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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Looking to buy late ninties - early 2000s Outback


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15 replies to this topic

#1 heep70

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Posted 19 June 2006 - 07:42 PM

I am thinking about buying a late ninties - early 2000s Outback wagon. I would prefer a manual trans, 4x4 or AWD.

What are the pros and cons?

What is the better year?

Price range?

I here the 2.5 engines have head gasket issues? (so does my 86 :mad: )

What about manual tranny problems?

Let me hear it all. :banana:

Any input in leading me the right way is welcome (to buying an Outback).

Thanks

#2 J A Blazer

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Posted 19 June 2006 - 07:59 PM

The body style changed for year 2000, so my recommendation would be to get that year, at the earliest.

#3 J A Blazer

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Posted 19 June 2006 - 08:03 PM

Regarding price range, I did considerable shopping before I bought mine 3 months ago. It is a 2000 Outback wagon, base model. I bought it from a local dealer. It was a one-owner, with most of the service records. Well-maintained, no issues. 'Sub-frame recall' and 'coolant additive' had been timely done and documented by the dealer. 85,000 miles. I paid $9,600 which I considered a good deal. I've fixed a few minor things, nothing major. Very happy.

#4 heep70

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Posted 19 June 2006 - 08:15 PM

"sub-frame recall?" :confused:

#5 Commuter

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Posted 19 June 2006 - 08:25 PM

"sub-frame recall?" :confused:

Was that the "cutting off the tow hook loops" under the front bumper to prevent curbs from triggering the air bags? :eek: Just guessing... Someone will know.

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#6 fnlyfnd

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Posted 19 June 2006 - 08:34 PM

OUtbacks dont have the tow hook recall. I think the subframe recall is something to do with a faulty weld.

I didn't think 2000's were subject to the coolant addidtive. I thought this started in '01. With '00 still having the internal leak??


Manual trannys are simpiler and more reliable by default. The autos can develop a torque bind, but the manuals are sensitive to the gear oil you put in it. The 2nd and 3rd grind are common. There is a clutch shudder up until '02 (i think)....no biggie, just replace the clutch with a new version exedy clutch, when the time comes.

Dont worry about the recalls, if or when they are fixed your all good

#7 nipper

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Posted 19 June 2006 - 09:38 PM

OUtbacks dont have the tow hook recall. I think the subframe recall is something to do with a faulty weld.

I didn't think 2000's were subject to the coolant addidtive. I thought this started in '01. With '00 still having the internal leak??


Manual trannys are simpiler and more reliable by default. The autos can develop a torque bind, but the manuals are sensitive to the gear oil you put in it. The 2nd and 3rd grind are common. There is a clutch shudder up until '02 (i think)....no biggie, just replace the clutch with a new version exedy clutch, when the time comes.

Dont worry about the recalls, if or when they are fixed your all good


The leak was external for the conditioner not internal.
Actually the manual is yes and no. The manual may seem simpler, but its awd system has a lot more parts then the automatic. The autos get torque bind, where the #1 cause is lack of maintanence (easily fixed with a fluid change). When the manual gets torque bind the game is over, and its an 800.00 repair.
Subaru has always seemed to have a weaK 2-3 synchro (maybe they rarely used third gear in japan when they designed the synchros way back when). CLutch chatter can be annoying.
Headgaskets affect 15% of the 2.5L pre 1999? then can leak internally, after that year externally (i may have the date wrong) either way its a major repair. Unlike other cars once they are fixed, they are fixed.
Good news, the cars dont seem to rust outside the rustbelt and are billet proof, and the normal wear items for other cars seem to last forever. Its rare a balljoint, exhaust system, or tierod has to be replaced, struts for the most part seem to last a long time. They are simple cars in comparison to other cars. They love mud and snow and are almost unstopable in either. They have decent performance. They are very safe cars (they take hits that sometimes you really shouldnt be able to walk away from, me included).

The usual topics that come up (keep in mind most on this board have well over 100,000 miles on thier cars):
head Gaskets (less and less of a topic)
Piston Slap (its a subaru noise we all grown to love)
Oil Leaks (change seals with timing belts and never have a problem)
Timing Belts (maintanece questions)
Fuel gauge (we may have found a nice additive fix)
climate control lights
Emission electronics (simple system)
Torque bind (less and less of a topic)
Wheel bearings (maintanence item)

Engines will last for ever. Automatic trannies seem to be lasting just as long. Manuals people live with the bad synchro (and it doest come up a lot)

hope that helps.

nipper

Speaking of which, has anyone hit the 400,000 mile mark yet?

#8 heep70

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Posted 19 June 2006 - 10:00 PM

Well it sounds like the newer Subarus have the same basic problems as the older Subarus just at a higher technical level so to speak. I was hoping that I could get away from the HG issues I seem to be having all the time on my 86. I don't mind the usual maintinance issues.

What is the usual mileage for the HG to go?

#9 nipper

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Posted 19 June 2006 - 10:04 PM

Well it sounds like the newer Subarus have the same basic problems as the older Subarus just at a higher technical level so to speak. I was hoping that I could get away from the HG issues I seem to be having all the time on my 86. I don't mind the usual maintinance issues.

What is the usual mileage for the HG to go?




its only on 15% of the subarus, so dont panick. On an aluminum engine, typically anything over 130K i would just blame on wear and tear on any engine. My 1997 obw has 184K on the original HG.
I never heard of an 86 with a HG issue.

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#10 heep70

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Posted 19 June 2006 - 10:13 PM

its only on 15% of the subarus, so dont panick. On an aluminum engine, typically anything over 130K i would just blame on wear and tear on any engine. My 1997 obw has 184K on the original HG.
I never heard of an 86 with a HG issue.

nipper


Yep, blown HGs or they get cracks in between the valves. Here like you said, it doesn't happen to all of them and it comes from ware and tare and/or abuse and neglect.

Is it a big issue to pull the engine and do the work yourself?

So then my best bet is to look for a 2001 or newer model with and auto tranny?

Are there different engine displacements?

How about R&P gears and lockers?

#11 Commuter

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Posted 19 June 2006 - 10:22 PM

Speaking of which, has anyone hit the 400,000 mile mark yet?

Over 300,000 miles now (just shy of 500,000 km) on my 97 Outback. But... (big but)... second engine. And I'm not convinced that the second engine is going to last a whole lot longer than the first. Oh well...

It's a little tough to swallow at times when I put 712,000 km on a 1985 Civic and never touched the engine other than a timing belt every 100k. (I know... I had an exceptional car. Sometimes you get lucky... sometimes you get a Subaru where head gaskets and con-rod bearings fail.)

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#12 nipper

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Posted 19 June 2006 - 10:23 PM

Yep, blown HGs or they get cracks in between the valves. Here like you said, it doesn't happen to all of them and it comes from ware and tare and/or abuse and neglect.

Is it a big issue to pull the engine and do the work yourself?

So then my best bet is to look for a 2001 or newer model with and auto tranny?

Are there different engine displacements?

How about R&P gears and lockers?


hehehe lockers you funny :)

engine is simple to work on and pull out. Seems even the newbes can do it.

go to www.cars101.com that will tell you specs. There is the six but i dont remember when that came out.


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#13 heep70

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Posted 19 June 2006 - 10:58 PM

They didn't come with LSD?

Thats a cool link. I will have to do some ready around on that. Thanks

#14 nipper

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Posted 19 June 2006 - 11:05 PM

They didn't come with LSD?

Thats a cool link. I will have to do some ready around on that. Thanks


LSD is nice, but with an automatic you can get better traction by lightly applying the barkes and ther gas if your truly stuck. But its hard to get truly stuck

nipper

#15 Steves72

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Posted 19 June 2006 - 11:54 PM

My suggestion is to stay away from vehicles equipped with a moon roof - the Limited Edition. I had my used 2000obw at the dealers twice, in my first two years of ownership, repairing leaks associated with the drains that are supposed to channel water to the outside of the car. It's not much fun to watch water pouring into the interior of the car when its raining out. Also no fun to come out after a hard rain to find the entire back of the car wet.

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#16 fnlyfnd

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Posted 20 June 2006 - 10:55 AM

You can usually flush the drain lines with a drainX or something. Even a big wire or cable like 4ga could be shoved down the tubes if there is a blockage.

Back to the topic at hand....Right 15%, I always think that it is more since all the post on here, of course there are millions of people that don't post here and don't have the problem. My friend for instance has 120k-ish on his '99 legacy and had no problems. He doesn't even keep it well maintained.




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