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Posted 18 July 2006 - 01:42 AM
So here is the dilemna...the red and yellow wires coming into the fused box (supposedly constant and ignition power) are being fed from a blue/yellow and a green wire. I can't find blue/yellow in any of the wiring diagrams and am thinking that it is more of the chop job install that took place on the old stereo. The reason I am asking is that the old stereo only turn on AFTER the brake was applied (then it would stay on). I am about to reconnect the wires and thought I'd post and see if anyone had any wisdom to share. It would be cool if I could remedy that little "feature". I'm moving ahead tomorrow, so I'll let everyone know what I find.
Posted 18 July 2006 - 06:30 AM
Posted 18 July 2006 - 09:35 AM
Posted 18 July 2006 - 11:38 AM
Posted 18 July 2006 - 03:52 PM
Posted 18 July 2006 - 09:32 PM
Okay...the stereo is in and it is deader than a doornail. I suspect it has something to do with the power. I think I am going to need to completely rerun the wires for the power. Yeah, well I probably should have done it in the first place.
Physically getting the deck into the car was the easy part. Taking the door panels off for the speaker wire was trickier. You have to remove the arm rest, the surround on the lock and door handle (CAREFULLY) and then pop a little pin off of the shaft of the window crank. The proceure takes 2 small screwdrivers. Once that little pin is off thecrank is easily removed and the door panel pops right off. From there the wire is routed through the door to the rubber conduit that stretches between the door and the car body (use the old wires to pull the new wires through) and then it routes under two panels at the bottom of the dash. It's pretty straight forward once you get it all apart. I'm going back in so I'll take a few pictures to illustrate.
Posted 18 July 2006 - 09:33 PM
swing it by when your done, I'd like to see the progress...
How about Friday afternoon?
Posted 18 July 2006 - 11:03 PM
Physically getting the deck into the car was the easy part. Taking the door panels off for the speaker wire was trickier. You have to remove the arm rest, the surround on the lock and door handle (CAREFULLY) and then pop a little pin off of the shaft of the window crank. The proceure takes 2 small screwdrivers. Once that little pin is off thecrank is easily removed and the door panel pops right off.
Don't old soobs use the same c clip thing that GM and chrysler used for years. I could have sworn I took one apart with my cheapo GM window crank removal tool.
Posted 18 July 2006 - 11:42 PM
Posted 19 July 2006 - 12:04 AM
yep, the GM crank removal tool works too.
Where can I get one of those? Are they still available?
Posted 19 July 2006 - 05:04 AM
Posted 19 July 2006 - 07:06 AM
my car had a hatchet job done on its stereo wiring before i got it so took me about a half a day to get everything sorted out and hooked up correctly, and the speaker wiring was on of the biggest issues.
and a test light is your best freind in these situations.
Posted 20 July 2006 - 02:53 AM
thats all i meant i guess i wasnt too clear on that, my bad.
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