superu Posted June 26, 2006 Author Share Posted June 26, 2006 Nice! It looks lke youe got the same closeness in the rear as did I, but i still had the stock 175 70s on there... Looks good, I'm psyched to see real meat under it now... OK, so question... How do you link/upload the pics to the message, rather than as attachments? I have to keep deleating my attached photos to bring more in.... here's pic of forester struts on legacy springs for the rear (reference the previous posts to see stock and full forester parts vs. this, the final product) I think the legacy springs mellowed out the rear such that it sits level with the front... I know, i know with forester parts all around its higher with more clearance in the rear, but its not my car... So just the mellow 2 inches all areound is fine... but now i have rear forester springs sitting around, heh heh heh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayn3ver Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 well, to load pics via html into your post, the board makes it is. Just click the little yellow mountain and copy and paste the URL of where your pic is. I uploaded mine to the USMB and then copied the urls from each individual pic. The code to do it by hand is something like <img src="filename.gif" align=left/right width=XXX height=XXX border=XX alt="text"> where you fill in all the "x"s and "filename" with appropriate information. i actually think my rear tire is sitting closer than yours. Its gonna be interesting fitting my SSR's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 1) sayn3ver, i hate you... because that is HOTT.... and red.... 2) To make the ssrs fit.. you're going to have to either beat the snot out of that area w/ a BFH, or take a sawzall to it. OR... try to adjust your caster... but not many people go that route... :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayn3ver Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 my brother's friend has a plasma cutter. And like zapar, i plan to run washers on the rears, because the clearance between the strut and the rear tires is pretty close already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strat Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 two thoughts regarding the closeness to the front of the rear wheel well... 1. are the forester trailing arms longer than the impreza/legacy arms? if so, that might allow the wheel to be more centered in the wheel well? 2. if not, could the existing trailing arms be lengthened to help clear the wheel well? i may have to look into getting some forester springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 Or, the somewhat expensive option... Adjustable length trailing arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MountainBiker Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 1. are the forester trailing arms longer than the impreza/legacy arms? if so, that might allow the wheel to be more centered in the wheel well? Post your measurements, and I'll compare that to my Forester, if you wish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strat Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 it's pouring right now... but once it dries up a bit, i'll go measure mine. sany3ver... how much clearance do you have under the rear diff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayn3ver Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 havent measured the clearence yet. They make adjustable stabilizer links, no djustable trailing arms that i know of. that would be wicked awsome though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 weld extension into trailing arm,just make sure that the steel will bend long before the weld breaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 sayn3ver, so wait, do you have the AA lift kit installed yet or not??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Oh and I just checked, the forester and impreza trailing arms are the same FYI (its easy to check stuff like that when my impreza is parked next to a fxt in the garage, lol!) Oh, and the easiest solution i think for the trailing arm would be a spacer where the pivot point bolts onto the chassis... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strat Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 mine measured about 21" from bolt to bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 Yeah I swapped for shorter springs which let the tire go back a little... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...0&d=1150778988 should shows the tire close to the front (as is yours) with all forester parts... i actually think my rear tire is sitting closer than yours. Its gonna be interesting fitting my SSR's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 mine measured about 21" from bolt to bolt. Hmm, I got about 20.5 bolt to bolt, straight line, although there is a slight curve in the arm... Man, seems a little more complicated to get it just right than just swapping struts! All stock, I was at 6" rear diff to ground all forester struts and springs i was at 10" rear diff to ground forester struts on legacy springs i am at 8" rear diff to ground See previous post of IMP, LEG, FOR springs lined out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 Clunking solved To get rid of the clunking caused by the rear strut shaft moving in the tophat/mount, install an M30 hardened washer (16 MM flat washer) between the upper mount and the stock washer and nut when attaching the strut shaft stud through the tophat/upper strut mount... Order of events: 1. with spring compressed, slide spring over strut shock shaft, seat in lower spring perch/seat 2. extend strut shock shaft to maximum length and clamp vise-grip at the bottom, snug agaist upper plate of strut frame 3. slide upper spring perch onto shock shaft/stud, and swivel such that the smallest ditance to the outside of the spring seat lines up with where the shock shat is closest to the strut body (by the lower spring seat) 4. slide upper strut mount onto shock shatf/stud 5. slide large washer (m30) over stud and seated in the upper stut mount/tophat 6. add factory washer and locking flange nut to stud 7. tighten it up 8. carefully decompress spring and seat properly in upper spring perch... put the strut in the car, attach the strut to the wheel, etc. etc. when you put the car on the ground, the extra washer will take up the play that exists in the taller collar of the forester strut stud that's not in the IMP stud (see previous pictures as well) that takes care of the clunking and the shock is securely mounted to the upper strut mount/tophat!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezapar Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Sweet write up. Do you any kind of feel like GOing thru this thread and Summarizing it all so we can add a Q and A to the FAQ? (I'll put your name on it) lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 how thick of a washer? i may just make one out of some stainless on the lathe and no.. i'm not going w/ the for. struts & king springs... i may just end up using stock for. springs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayn3ver Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 sweet. i'll get on that tomorow while i have the struts out anyways because i am gonna massage my rear fender wells. How thick? Ugh, just when i thought i didnt have to take those struts aprat again. i also need to fix my driver side window and passenger door lock. ghey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 Its a big mutha! Its like 2.5-3mm deep, the hole measures 16mm and the outside 30mm... You won't actually have to remove the strut from the car or take it strut apart.. With the three upper mount studs bolted to the car, you shold be able to vise-grip the shock shaft and crank the stud bolt loose, from in the car... Then lay this fatty washer in there (I think I just used one), against the strut mount/tophat, then the regular washer (a slightly smaller outside diameter, gold-ish jobbie that comes with the impreza setup) then the nut... Crank 'er down and you'll be golden.. happy trails! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayn3ver Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 sweet. i thought it had to go under the upper spring perch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 Yeah, none of that... The upper perch sets on the shock shaft collar, the mount sets on the perch, the washer sets in the mount, then the stock washer and nut.. I know what you mean though about the desire to not pull those things apart if you don't have to! Good luck! sweet. i thought it had to go under the upper spring perch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayn3ver Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Ok, so i put an addtional washer under there today. I called around and no one had an m30 or w/e, so i took the washer i got with the strut and went to ace hardware. I picked up a washer with the same inner diameter with an outter diamter that was a bit wider and the ring itself was broader. I used the new washers from ace + stock washer then the nut. It look like it gave it enough space to elevate the nut so it applies pressure to the washers instead of merely threading all the way down the treads on the shock. Went out and tested it. I still have a clunk. I poked around under there with the car in several different postions trying to flex the suspension out. It looks like the lower spring perch boot(goes under the spring) rubs the inner wheel well but it feels like the actual strut clears. Reguardless, i am gonna pick up 2 more washers and see if that will do the trick. If not, i am gonna bang the wells with a BFH. If that doesnt work i might have to take the struts out and take them to a mechanic to see if i seated them correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 Hmm, that's a BFBummer!! My lower spring perch, and i think a ring or 2 of the spring hit the car wall, when It's off the ground, but i think there's a miniscule amount of space when lowered onto the ground... Maybe the different (lower) height with the legacy springs allows for that room... On my legacy (lifted on OB stuff), the outback strut and spring also touches the wall, when in the air, but on the ground there's no rubbing and never had any clunking... I think this might be the forester spring curse... While yes its taller, maybe its too tall (for the rear at least)... But if the BFH works and you're cool with beating, then beat away!! The added washer(s) are useful though, as you pointed out, the nut seats on the washer rather than just thrading all the way down on the stud, w/o clamping anything... I did get the washers from ace, in the little plastic pull-out tray... maybe I'm making up the M30, but the outside diameter is 30mm and the inside whole diameter is 16mm... Ok, so i put an addtional washer under there today. I called around and no one had an m30 or w/e, so i took the washer i got with the strut and went to ace hardware. I picked up a washer with the same inner diameter with an outter diamter that was a bit wider and the ring itself was broader. I used the new washers from ace + stock washer then the nut. It look like it gave it enough space to elevate the nut so it applies pressure to the washers instead of merely threading all the way down the treads on the shock. Went out and tested it. I still have a clunk. I poked around under there with the car in several different postions trying to flex the suspension out. It looks like the lower spring perch boot(goes under the spring) rubs the inner wheel well but it feels like the actual strut clears. Reguardless, i am gonna pick up 2 more washers and see if that will do the trick. If not, i am gonna bang the wells with a BFH. If that doesnt work i might have to take the struts out and take them to a mechanic to see if i seated them correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MountainBiker Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 If you guys are hitting when off the ground (on a jack or stand) then you will also hit occasionally when driving. Why not make it so it doesn't hit ever? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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