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Timing belt issue question


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15 replies to this topic

#1 sajara

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Posted 30 July 2006 - 05:41 PM

Howdy,

In the process of replacing timing belt b/c of a weird noise. Can see now that the belt is about 1/8" off the track at "idler" & "idler 2" (as denoted in this picture at page 5 of this PDF file: http://endwrench.com...BeltEWWin05.pdf). The belt is on the track the rest of the way around the course.

Does anyone have any idea what would cause the belt to go off track at that position?

Thanks!

Natalie
1996 Outback 2.2L

#2 sea#3

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Posted 30 July 2006 - 05:53 PM

Did you check the idlers before you installed the belt? #2 idler are known to wear , if the bearing on that idler is worn it will tip up and push the belt out

SEA#3

#3 sajara

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Posted 30 July 2006 - 06:02 PM

Right now we just got to the point of viewing the existing timing belt & noticed how it's off-track. We haven't removed it; we are wondering whether we can just realign the belt at this point or should we go ahead & replace it? FYI, it's never been replaced & the car has 120k miles. . .probably a stupid question re: should we just go ahead & replace. . .

We will check the bearing on idler 2. Thanks!

#4 svxpert

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Posted 30 July 2006 - 10:35 PM

<<We haven't removed it; we are wondering whether we can just realign the belt at this point or should we go ahead & replace it? FYI, it's never been replaced & the car has 120k miles. . .>>

replace the timing belt with a subaru one, its time for one, don't skimp on the belt. you'll get a 105,000 mile one that will fit your application. check the pulley, idlers for bearing noise. replace if needed.

#5 porcupine73

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Posted 31 July 2006 - 11:26 AM

After you get the existing belt off, spin all the idlers with your fingers and make sure they're smooth. Also try to slide the idler in and out to feel for play. Also try to rock the roller in all directions. Basically if there's any roughness or freeplay or it's leaking any grease then it's probably a good candidate for replacement. I'd also check freeplay on the water pump. I'd also try to wiggle the cam sprockets and just make sure nothing is loose in there.

Also I think that era 2.2 had an issue with the screws coming loose on the backside of the oil pump so that might be something to look into as well while you've got the timing belt off.

#6 sajara

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Posted 31 July 2006 - 01:57 PM

Also I think that era 2.2 had an issue with the screws coming loose on the backside of the oil pump so that might be something to look into as well while you've got the timing belt off.


Thanks so much for your info. I have a couple more questions. First, I believe the screws/bolts are loose on the oil pump. Is it the two bolts that point down? (Anyone know where a diagram of this may be?) And what is the fix for that? Are there o-rings or what?

Also, we're replacing the water pump; should we use any silicone or gasket sealer on any of the screws?

Thanks!!

#7 porcupine73

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Posted 31 July 2006 - 03:00 PM

Hi Natalie, I think the screws that tend to loosen up on the those oil pumps are the rear case/cover screws. To get at them, the oil pump must be removed. Be sure all the bolts are removed from the oil pump housing, then there are a few pry points to get screwdrivers or small pry bars on there (don't scratch the mating surfaces of course). (I missed a bolt at the bottom middle of the pump when I pried it and bent the pump casing :slobber: ....new oil pump for me! :) ) It doesn't take much force to break loose the seal (if all the bolts are out! :-p ) Then slide it off the crank (after sliding off the crank sprocket). Be careful with the radiator if you didn't remove it, or put some thick cardboard over it to protect. Then you'll see like 6 phillips head screws on the back casing. I'd just take them out and then check the rotor clearances with a feeler gauge while you're in there. I think one of the Subaru articles said to put the screws back in with red threadlocker. If you don't have a service manual, you could get an AllDataDiy subscription; I like it and it has basically the OE manual info&diagrams from what I can tell. There is an o-ring on the oil pump between the pump and block. And of course put in a new front crank seal when putting the oil pump back on. I believe Permatex Ultra Grey is the sealant to use when putting the oil pump back on. Torque specs are in the service manual.

I just replaced my water pump too but didn't use any gasket sealer on the screws. There wasn't any sealer on the one that was on there. Just used a new gasket and little blue threadlocker on the screws when I put them back in. I did put some Permatex non-hardening gasket dressing (#2 I think or something) on the new gasket to hold it onto the new water pump while I mated it up to the block. Oh and the service manual has a tightening sequence for the bolts on reinstallation too. You might as well put in a new thermostat & gasket while you're at it if it's more than a couple years old. --Louis ;)

#8 sajara

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Posted 03 August 2006 - 12:30 PM

Okay, we're nearly done. But new problem: the rubber gasket on the timing belt cover is totally too big & we cannot figure out why -- wondering if the wrong one was installed originally or what. There is no way to line up the gasket with the bolt holes -- there's at least a 1/2" of slack. Are we doing something wrong here? (Also posting as new thread; sorry for the repeat.)

#9 Wayne Boncyk

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Posted 03 August 2006 - 05:44 PM

That slack comes from the gasket swelling,which happens when it gets soaked with oil. My recommendation is to replace it with a new, dry one. It is a subie part, so it isn't cheap, but that's a whole lot easier than trying to stuff a swollen gasket into a space too small to accept it. (Just my personal experience -- after spending hours trying to get the old one to fit without pressing too much on the cover to allow a good seal, I broke down and bought a new gasket.)

#10 avk

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Posted 03 August 2006 - 09:48 PM

I have one extra lower timing cover gasket, still in a bag, p/n 13594AA011.

#11 sajara

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Posted 09 August 2006 - 10:57 AM

Thanks all -- we just got a new one. Sorry I didn't see the above post before buying one from the dealership. :-| Thanks, everyone, for all the help w/the questions we had. :)

#12 sajara

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Posted 15 August 2006 - 11:07 AM

new question followed the directions lined up the marks on crank and both cams but not sure if we have top dead center right tried to start but back fired should we reset everything and turn the crank 360 or how is thwe best way to make sure we are lined up properly

#13 porcupine73

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Posted 15 August 2006 - 11:39 AM

Are you sure you lined up the correct timing marks? I think on mine there are a few different markings on the crank sprocket and cam sprockets. I think the crank timing alignment as per the manual is actually a bit off tdc (to keep from banging the valves into the pistons.) If you still have the old belt that might be good for comparison and/or count the teeth.

#14 michaelbteam

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Posted 18 August 2006 - 11:27 AM

Dumb question from new user--how do I post a new thread? My question is, how tight should my water pump be on my 2.2? Thanks.

#15 porcupine73

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Posted 18 August 2006 - 11:38 AM

I think you have to be in the forum threads display (but not in a thread itself) and then click 'new thread' at the top of the screen.

#16 michaelbteam

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Posted 18 August 2006 - 11:57 AM

I think you have to be in the forum threads display (but not in a thread itself) and then click 'new thread' at the top of the screen.

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