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Now my Outback is overheating


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21 replies to this topic

#1 Boddi

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Posted 09 June 2006 - 05:01 AM

Hi all and thanks for all. Now i have heating problem, in normal driving everything look right but when a drive a long high-pitched hill the temp. gauge start rising, when it came to almost red zone I stop the car and wait for a 10 min then the temp gauge was in normal again. Next time i drive the this hill I put heater system on full blow and the heat control on full heat. this was helping to keep temp. gauge rising.
There is are normal liquid level in cooling system, both fan is working.
Next I like to do is change the thermostat.
the car has been drive round 45 k
Thanks

#2 mtsmiths

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Posted 09 June 2006 - 07:51 AM

Hi all and thanks for all. Now i have heating problem, in normal driving everything look right but when a drive a long high-pitched hill the temp. gauge start rising, when it came to almost red zone I stop the car and wait for a 10 min then the temp gauge was in normal again. Next time i drive the this hill I put heater system on full blow and the heat control on full heat. this was helping to keep temp. gauge rising.
There is are normal liquid level in cooling system, both fan is working.
Next I like to do is change the thermostat.
the car has been drive round 45 k
Thanks


Sounds like classic airlock, have you recently done some cooling system work? SEARCH the site and find out how to 'burp' the cooling system. It's very important to get ALL the air out of the cooling system, you're stressing the head gaskets and will end up with HG failure.

#3 Boddi

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Posted 09 June 2006 - 09:02 AM

No work on cooling system or the engine for a long time, I just finish change thermostat, everything look ok but when I drive up the hill the temp gauge start rising.... :(

#4 grossgary

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Posted 09 June 2006 - 09:20 AM

how old is this vehicle?
the radiator could be plugged up.

no coolant loss?

are the fans turning on when the car starts to overheat?

i'd look into the radiator being plugged. when the car is warm...feel the hoses and make sure both are hot to the touch. a clogged radiator will often result in one of the hoses feeling "cold" to the touch.

after that i'd think about the water pump....not sure on how to test it.

#5 J A Blazer

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Posted 09 June 2006 - 09:34 AM

Did you use an OEM thermostat? Many stories of non-OEM thermostats not working properly.

#6 nipper

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Posted 09 June 2006 - 10:34 AM

Yoe changed the thermostate? go back and get an OE thermosta if you didnt install one. Next get the airpocket out of the engine, thats the cause of your trouble.
Why did you change the T-state in the first place.
What year is this car. Another possability is a cloged radiator or low on coolant. Good news is that since you have hot heat its not a Head Gasket.
Are your cooling fans operating

nipper

#7 Boddi

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Posted 09 June 2006 - 11:46 AM

Yoe changed the thermostate? go back and get an OE thermosta if you didnt install one. Next get the airpocket out of the engine, thats the cause of your trouble.
Why did you change the T-state in the first place.
What year is this car. Another possability is a cloged radiator or low on coolant. Good news is that since you have hot heat its not a Head Gasket.
Are your cooling fans operating

nipper

Yep has change thermostad got OE, how is the best way to get airpocket out of the engine ? this is 2003 Outback. No it has full coolant but maybe some isolate inside. What will best way to flush the cooling system ?

#8 nipper

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Posted 09 June 2006 - 03:14 PM

Yep has change thermostad got OE, how is the best way to get airpocket out of the engine ? this is 2003 Outback. No it has full coolant but maybe some isolate inside. What will best way to flush the cooling system ?


ive always filled up the cooling system with the car running and thermostat open(thats how dad taught me), In all my soobies ive never had a air pocket. Another popular method is to drive the car on ramps and fill it.
i think your owners manual will point out the bleed points, if not somone wil chime in. i think there is a bleed valve on the top of the radiator, not sure.

nipper

#9 Boddi

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 08:41 AM

Hi all, what can went wrong in the waterpump or is it maybe belt tension some is wrong. The upper hose is so hot i Can not hold on in for a few sec but the lower hose on the radiator is not as hot I can hold on it by my hand.
If i put heat to full on HVAC SYSTEM and the fan on full temp stop rising.:-\

#10 nipper

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 09:19 AM

sounds like your cooling fans arent coming on. The radiator flows from the bottom to the top, so i would double check the thermostate agauin, it may be in backwards. Another possability is a clogged radiator, but that is usually a hot bottom hose and cool top hose.


nipper

#11 Boddi

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 09:50 AM

sounds like your cooling fans arent coming on. The radiator flows from the bottom to the top, so i would double check the thermostate agauin, it may be in backwards. Another possability is a clogged radiator, but that is usually a hot bottom hose and cool top hose.


nipper

Nipper, cooling fans is allmost all the time on, it is more like the circulation of the cooling liquid is unsatisfactory, two things, lose traction on belt which drive the waterpump or to hevy to turn the waterpump. Some broken in the water pump..... if the waterpump lose traction on the belt maybe the Autamatic belt tension is broken. How about that Nipper

#12 nipper

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 10:02 AM

what year and whats the mileage on the car. i know you daid 45k but cant tell if that is how long you have owned it or thats total mileage on the car. If its 45K total on the car its WAY too early for either problem. If the waterpump drive belt was loose the timing belt would junp. Timing belt drives the water pumo.
What eyar make engine tranny and mileage is on the car please

#13 Boddi

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 10:33 AM

what year and whats the mileage on the car. i know you daid 45k but cant tell if that is how long you have owned it or thats total mileage on the car. If its 45K total on the car its WAY too early for either problem. If the waterpump drive belt was loose the timing belt would junp. Timing belt drives the water pumo.
What eyar make engine tranny and mileage is on the car please


the mileage is now 45.000 mile when i got it the mileage was 15.000 mile. Yes it is WAY too early..... but this is my problem today :( I have read almost all service manual to figure out what is broke or what is not working right.

#14 nipper

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 10:40 AM

the mileage is now 45.000 mile when i got it the mileage was 15.000 mile. Yes it is WAY too early..... but this is my problem today :( I have read almost all service manual to figure out what is broke or what is not working right.


is the car still under warrenty? Has the car had any major work done to it?
The symptons dont make sense to me, but im leaning more and more to a clogged raditor. Thw difference in the hose temp tells me there is no flow. ON the other hand the forced running of the cooling fans cools the car down. The more i think about it the more i think your radiator is cologed, but the questions is why?
Do you have a stick? What does the coolant look like? What color is your engine oil?

nipper

#15 Boddi

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 11:41 AM

is the car still under warrenty? Has the car had any major work done to it?
The symptons dont make sense to me, but im leaning more and more to a clogged raditor. Thw difference in the hose temp tells me there is no flow. ON the other hand the forced running of the cooling fans cools the car down. The more i think about it the more i think your radiator is cologed, but the questions is why?
Do you have a stick? What does the coolant look like? What color is your engine oil?

nipper

ok, nipper the car was sold to Iceland from USA and all warrenty lost. yes I belive it has some major work before i buy it. Few minuts ago I open the time belt cover and on the back side on time belt did not look good, and when I start the motor a strange noice come from the waterpump, so definitely something is wrong with the waterpump. :rolleyes:

#16 nipper

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 01:07 PM

ok then we can pretty much write off the milega on the car as being accurate. i dont expect a waterpump to go bad till over 100,000 miles.
Then you have a bad waterpump, and if the car had some major work done, then i would suspect a cloged radiator too.
If somone here has a carfax account it would be interesting to run the vin # and see what history comes up. i bet it wont be pretty.

nipper

#17 blitz

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 01:48 PM

Another popular method is to drive the car on ramps and fill it.

Since the engine is already on an upward incline and the coolant-crossover outlet-pipe is centrally located, raising the front of the vehicle will most likely encourage even more air to get trapped toward the top of the front water jacket than it already does.

Usually I bounce the front of the vehicle hard with my knee while raising the RPM to dislodge and chase those stubborn air-pockets back toward the outlet.

I'd imagine this happens automatically during driving.

**** ******!

#18 Boddi

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Posted 26 July 2006 - 06:35 PM

Hi all, yep Nipper i have change waterpump and belt tension, but it did not change. Next move is cloged radiator. today i drive about 400 mile and one every hill I have to turn on heating fan put it to max heat and max blow and that work out to keep the engine from overheating. But it was very hot inside the car, I have to open all the window to survive .....:burnout:

#19 Pillowsplat

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Posted 29 July 2006 - 12:48 AM

Hi all, yep Nipper i have change waterpump and belt tension, but it did not change. Next move is cloged radiator. today i drive about 400 mile and one every hill I have to turn on heating fan put it to max heat and max blow and that work out to keep the engine from overheating. But it was very hot inside the car, I have to open all the window to survive .....:burnout:


A couple of posts back you stated the upper is hot and the lower hose is cool. That means the thermostat is not opening because of a lack of flow. airlock
Remove the radiator cap and warm up the engine and let it run for 20 min with the cap off. Watch for bubbles coming out the filler neck. You can massage the hoses to aid the process. Keep topping the filler neck off. At some point both hoses should be warm when the airlock moves and the thermostat opens.
Good Luck.

#20 Setright

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Posted 29 July 2006 - 01:57 AM

And just to be accurate:

The coolant flow into the top of the radiator. When the thermostat opens the water pump draws in coolant through the lower hose and mixes this with the warmer stuff coming back from the engine block.

#21 Boddi

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Posted 14 August 2006 - 06:14 PM

And just to be accurate:

The coolant flow into the top of the radiator. When the thermostat opens the water pump draws in coolant through the lower hose and mixes this with the warmer stuff coming back from the engine block.

Last Friday I put new radiator and that fix my heating prob. When the workshopman open the old radiator we see it was almost all clogged. Now my outback run fine.:clap:

#22 Olnick

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Posted 14 August 2006 - 08:27 PM

Last Friday I put new radiator and that fix my heating prob. When the workshopman open the old radiator we see it was almost all clogged. Now my outback run fine.:clap:


Yay! There's happiness in Iceland. Way to go, Boddi!




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