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We have a 95 Subaru Legacy LSi with a 2.2. The crank seal is leaking and the crank is worn. In most cars, we install a CR Redi-sleever to make up for the wear. Nobody we've talked to has a listing for this car. Any suggestions short of replacing the crank would be appreciated. KathyK

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Chicago Rawhide also makes industrial repair sleeves which are called speedi-sleeves. I'm willing to bet they are identical to the sleeves you have been buying, but are sold by size rather than by a listing of engine they will fit. They exist in any size you can imagine, with a single part number only covering a shaft size range of a few thousandths. If you know the exact diameter of the shaft in the seal contact area, you can buy a CR speedi-sleeve from your local bearing supply store or probably some automotive stores. They may even cost less, as they are not so much a kit, but a sleeve and a driving tool. You may need to cut a piece of plastic or metal pipe as an extension piece to drive the seal from beyond the end of the crank snout. The chicago rawhide website shows a lot of this stuff in pretty good detail.

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I see. THen the belt covers are not a luxury and one has better maintain the covers' seals. Always thought of them as a protection for the timing belt, but indeed bad covers could have a catastrophic effect on the crank.

Always learning...

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I s___ you not, I saw a zip-tie wear through stainless steel braiding on some aircraft-quality stainless steel line.

Engine dyno stand...engine would be running for days on end, stainless lines plugged in everywhere, and a zip tie with it's tail hanging out, vibrating against a SS line. Wore right through it.

 

I swear this is true.

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Back on the seals, one common (dirty) mech trick is to install a new seal, but don't drive it in quite all the way. This way, you have a new piece of crank to wear against. RTV, permatex, or loctite on outer perimeter of seal made sure it stayed put, and didn't leak.

I only do this on a steel-backed seal (like wheel bearing seals, or american car crank seals). Ones that have the steel fully encased w/ rubber-don't know if it would work, unless you had something awesome to glue it in place.

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I agree with frag in that I've never seen rubber wear away metal that much. But friction is a vicious force whose powers should not be underestimated...

 

The first thing I thought when the crank being worn was mentioned was that the crank pulley was not tight enough and wobbled the key away...

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The reason the metal wears instead of the rubber, is that the rubber is soft and small particles become imbedded in the surface pores where they are held against the surface like a low grade of sandpaper. At the speeds engines turn, after years of driving that very narrow contact line will score like it had a knife held against it. It doesn't take road dirt to cause this, even with frequent filter changes, there are microscopic pieces of metal circulating with the oil. These particles also imbed in the soft material main bearings are made of, which is why the hardened crankshaft wears out rather than the soft bearing material.

Snotrocket is correct in suggesting the new seal be placed axially so it rubs in a slightly different spot. It's just important to have the seal installed square in the housing bore so it wears evenly.

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