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Transmission cooler\Radiator Hoses - During TB Replacment
Posted 13 August 2006 - 10:14 AM
2/3 through a (first time) timing belt+ job on a 96 OBW 2.5 AT. When I yanked the radiator, I paused briefly as I came to the two small hoses connected to the drivers side edge. Thinking nothing, just disconnected, set them aside and proceeded.
After a bit of hassle getting the crank pulley off, I'm finally looking to find TDC for TB removal (have pulled the spark plugs). In turning the crankshaft, I noticed AT fluid issuing forth from the bottom hose that I disconnected from the radiator (I'm guessing a transmission cooler).
A bit puzzled, since I spent quite a bit of time getting prepped for the job (manual, couple weeks of post combing, AllData subscription etc... I never heard this mentioned.
Question is, can I somehow stop the fluid from draining, while cranking the engine around, and, if not, (heres the embarrasing part) where is the fill point for the AT (can I just get a long funnel and, once done, check the level and add it to the dip stick check hole)?
Would also love a pointer as to the location of the view space that I've heard about on the fly wheel (have heard rumors that its on the passenger side), that I can stick a screwdriver into to lock the drive train down when putting the crank pulley back on.
I've crawled around quite a bit over and under and cant, for the life of me, find it. Is it accessed from above via the engine compartment; undernearth. Easy to find\access?
Posted 13 August 2006 - 12:24 PM
Or you could put like a double hose barb, I think 3/8" might be about right, to join the hoses together until you're finished (that way the fluid will just return to the AT). I definitely would not just 'block off' the hose that's leaking, although it might be ok to do so.
Also, when checking the ATF level, I think it is supposed to be done in park with the engine running after shifting through all gears R, N, D, etc for a few seconds each. I can never get a reading when AT is hot, so I check it a couple minutes after startup. If you try to read it with engine off I can't remember but I think it looks way overfull.
On the 2 sub's I have, the AT dipstick/fill point is in the same location: drivers side near the firewall, with a yellow handled dipstick. I use a clean longish funnel with a small opening on the end. On one of my sub's the dipstick is really picky about which way it goes back in; it won't fully seat one way so I have rotate it 180 deg and slip it in the other way.
Posted 13 August 2006 - 01:30 PM
Yeah, finally figured out that I had a short length of hose that just about fit into the transmission output (into the radiator). Leaks a bit but finally found TDC,so have moved past that...
Heres are *really* stupid question...
I've been replacing the cam seals, just putting them in the way they came out (there appears to be a "flat" side, and then the side that appears slightly cup shaped (formed by the two pieces of wire). When I got the last (Right hand exhaust), one, it was put in the other way, with the flat side out.
For some reason I've been thinking that the flat side goes in, but now, having spend too much time thinking about it, I'm not sure (which, if I have the other 3 in wrong, will screw me cause I'm suppose to be at work tomorrow!
Also, any thoughts as to where the flywheel window (for jamming the drive train when reinstalling the crank pulley) is?
Posted 13 August 2006 - 03:03 PM
I haven't gotten to the point of putting the crank pulley back on and tightening it yet so I haven't looked for how to stop crank from turning but will probably just use chain wrench like I used to loosen the bolt.
Anywho, I'm working on an '00OBW, and the cam seals look like the one posted in the picture below. Do yours look different than this? Both of mine were in the same way, with the solid/non-cupped site to atmosphere and the springed side to the engine internals. I drove the LH one in too far so I have a spare and am going to rip it out and reinstall.
Posted 13 August 2006 - 07:37 PM
Well, except for the cam seals, I'd be about done...
Glad I at least stopped to ask the question (stupid as it was) on the cams, cause I was 3/4 on the way to having a really nice mess. My local parts guy had 2 of the 3 I needed, so I'm hoping to be able to finish up tomorrow.
In terms of the crank, I also have a chain wrench (well actually chain vise grip) so hope to be able to get enough torque and loctite on the puppy to keep it tight.
Many thanks for the pics... yes mine are identical (and now full of holes!).
I did have the left (driver) side cams do the hula on me, so am hoping that I got the actual TDC before pulling the belt (feel pretty sure)... played with the cams a little when they went the *other* way, but found a picture of what the cams are suppose to look like, so with the valve covers off, I think I may be OK (will find out tomorrow).
I read somebody post that they actually took a shot at firing up the car once the belt as on (and not the whole radiator etc...)... which I am tempted to do (just to see if its close). I suspect that if I dont actually let it run (just to see if it'll fire and start) that it shouldnt get too hot...
Posted 14 August 2006 - 06:59 AM
Sounds like you have the DOHC. Did you have to lock the cams together or anything to keep the intake and exhaust valves from getting friendly?
I am tempted to fire up the engine too just to see what happens before putting everything back together. I would not start it without at least the crank pulley in place, even if not with the bolt fully torqued in (then remove it and put the timing cover back on). Not sure if it has to be on just for a quick start but I think that pulley is also dampener to reduce vibrations/stress on bearings 'er somethin? I don't know how long I'd run without radiator since the combustion is going to heat up fast, don't want to melt that aluminum!
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