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Proving market value of an SVX? omg help!
Posted 24 July 2006 - 04:55 PM
Posted 24 July 2006 - 07:03 PM
i have been shopping for svx's for a while now and without any info on year, etc etc it seems about right
Posted 24 July 2006 - 07:07 PM
L Styles (TMV® Dealer Retail: $2,607)
LS Styles (TMV® Dealer Retail: $2,665)
LSi Styles (TMV® Dealer Retail: $4,172)
Granted, these are averages and not specific to your area, but it should be obvious where the $2,600 figure came from.
If it's an LSi, you have a chance at making a case for more.
Posted 24 July 2006 - 07:53 PM
Posted 24 July 2006 - 08:11 PM
My response to your original post in this thread was to point out where the insurance company probably got their figure, which I thought might be useful information. I'm sorry that you've suffered a loss, but that doesn't excuse the attitude.
[...]SO WTF YOU GOT TO SAY NOW!
What I've got to say now is: "Please stop swearing at people who are attempting to be helpful."
I suspect you might need to point the model differences out to the insurance company. Good luck.
Yeah, it's an LSi.
Posted 25 July 2006 - 12:36 AM
Posted 25 July 2006 - 06:56 AM
Yeah I'm on SVX net.. getting about the same response.. which is funny.. because.. when I bought it in Sep '05 with 185k on it the bank and KBB was perfectly happy with it being valued at 3,775/6,625 (1,225 depriciation for mileage) and my bank and KBB is perfectly happy backing me up that with 207,000 miles my car is worth 3,625/6,475 (1,375 dep. for mileage) that being wholesale/retail ... now the insurance company is saying WITH $1000 depriciation for mileage they only want to give me 2,600. ??????????????????????????????? Dead center of wholesale/retail WITH 207,000 miles is 5,050. SO WTF YOU GOT TO SAY NOW!
What is with the swearing, its not my fault the insurance compnay is paying a game.
i've been through this with Travelers, and its a tough nut to crack. You need to show how much it would cost to replace the car, not the blue book value, and hold your ground. You need to use newspaper ads, and other sources of info on the value of the car. get the banks statement in writing. Check your state laws on how it works. some states you have more leverage then others. Also if you can run out the clock arguing with them, you may have a better chance of getting your price.
i got shafted on my legacy, but i also had injuries to deal with so i didnt have the energy to put up two fights at once. When my legacy got totaled, they pulled up the cars entire histroy (information not even carfax had) and told me there were three prior claims on it (possibly glass) and that that took away from value of the car.
Save your swearing for people who are working against you, not trying to help, otherwise you may find no one wanting to help you.
Posted 25 July 2006 - 02:28 PM
Next time you buy a used car don't pay more than the actual cash value. Even then you still get screwed.
Posted 25 July 2006 - 03:51 PM
if the accident was your fault then you're more at the mercy of your insurance company. i'm not surprised at all at $2,600 figure. i'm not saying they don't cost more, only that i'm not surprised.
take the money and buy this one for half the $1,300 (or talk him down):
then you'll have $1,300 in your pocket minus flight and gas or shipping ($500-$800).
Posted 26 July 2006 - 08:47 AM
Posted 26 July 2006 - 09:03 AM
please don't send me a "WTF" for saying this ...
And the reason I'm so upset about it all is I still owe $4300 on it..
but without gap, the insurance company doesn't have to pay you the payoff (imagine if you only owed $100 on the car and that's all they payed you). they just have to pay you what it's worth.
and while I'm sure your car was indeed worth more because of it's condition, it's hard to say what the car is worth with no rust, or new transmission, etc- because people put different value on these things. but if you say you got the car appraised last year, show that appraisal to the insurance company. I got to think that would be an "objective" number used to determine the value of the car.
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