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Is rust proofing a good thing?


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20 replies to this topic

#1 ericem

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Posted 30 August 2006 - 01:48 PM

Well my subaru was only rust proofed for a short time, and then after that started rusting and now we fixed the rust. we took our car to krown to get it rust proofed, and they basically drill holes and spray oil everywhere behind the metal. Is this a good method, are there better rust proofing methods? Is this one good for the car?

#2 nipper

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Posted 30 August 2006 - 03:35 PM

Depends upon where you live. That is the proper method, the question is how are they coating things and applying it.

If they arent properly treating the drilled holes, taht will be a soyrce ofr rust.
They also be trapping moisture in the car and making it ripe for rust. If you dont live in a rust belt, i wouldnt recomend it. Since you do live in a rust belt, it may be a good insurance poliy past the factory rust through warrenty. Just be carefulas this may void the factory warrenty

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#3 porcupine73

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Posted 30 August 2006 - 06:27 PM

Dude if you live in Canada, word on the street (at least here in Buffalo!) is that Krown has a nice rustproofing program. I know several people who go over the border to get the Krown rustproof every year.

Personally I sprayed the frames and stuff with some kit and black tar like stuff I got from JC Whitney. Then I did the doors with Amsoil heavy duty metal protector. This year I'm trying out kanolabs Weatherpruf.

#4 ericem

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Posted 30 August 2006 - 10:25 PM

Depends upon where you live. That is the proper method, the question is how are they coating things and applying it.

If they arent properly treating the drilled holes, taht will be a soyrce ofr rust.
They also be trapping moisture in the car and making it ripe for rust. If you dont live in a rust belt, i wouldnt recomend it. Since you do live in a rust belt, it may be a good insurance poliy past the factory rust through warrenty. Just be carefulas this may void the factory warrenty

nipper


Warrenty? U read my profile, its a 1993 legacy wagon, lol! Warrenty would have been nice though. Well krown is the best rust proofing service in canada. But it doesnt hurt the car, right? Like make it slower, screw up thing.

#5 nipper

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Posted 30 August 2006 - 10:34 PM

Warrenty? U read my profile, its a 1993 legacy wagon, lol! Warrenty would have been nice though. Well krown is the best rust proofing service in canada. But it doesnt hurt the car, right? Like make it slower, screw up thing.


didnt notice the year :)

well it does, but not by much (you wont notice). Since you already done it isnt it a little late to ask...like

OMFG DONT DO IT YOUR CAR WILL EXPLODE :-p

nipper

#6 jon38iowa

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Posted 30 August 2006 - 11:28 PM

Well my subaru was only rust proofed for a short time, and then after that started rusting and now we fixed the rust. we took our car to krown to get it rust proofed, and they basically drill holes and spray oil everywhere behind the metal. Is this a good method, are there better rust proofing methods? Is this one good for the car?

I did my last new car (Ziebart); I think it was helpful to a point-I also live in the rust belt, moreover, When I traded it in I noticed a few small spots ( Bubble) forming. I think the metals from the factory play a keyrole in rust, regardless of treatment, and certainly the local one lives in is a major factor. Again I do think it is worthwhile, just not to the level advertisers would have you believe.
John

#7 ericem

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 10:56 AM

didnt notice the year :)

well it does, but not by much (you wont notice). Since you already done it isnt it a little late to ask...like

OMFG DONT DO IT YOUR CAR WILL EXPLODE :-p

nipper


LOL i thought it might explode to tell you the truth. oil, ignition, BOOM!

Thanks for the replies, well it seems like im going to rust proof her every year till i die, hehe.

#8 porcupine73

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 11:10 AM

LOL i thought it might explode to tell you the truth. oil, ignition, BOOM!

Well at least it would go out in a blaze of glory! :headbang:

#9 Commuter

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 12:09 PM

I've been using Rust Check for 20 years. Same application method as Krown. Same S. Ont location as the original poster. Rust Check was around first. Krown started from some disgruntled Rust Check dealers.

It does not trap moisture; it displaces it. It does not form a 'solid' coating, it remains oily and tacky. It does work as it continues to creep and is self healing to a point. I've never had a problem with the drilled holes. Yes, the drilling will void new car warranties, but Rust Check and Krown provide their own life time warranties.

The only negative I can comment on is that it does slowly (over several years) cause rubber weatherstripping / seals to expand and soften. Most notably on my 97 OB, the strip along the leading edge of the hood, since the oil flows right to it and soaks it. My orginal strip is still there, but it could use replacing.

Commuter

#10 cookie

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 01:34 PM

Sounds much like the old British Waxoyle I it think it was called. The british swore by it.

#11 ericem

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 02:14 PM

I've been using Rust Check for 20 years. Same application method as Krown. Same S. Ont location as the original poster. Rust Check was around first. Krown started from some disgruntled Rust Check dealers.

It does not trap moisture; it displaces it. It does not form a 'solid' coating, it remains oily and tacky. It does work as it continues to creep and is self healing to a point. I've never had a problem with the drilled holes. Yes, the drilling will void new car warranties, but Rust Check and Krown provide their own life time warranties.

The only negative I can comment on is that it does slowly (over several years) cause rubber weatherstripping / seals to expand and soften. Most notably on my 97 OB, the strip along the leading edge of the hood, since the oil flows right to it and soaks it. My orginal strip is still there, but it could use replacing.

Commuter


WAIT! when you say warrenty u mean for just the body not the mechanical correct? Because my dad did his brand new nissan titan as well.

#12 Commuter

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Posted 04 September 2006 - 07:40 AM

Sounds much like the old British Waxoyle I it think it was called. The british swore by it.

When I bought my 85 Civic, I had the Waxoil (or whatever it was called) treatment done. It was an actual "coating". After a couple of years, I could see it flaking off as it dried out. Several years later, I had an interior rear panel off to do some work and I could see they had only gotten coverage about half way up inside. The rest just had a 'sputter' of coating on it. I started using Rust Check on that car at 2 yo and ran it until 14.5 yo. It was still solid with no rust to speak of, other than a bit of exterior rust at the rear fenders due to scrapes.

I have no idea if the British Waxoyle you are talking about is the same thing or not. IMO, anything that results in an actual "coating" is going to have the same issues. By coating, I mean something that turns solid enough that it can crack, peel, and moisture can get in underneath it.

For those that are interested, you might want to check out CounterAct. It is electronic rust protection. It is not the cathodic approach which is known to not work on cars, so please read before dismissing it. I know that this technology has passed the gov't investigation in Canada. Happy reading.

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#13 Commuter

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Posted 04 September 2006 - 07:41 AM

WAIT! when you say warrenty u mean for just the body not the mechanical correct? Because my dad did his brand new nissan titan as well.

Correct. It is the manufacturer's "corrosion" warranty that is voided.

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#14 Storydude1

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Posted 04 September 2006 - 08:33 AM

Just do what I do.

Take your used motor oil, put it in a garden sprayer, jack up car, spray liberally.

Sure, you leave puddles for a week, but it keeps the rust at check.

Grandad did this on EVERY car he owned....not one of them rusted out.

#15 Gene J

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Posted 04 September 2006 - 06:45 PM

Why bother? My GT Legacy is 9 years old and no rust anywhere. The old days of cars rusting through in a few years is over.

These coatings will NOT help bubbles on the outside of the paint. That is a whole separate issue.

#16 ericem

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Posted 04 September 2006 - 08:10 PM

Why bother? My GT Legacy is 9 years old and no rust anywhere. The old days of cars rusting through in a few years is over.

These coatings will NOT help bubbles on the outside of the paint. That is a whole separate issue.


I totally disagree, it can still rust any vehicle, it just depends if the paint gets chipped, or if salt is sitting, or if there is cancer in the metal. My dad has a 2004 nissan titan and it already has rust. 2 years and its rusting.

#17 hankosolder2

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Posted 04 September 2006 - 10:05 PM

Just do what I do.

Take your used motor oil, put it in a garden sprayer, jack up car, spray liberally.

Sure, you leave puddles for a week, but it keeps the rust at check.

Grandad did this on EVERY car he owned....not one of them rusted out.


I'm not a huge green freak or anything, but this rustproofing technique is good for the car, but not so good for the environment, humans, etc. It contains carcinogens, heavy metals, all kinds of mean and nasty stuff etc. Why not use new motor oil? It's the perfect application for that low-bid discount stuff you'd worry about putting in your crankcase. At $1 a quart or less, it's worth doing things the better way.

Cheers,
Nathan

#18 Commuter

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Posted 06 September 2006 - 04:40 PM

Just do what I do.

Take your used motor oil, put it in a garden sprayer, jack up car, spray liberally.

Sure, you leave puddles for a week, but it keeps the rust at check.

Grandad did this on EVERY car he owned....not one of them rusted out.

My dad did this too. My first car was my dad's 69 Pontiac. I drove it to within 3 months of 20 years old. The oil was sprayed on by some people with pressure equipment. IIRC, they would shoot inside the doors and other spots where they could get in.

It works, but has it's drawbacks.

Messy, big time.

Smokes like crazy until you burn it off the exhaust. Smells during this time too.

Drips for a while. One gallon of oil can contaminate 10,000 gallons of ground water! :eek: That's a helluva ratio. (As an aside... the Rust Check does drip some too. It does not eat into asphalt or cement... but I've often wondered what it does to the environment... I think both Rust Check and Krown have some 'dripless' sprays now... not sure.)

It won't creep into the seams and displace moisture the same way the specially formulated oils do.

Cars are much much better from the factory today in terms of rust proofing. Still... I think it is worthwhile. It use to be said (not that long ago) that corrosion in the seams (where all the spot and seam welds are) reduce the torsional body strength by 30% within just a few years. Corrosion here can be going on for many years before one actually sees it.

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#19 Gene J

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Posted 06 September 2006 - 07:56 PM

I totally disagree, it can still rust any vehicle, it just depends if the paint gets chipped, or if salt is sitting, or if there is cancer in the metal. My dad has a 2004 nissan titan and it already has rust. 2 years and its rusting.

Well the point is those are chips and damage from the outside. A coating on the inside will not protect your vehicle from that kind of damage.
.
If you wash your car and fix paint chips when they happen you will not have an issue on a modern car.

#20 Storydude1

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Posted 07 September 2006 - 08:15 AM

I'm not a huge green freak or anything, but this rustproofing technique is good for the car, but not so good for the environment, humans, etc. It contains carcinogens, heavy metals, all kinds of mean and nasty stuff etc. Why not use new motor oil? It's the perfect application for that low-bid discount stuff you'd worry about putting in your crankcase. At $1 a quart or less, it's worth doing things the better way.

Cheers,
Nathan

On the enviromental note....ONE catylitic converter releases more Greenhouse gasses during it's production than that vehicle it's installed on will produce in a LIFETIME.

And that, is a FACT.

Added to the fact that one City Bus blowing it's transmission releases about 21 GALLONS of ATF onto the ground, makes my 1 quart of oil sprayed on my car a moot point.

Wonder what you people would think about my Waste oil furnace.......:clap:

#21 keltik

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Posted 07 September 2006 - 03:00 PM

I've noticed the underside of my car has some rusproofing stuff painted on (can see the brush marks). Its a fairly thick coating (2-5mm) and has a rubbery texture. I dont know when it was applied, but 10 years and 280,000kms after leaving the factory - the underside of my car is completely rust free. The only corrosion i have is tiny spots on the bodywork from stone chips.




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