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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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broken crankshaft???


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48 replies to this topic

#26 Guest_uhohru_*

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Posted 28 July 2003 - 04:34 PM

Im almost 90% positive that the additives wont work, ive used some of the more common ones such as Zmax, Duralube, Prolong, and motor up... ya they will make the motor shut up for a while, but the same noise keeps coming back.


my vote: new motor.

#27 Guest_spagemurray_*

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Posted 28 July 2003 - 08:50 PM

Auto-Rx is not an additive its a cleaner which is revolutionising auto maintenance. US defence, NASA, etc using it and we buy it by the caseful. You wont believe the crap removed from my OB which only has 75,000 highway kms on it. My business partner in Melbourne has a forklift service business which has gone ballistic since I introduced him to RX. Same all over the world. As i said give it a try.

#28 Guest_pat1234_*

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Posted 30 July 2003 - 10:29 AM

I dont think it is the same. I only here it when I floor the car or above 3000rpm. It does sound like metal hitting metal.

The deal has now confirmed that the problem is the crankshaft bearing which is dying on me and is lose. I am looking at either getting a new motor or refurbishing my motor as it is in good condition (minus the problem)......until I figure out the cost and what to do I just bought a new 2004 Mazda 6s (v6 with the sport package)...so my subbie lies in the driveway as I find out prices. .....wait and see it subaru can help me....if not then change motor or refurbish the current motor!

I am also writting to subaru to find a fix for the problem as this is not normal at 97,000 km!!!

pat

#29 Guest_spagemurray_*

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Posted 31 July 2003 - 05:57 PM

Mazda 6 is nice. I have a 626 turbo for oil/fuel/additive etc testing. Bulletproof it appears

#30 Guest_uhohru_*

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Posted 31 July 2003 - 11:34 PM

oh so its basically the lower end going out?

#31 Guest_Meeky Moose_*

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Posted 01 August 2003 - 06:53 AM

its always been my experience that when your crank is broken, your car won't run at all..


if your just getting knocking sounds, it may just be as simple as rebuilding the bottom end.. just my .02

i once blew a motor up for fun... was an 83 chevy citation, had a rod knock.. so i floored it to watch it blow.. it blew, threw #3 rod right out the front, hole about the size of a large softball, rod cap out the bottom of the pan.. and the damn thing kept running.. could rev it and all, was just missing 1 cylinder.. :rollin:

#32 Guest_uhohru_*

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Posted 01 August 2003 - 04:12 PM

it has always been my experience that a broken subaru will always get you home......

#33 Guest_uhohru_*

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Posted 07 August 2003 - 04:22 PM

bump

#34 Guest_pat1234_*

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Posted 09 August 2003 - 08:03 AM

I have now finished the draft letter to subaru HQ to see what they can do for me on my faulty crankshaft bearing...... will keep everyone informed on how it worked out. If they cannot help me out I will really be pissed as I know this problem is definately NOT due to bad maintenance or abuse as I have babied my subby and have done all preventative maintenance on time and many of them well in advance just be be sure..... so I believe that they should help me on this unusual rare problem on a 97 legacy with less than 100,000 KM.... about 60,000 miles!

Pat

#35 Guest_Hondasucks_*

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Posted 11 August 2003 - 12:51 AM

Is your car an automatic? Does the soudn go away if you back off teh gas? If so, I bet you have a cracked flex plate. It's what is bolted to the end of the crankshaft, that the torque covnerter bolts to, equivalent to a flywheel only thinner. They crack in the center, and it makes a horrible racket, but it will go away if you back off the gas. I don';t know what one for a Soob runs, but the one for my dad's 64 1/2 Mustang was like 80 bucks. Lots cheaper than a motor!

#36 Guest_pat1234_*

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Posted 11 August 2003 - 09:56 AM

yes it is an automatic and it does stop if I let go of the gas ...... only rattles at 3000 rpm and above.

I have been told that it would most likely be the crank bearing that is bad and at higher rpms it becomes unbalnced/lop sided and begins to rattle metal on metal.

Will wait till subaru answer my letter...untill then it just sits there in the drive way!

Pat

#37 Guest_uhohru_*

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Posted 11 August 2003 - 03:26 PM

you can rattle stuff when applying heavy torque, ie... under 3000 RPM's, hauling 2 people with moderate weight up a steep (35 degree plus) incline. :rolleyes:


Alteast I can...

#38 Guest_snotrocket23_*

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Posted 12 August 2003 - 10:36 AM

I have a friend that had a 95 cherokee. It knocked and clunked and made a terrible racket. Sounded EXACTLY like main bearing knock. I pulled the oil pan and all the bearing caps. Nothing but perfection.
I was kinda pissed at this point, and I was looking for ANYTHING that would make noise. Started prying at the flexplate, it moved around. Broken in a complete circle around the crankshaft hub. It had been doing this for a year!
Put a flexplate in it, and 8 hours later, someone got in her lane and almost hit her head on. She took it "down through the woods". Even upside down, that engine purred like a kitten. Smooth as silk.

#39 Guest_uhohru_*

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Posted 12 August 2003 - 04:55 PM

flexplate?

#40 Guest_snotrocket23_*

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Posted 13 August 2003 - 06:38 AM

It is a circular stamped metal plate with the starter ring gear welded to it. The automatic "flywheel". They tend to crack around where they bolt to the crankshaft hub, and they make a hellacious racket.
If you (or the dealer) pull the motor for replacement, inspect this first. Thousands of dollars cheaper.

#41 Subaru Maker

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Posted 20 August 2003 - 12:23 AM

Just a few quick comments: 96 engines were built in Japan with only some final dressing from the half-engine done in the U.S. factory. Full assembly has been done in the last few years in Indiana, but the crankshaft comes in already machined and just has the connecting rods, bearings, key and balls installed before installation into the block.

#42 Supaglu

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Posted 20 August 2003 - 05:33 PM

Hi,
If you get this "noise" by revving the engine to 3,000rpm - then why not try this - get someone to rev the engine till you get the noise - disconnect each of the injectors in turn to see if the noise either goes away or gets a lot better - if it does then it will be somewhere in the bottom end - if not it may well be the flexplate as previously suggested.
This will also tell you which cylinder the problem bearing, piston, big end etc is on.

#43 Caboobaroo

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Posted 21 August 2003 - 02:43 AM

from the sounds of it, it probably is the flexplate. I've been told that it sounds exactly ike a rod knock. We had one come into our shop a couple years ago and everyone was saying it was a rod knock. My boss checked the flexplate first and it was complelty broken off and spinning around. We were all amazed at how it was able to start. Before you drop the pan, either pull the motor out or dop the tranny out and look at the flexplate. Who knows, that might be whats wrong and I think its about 100 bucks or so for a new flexplate (I know its about 60 bucks at NAPA for a Ford 260)

#44 calebz

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Posted 21 August 2003 - 11:32 AM

Flex plate is definitely worth looking at.. I have cracked/broken a few.. although never on a soob.. It does sound surprisingly like a rod knock

#45 josh long

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Posted 22 August 2003 - 07:52 PM

I had a 97 legacy GT it threw a rod bearing at around 75,000 mi. If you look at impreza.net and do a search and you will see this was a problem on a # of the 2.5l engines. If this is your problem find a used block I got one for $300 2 or 3 years ago.

#46 pat1234

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Posted 13 September 2003 - 10:16 AM

I am glad to say that my subby is now at the dealership getting ready to be fixed after it sitting in the driveway for about 5 or more weeks collecting spider webs between the tire and body and on the mirrors!

I got an answer from Subaru Canada saying that as an act of good will they are willing to fix the vehicle even if the warranty is over. The deal is that Subaru Canada will pay 1/3 of the total cost of repairs, the dealership 1/3 and I will pay 1/3.

Right now the estimate is $4200 cdn so it will cost me $1650 taxes incl.

They will change the short block and all components inside. The block itself will be a subaru refurbished short block (dealer said it comes from the factory) and all other interior components like pistons, rods, crank, etc will be brand new.

All in all I am greatful that subaru is standing by their product and are continuing to upholding their good customer loyalty to their products as now with the issue resolved I will remain a subaru entheusiast and not turn my back to another subaru and am planning on purchasing the WRX or STi next summer (will wait for the winter to finish as I do not want to buy it right before all the salt hits the roads)!

I will update once I get the legacy gt back next week!

Pat

#47 sprintman

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Posted 14 September 2003 - 02:15 AM

I got a free clutch 6mths after warranty expired. Which other manufacturer looks after you like that?

#48 pat1234

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Posted 16 September 2003 - 04:34 PM

picked up my car today..........runs great....runs like a car with a new short block!!

just have the 2 front coil springs to change. They are changing the 2 front coil springs because one broke and they are going to pass it under the coil spring recall from a while ago.

Pat

#49 Nug

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Posted 17 September 2003 - 06:51 AM

So what was the final diagnosis?




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