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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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clutch cable installed but I have a couple of Q's


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25 replies to this topic

#1 JWX

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Posted 06 November 2003 - 06:58 PM

Ok, who has the voodoo doll on my cars? My rolla is down with timing belt issues and my hatch just snapped is clutch cable, I think. Here's what happend I'm coming up to a red light and go to down shift and I here snap and the pedal goes to the floor, so I drift in to a parking lot and shut the engine off before I stop and it starts agian:banghead: I hope I didn't do anything there. I can move the cable on the pedal end, but not on the engine end. So is that the clutch cable? and were do I get one at? is the one from the parts bin.com ok, or should I go to the dealer ship?(edit check bottom post)

#2 calebz

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Posted 06 November 2003 - 07:10 PM

Dealer or autozone.. or just aboput anywhere.. depending on where you are, they might have to order it.. and yes, it does sound like your clutch cable snapped

#3 JWX

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Posted 06 November 2003 - 07:20 PM

I'm pertty sure it was the clutch cable but wanted to make sure. Would getting one from say AutoZone be worse than getting one from Subaru?

#4 JWX

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Posted 06 November 2003 - 10:41 PM

how do I route the cable? I think it was routed wrong when I got the car, so does anybody have a pic of how to route it? I doubt it but its worth a shot. and is the SOA cable any better then any other one?

#5 MaroonDuneDoom

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Posted 06 November 2003 - 11:52 PM

my cable snapped last month and i had to replace it of course. i went to checker because they would beat anyone else's price in town. long story short, the dealership had it the cheapest but they had to order it. i went to checker w/the dealer price, they beat it, and the damn cable was too short. i HIGHLY recommend the oem cable. i got a cable from this old guy who gave me a bunch of soobie parts. it's best to get a new one, but if it's not a big deal to you, find one in the boneyard that looks fairly sturdy. they last a good 100k miles and i don't feel that a used one would make a big difference. best wishes. and above all have fun. HA HAHA HA:banana:

#6 electryc_monk

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Posted 06 November 2003 - 11:53 PM

well to be blunt.. its only a simple "almost" S shape. IT is either right next to or just below the speedo cable in the firewall.
and it rides up the backbone of the tranny to the fork. The opther cable on the fork will be the HillHolder that arc's around thru the intake and down under the MAstercylinder... That is IF you have the HH installed or in use.

Given that this is the heabvily mod'ed car right?

its actually a rather easy install.... just be flexible to get up under the dash to do the swaping of the cable to the pedal.

And for mental relaxation... as its snapped... you'll do easier if you can pull the cable husk and gromment out from the engine bay and leave whats left of the actual cable thru the hole and attached to the pedal....

Then climb under the dash and use your hand and pull the broken metal cable back thru the hole towards ya and leave it attached to the pedal

then feed the new cable assembly thru the hole

that way hyou have the cable pieces together and pull of the "pin" and thn slide the new in place while you up under the dash and have the "pin" and parts in yer hand.

and you then can climb back out and go back under the hood for connecting to the fork and then set the grommet and your done.

hope that mentally works for ya... as that's how i did it several years ago. sounds long but really it isn't/./

#7 calebz

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Posted 06 November 2003 - 11:58 PM

You don't say which car it is.. that may make a difference.. BTW I have an autozone cable in my car.. seems to work fine

#8 MaroonDuneDoom

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Posted 06 November 2003 - 11:59 PM

it's kind of a pain in the rump roast working w/that pedal and stuff. but once you get down there and look at it, it will all come together. much more basic than i had envisioned. it worked right away w/very little tweaking. oh, and make sure to have about an inch of play so your throwout bearing isn't always spinning. this will wear it out fast. overall, i would give yourself at least an hour to an hour and a half for your first time.

#9 JWX

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Posted 07 November 2003 - 12:19 AM

I do say what car it is. its my hatch, the only hatch I have. and the car is stock right now I wish it was mod'ed that would be cool:headbang: . I'm going to have all day if I can find a place that has it in stock. I plan on buying one local and ordering one from 1stsubaruparts.com and putting that in my car as a spare. I also have a chiltons, haynes, how to keep your subaru alive, and a bentleys book so I should be fine on the replacement, its the adjusting part that scares me:cornfuzz:

#10 electryc_monk

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Posted 07 November 2003 - 12:26 AM

"DOH!" :rolleyes:

#11 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 07 November 2003 - 12:45 AM

Ok - couple of BIG things:

1. Route the cable UNDER the steering column - the splines on the steering shaft will eat a hole in the plastic of the cable, allowing water and other contiminates in, and the dry lubrican't inside the cable out - VERY BAD. It goes under the steering shaft, and under the heater core lines. OVER THE STEERING SHAFT routing is the most common reason for cable failure in my experience. This happens because unless you know it's wrong, the cable will work fine, and it seems the natural way to install it when your in there working...... you just have to know better. BTW - if you don't route it this way, the cable will be a lost cause within a few hundred miles..... will take more than that to snap, but the damage to the cable housing will already have been done.

2. When installing the cable it's a real beotch to get that little pin in and out unless you REMOVE the clutch pedal. Much easier if you just pop off the retaining clip on the pedal pivot shaft, and pull the whole pedal out about an inch - no need to remove it from the shaft, but I always do, and put a little brake caliper grease on the plastic sleeve bushings for the pedal. Also a good time to check the operation of the clutch engagement switch for proper adjustement. It's activated by a little rubber pad on the pedal.

3. Make sure the little rubber stopper pad on the pedal end of the cable is properly fitted to the metal tab on pedal box - you will see what I mean. There are two little rubber arrow shaped peices that must be pulled through two holes in the metal tab - they lock into place, and it's a rather tight fit - you will need needle nose pliers for it, as they are too tight to insert by hand. If that stopper isn't properly seated, the cable can rub on the metal tab, and once again...... bad times.

GD

#12 JWX

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Posted 07 November 2003 - 01:32 AM

Electryc monk, no problem I get people confused a lot and I'm not sure why?
and thanks for all of the help, I plan to have it back one the road by sat to drive to work (I hope) but what about it starting back up when I shut the key off do ya think that hurt anything?

#13 calebz

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Posted 07 November 2003 - 01:43 AM

"DOH!" :rolleyes:



Yup.. oops.. sorry.. missed it:o

#14 electryc_monk

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Posted 07 November 2003 - 02:04 AM

when it fired back up was it in gear and thus lurch forward?

if you can shift in and out of gear then..... i doubt it.... actually i doubt it weither way to be honest.

A few years back (Xmas of 1998) i had the cable break on me.

granted i was super lucky and only like 4 blocks from the Aunt and Uncle's house. The only Bad thing i did was actually push the shifter arm up forward till i could fee the car start to roll forward (at idle). So glad So-Cal strets in that are were supper flat ground.

yeah and it then "popped" into 1st (almost a chirpping lurch forward. then i did the "speedshifting into 2nd" and third.
i knew those RPM ranges like clockwork so it was safe... just had to time the street lights "just so"....

and i barely did. but the "into their parking lot" it was ummm a bit mean. I slipped into the lot in a lugging 2nd and then as soon as i was "this close" to their house i raised the RPMs up just enough to pop outta gear and coast in. Killed the ignition and then in neutral i slid into a spot. Then i goto swap a clutch cable then next day after i long long waste of time riding the OC RapidTransit system. LOL gawd it was a 4.5 hour round trip and used 4 different busses to get to the subie dealership and buy the clutch cable they actually had in stock.

and it took m about an hour to install as I recall. sooo yeah sorry for the tangent.

#15 JWX

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Posted 07 November 2003 - 02:14 AM

what happend with me is before I came to a stop I turned the key to shut off the engine, and was still rolling so it started back up but it was in third, but right before it stop rollin I had it outta gear. everything still feels like its there when I shifted it when I got home. a good thing about this is it was like a block up from were I had my accident in it at, and that only like half a mile down the road from my house so it was cool. I had a friend tow me home only the second time that has had to happen( the tow my Subaru home thing)

#16 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 07 November 2003 - 02:19 AM

pretty sure nothing would be hurt by roll starting the engine - should be fine.

Don't worry about adjustment - just get it tight, and it will work fine. You just don't want any slop in the cable. I just make it tight enough that I can't move the shifter fork by hand. And make sure to tighten the stop nut down REALLY tight. If that works loose, your in a heap-o-trouble.

GD

#17 JWX

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Posted 07 November 2003 - 05:51 PM

ok, mines routed under the steering shaft, but over the heater hoses. also the sheath looks rubbed at a mounting bracket on the tranny. and no I wasn't installing the new one as it won't be in untill tonight, just looking at it. and in the "how to keep your subaru alive" manual it says to put some grease on it but where, I assume on the exposed ends, right?

#18 JWX

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Posted 08 November 2003 - 12:13 AM

ok I got it after like 4 hours(yes really from 7 to 11) but it works now, but I have a couple of things I wanted to ask ya'll. I have...no wait I have had a whine when the clutch was released that went away when you pushed on the clutch pedal. is this my throw out bearing? and what can I do too fix it? as it is worse now. Where it broke at it was bent( the cover) from a bracket that was holding it do I re-use thing or is it ok to just let it hang. I test drove it and every thing worked fine, but thought I would ask just to make sure. and I have about two inchs or so from the floor before the clutch engages is that normal, it didn't do that before. ok thats it I'm going to take a shower and go to bed, I have a double shift tomorrow. I'll try to check the board before I go to work.

#19 JWX

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Posted 08 November 2003 - 09:10 PM

bump

#20 beauregaardhooligan

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Posted 09 November 2003 - 09:11 AM

Sounds like the ThrowOutBearing, dude. Gotta yank the trany. Might as well do the clutch while your in there.
I think there should be a spring on the clutch fork. If it's not there the TOB wears prematurely.

#21 MaroonDuneDoom

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Posted 09 November 2003 - 12:17 PM

i don't know about "yank the whole tranny" it just sounds like more work than NEEDS to be done. i don't know anything about this topic i'm just tryin to get some clarification from beauregaardhooligan.

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#22 beauregaardhooligan

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Posted 09 November 2003 - 12:25 PM

I have heard that you can loosen and move the trany back enough to get the bearing, or clutch for that matter, in and out. Never done it myself.
Some prefer taking the motor out. 6 of 1, half dozen of the other, they gotta come apart.

#23 JWX

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Posted 09 November 2003 - 05:53 PM

I thought on ones with the hill-holder thing that, that was the spring? and theres a spring on the hill holder that runs to the frame rail, I think. and how long do ya think it will last?

#24 JWX

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Posted 11 November 2003 - 12:14 AM

ok, so what will happen when my throw out bearing goes out?
(ya, its a bump)

#25 TomRhere

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Posted 11 November 2003 - 12:37 AM

1. Makes a hellish racket ,

2. Gets you stared at by other people on the street/road,

3. Could damage the pressure plate,

4. Will damage pressure plate if left in for long after it freezes up,

5. Can damage the shaft it rides on , on the tranny,

6. Will damage the shaft of the tranny if left in for long after it freezes up,

7. Will cause you to spend more money than you wanted to if you don't change it out before it goes bad.




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