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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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cant find it in the book


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6 replies to this topic

#1 7point62fmj

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Posted 25 June 2006 - 08:55 AM

Ok I am trying to use my idots guide for my subaru to help me fix a leak that I have in my rear diff where my main drive shaft meets it.
But the only thing the book shows is how to take off the drive shaft. It does not say any thing about a leak where the drive shaft meets the diff. My friend belives that there is a seal that I need to replace. So what I need to know is if there is a seal and the part #. Or is there a page # in the book that shows how to fix the leak. Or point me in the right way to finding it.
In till then I am going to go back to the search button and look agin.
Oh I have a 87 brat gl 4 speed.
Thanks as always:burnout:
John

#2 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 25 June 2006 - 09:12 AM

If you take the driveshaft bolts out and drop the shaft off the diff you will see a large nut. Take that off and you should have access to the old seal - remove it and match it up with a new one by the numbers on it, or go to the dealer for the seal.

Frankly - easiest to just snag another diff.

GD

#3 7point62fmj

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Posted 25 June 2006 - 02:29 PM

I live in the mid west and it really is not that easy to find parts..
Thanks for the Info Dis order. Help full as always:headbang:
so any body want to give it a shot what the part number is for the seal:confused:

#4 [HTi]Johnson

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Posted 25 June 2006 - 05:21 PM


Frankly - easiest to just snag another diff.

GD


How so? You still have to remove the drive line to replace the diff, and then the axles, hanger and 2 nuts in back.(not to mention that the seal is less than $10 and differentials go for at 3 times that amount, unless you're lucky)

Replacing the seal should just involve taking drivline off and a nice impact gun.

BCA Part # 1173 Is the seal, I think, is it called a pinion seal? Again, it RockAuto has come through with it! They pay me for these plugs, but good service gets good reviews. click here for the direct link to the part.

Hope this helps,
-Justin.

#5 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 25 June 2006 - 05:52 PM

Replacing the seal should just involve taking drivline off and a nice impact gun.


Yeah - shouldn't really be too hard. Just a lot of folks don't have impacts, and that nut in particular is large. If you do it with the wheels on the ground you might get a breaker bar on it.

GD

#6 7point62fmj

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Posted 25 June 2006 - 07:51 PM

I do have a impact. One last thing. I was told if I tighten down the nut to tight that my gears would wine (for the rear diff) but I should be able to find the specs for toruqe in a haynes.
Thanks MR Hit and Disorder.
You have all been realy helpfull
:drunk: to you

#7 Silent Bob

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Posted 25 June 2006 - 08:24 PM

I do have a impact. One last thing. I was told if I tighten down the nut to tight that my gears would wine (for the rear diff)
:drunk: to you



That's the catch, that nut sets the preload for the pinion bearing and overtightening it will cause your differential to self destruct rather quickly.

The basic procedure involves measuing the amount of torque it takes to rotate the pinion yoke/flange BEFORE you take anything apart. Then remove the nut and yoke or flange and replace the seal. Reassemble and then tighten the pinion nut carefully in small increments, measuring the rotational torque until you reach the amount you started with originally. You will need a beam-type torque wrench that measures inch-pounds.

-Bob




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