero_*

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Posted 23 July 2003 - 12:35 PM

The crankshaft in Subaru engines are forged from Chromium-Molybdenum (CroMo) steel. This is an expensive and extremely strong alloy. Under normal conditions, I don't think you could break one on a bet. If it is broken, it is almost certainly the result of a manufacturing defect.

#10 Guest_Legacy777_*

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Posted 23 July 2003 - 01:03 PM

Just to add to the crankshaft issue. The subaru cranks are half as short in comparison to inline engines, so the amount of deflection seen in the crank is minimal if not zero.

#11 Guest_pat1234_*

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Posted 23 July 2003 - 02:13 PM

Dealership told me it was broken and that it was just a matter of miles before the motor will sieze up! I made a complaint to subaru custer servise and the rep called me back today...... he shrugged off the problem saying the car is 6 years old and a crankshaft problem/defect would have broken after day 1 when it was new..... said it was due to imprper maintenance..... I took offense to this as I take very good care of it...all sythetic fluids everywhere.... frequent oil/filter etc changes!

The sound is very loud at certain rpms......see 1st post for description of problem

I love my subbie....but I had too many problems with it....just recently a coil spring broke..... weird steering wheel problem (subaru says is normal!!!.....whatever!), oil seals leaked, piston slap, weird coolant toye leak under car....3 different dealers never found a problem.....only found on the snow in winter, oil pressure sensor leaked all over the engine....

Seriously thinking of changing cars.... and not staying with subaru in fear that a new 2004 will cause me problems later.

I went to a different dealership to get a trade in quote....... giving me $11,500 cdn as opposed to subaru giving me $10,000. They test drove it and never saw the problem!

I would get another opinion but scared that the car braks down as the subbie dealer really reved it up to listen to it...thought it was going to break down in front of me. I am trying not to use it as subaru said it will seize up any second or minute...... have put about 50 kms since yesterday.

don't know what to do!


#12 Guest_pat1234_*

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Posted 23 July 2003 - 02:16 PM

may check pulleys tonight.........hope it is the cause......I did get the T-belt changed about 2 months ago.........thnks for the comments/suggestions!

#13 Guest_hocrest_*

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Posted 23 July 2003 - 03:44 PM

Subaru dealer says the crank is broke and is willing to give C$10,000 for a 97 with 100,000 Km??

Does that seem high to anyone else??

#14 Guest_pat1234_*

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Posted 23 July 2003 - 03:50 PM

sorry.... misleading.... 10,000 cdn as trade in with working motor...... did not tell them as I wanted to know what I would get if i fixed it. I told them after about the problem and the said they could arrang something with servicing if they took it with the motor as is.... would most likely give me 10,000 minus the cost of fixing. They would fix it and then sell it!

The $11,500 from a different manufactuer is the same...... they never noticed the problem after driving and inspecting the vehicle...... check to see what I could get for it in case I trade it in as is.... or after fixing it


#15 Guest_spagemurray_*

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Posted 23 July 2003 - 05:36 PM

Broken crankshaft where was your vehicle built??. We just dont have all these quality issues with Subes in Australia (Jap built). Clutch shudder yes (free fix available) and a couple of head gasket and clutch slave cylinder problems dealer tells me but they look at this forum and can't believe all the trouble people here have. Subaru Oz usually win the annual uality survey in a tussle with Honda. Dealer service is just phenomenal, their motto here is 'you will never buy from another manufacturer" and they mean it!. As this is my 24th vehicle I've dealt with just about any manufacturer you can think off but Sube make the rest look awful bad. Dealer told me Sube US making improvements but appears a long way to go. I'd hang in there.

#16 Guest_pat1234_*

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Posted 23 July 2003 - 07:50 PM

My vehicle was built in Japan...... I was happy to buy it for this as I heard that the Japan built ones were better than US made ones....just what I had heard before buying..... starting to think it wasn't true .....

Subaru is about to lose a dedicated fanatic about their cars because of my lemon..... I wanted a get a WRX in the spring...... may buy another Subbie in a few years once I really see if the WRX motor is reliable a few years down the road...... not going to get caught with a lemon again!


#17 Guest_spagemurray_*

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Posted 23 July 2003 - 08:58 PM

Bought new or used? If used any service records? At 75,000kms mines like a new car still except for slightly floaty OEM shocks and I bought it with 62,000kms on it. WRX's are everywhere here and I hear very reliable. Hope yours is a cheap fix.s

#18 Guest_snotrocket23_*

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Posted 24 July 2003 - 07:00 AM

Ok, not exactly the same vehicle, but here goes...
My friend chris had a 1974 Bronco with a 302 out of some ford car. He drove it everywhere, even after it started making this knocking noise. It got worse and worse, and he started looking for a replacement engine. He continued to drive it, however. One day, while peering under the hood, we noticed his belts seemed loose. Pulling on a belt revealed that the balancer was moving. The crank had broken at the first crankshaft web, but in such a way that the timing chain and all the accessories were still turning. So what do you do? Hold it to the floor until the b*tch blows up! Which we did. Then we swapped the motor...:rollin:

#19 Guest_Legacy777_*

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Posted 24 July 2003 - 07:26 AM

hahahaha.....gotta love watching motors blow up :rollin:

#20 Guest_spagemurray_*

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Posted 24 July 2003 - 04:47 PM

Only done that once it was in an Austin 1800 (threw a rod). Firrst and last time I hope.

#21 Guest_Frag_*

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Posted 25 July 2003 - 08:47 AM

Spage, you mean the big square box with FWD and hydraulic suspension ?
I owned one a long time ago and it was a nice car (MGB engine mounted sideways - even the rad was sideway) but the cables between the trans and the shift stick kept leaking.
Other than that, I really enjoyed this car.
Threw a rod on an Austin Marina, but that's another story.

#22 Guest_uhohru_*

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Posted 26 July 2003 - 06:17 PM


Sounds to me like you have a VERY SIMILAR problem as me. I just have a few questions:

when starting up a hill when you feel the torque, does your engine start to "clinkity-clink-clink"

If you floor it going uphill/downhill @ low RPMs will it "clink" on occasion?

If you dont wind your engine up enough to go when releasing the clutch, will your engine make a "clack clack clack" (sort of like a piston slap noise) ?

Does it sound like a deisel?

Do you have EXCESSIVE valve noise?

Does your car backfire on a regular basis? (after changing plugs, wires, etc)

Does your car backfire on de-celleration?

Do you have to drive your car a certain way to prevent it from backfiring?

Does 3,800+ RPM's feel "weak"?

These are the main problems im dealing with.... please reply.

#23 Guest_spagemurray_*

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Posted 27 July 2003 - 08:07 PM

Clink sounds like pinking (pre ignition) which is not good. Poor quality fuel, incorrect timing, combustion chamber deposits etc. Also Subes require regular throttle body cleaning with their special cleaner. Sounds like an Auto-Rx clean wouldn't go astray either. Sure perked mine up!

#24 Guest_uhohru_*

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Posted 27 July 2003 - 11:31 PM

clink, pink, and tink...... yep.

#25 Guest_spagemurray_*

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Posted 27 July 2003 - 11:58 PM

Get a bottle of Auto-Rx from www.auto-rx.com and add to current or clean dino oil with mandatory new filter. You will notice a difference in 50 miles and reduction or elimination of pinging Theres a 3 for 2 deal on right now. My OB is having a 3 bottle cleaning regime now. Smoother quieter and more power. Money back guarantee too. Definitely worth a go IMO.

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