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Wheel bearing???


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21 replies to this topic

#1 Buick350X

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 04:49 PM

Well here is the run down.
There is a lounder then normal tire whir coming from the rear end.

brakes check out, rear dif checks out, front dif checks out, all the cv boots are in good shape. I just wonder is there a possiability that a wheel bearing has gone south? Does this even happen on Subs? Not very common on most any car but.... Few times it has happened, the wheel felt lose or the bad bearing made it bind n skip. It was always very clear.

I haven't had time to get the tires rotated to rule that out yet.
Tires are pretty new.

If so can the wheel bearing in the rear be changed easy? Just remove that lock nut and it like say doing the front of a GM car?

#2 cookie

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 04:55 PM

Like most cars wheel bearing failure is common. I think on the rear of the Imprezza series a bit more as they used ball bearings. The hot ticket is to use the Legacy rear for replacement there.
This is a bit more complicated than a Chevy front. You might do a search here as this has been mentioned many times.
You either need a puller or bearing buddy as they have been called or to pull off the hub and have it pressed out and in by a machine shop.

#3 skizix

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 05:28 PM

I had two bearings go (one at a time) over the long course of owning my 90 legacy. It started as a subtle tire-sounding noise, and got gradually louder until it was obvious that something was not right. Even at that point, the car drove normally, and there was no looseness or binding apparent by examining the wheel by hand with the car jacked up. Never noticed a decrease in mileage or anything else.

The only other sypmtom detectable was this: after a long stint on the highway, that wheel would heat up. Like, I'd reach through a hole in the plastic hubcap, and the steel rim would be very hot to touch. Wheels normally heat up a bit, I think, from normal, slight rubbing of brake pads, but the bad-bearing wheel would be much hotter than the others.

I had a shop do it, after being advised that I'd need special tools (bearing puller, I guess). My regular mechanic was not equipped for the job, and i had to seek out a specialist. I'm thinking it can't be that hard with the right tool (which you can probably rent), but I'd advise getting some advice specific to your car before launching into that task yourself.

#4 tcspeer

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 05:53 PM

If it is a wheel bearing out you can get the spindle and hub from wrecking yard for around fifty dollars and not have to go hunt some one with a press. Then take the money you save and buy the press that is sold at Harbor Freight and practice taking your old one apart and putting it back together then the next time you need one done you will be able to fix it for around 50.00 dollars bearing and seals.

Well here is the run down.
There is a lounder then normal tire whir coming from the rear end.

brakes check out, rear dif checks out, front dif checks out, all the cv boots are in good shape. I just wonder is there a possiability that a wheel bearing has gone south? Does this even happen on Subs? Not very common on most any car but.... Few times it has happened, the wheel felt lose or the bad bearing made it bind n skip. It was always very clear.

I haven't had time to get the tires rotated to rule that out yet.
Tires are pretty new.

If so can the wheel bearing in the rear be changed easy? Just remove that lock nut and it like say doing the front of a GM car?



#5 Manarius

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 06:27 PM

Let a mechanic do it. It's a one-hour job. If it's a slight roar that gets louder as you go faster, then it's probably a wheel bearing. However, just to be sure, make sure that all the caliper dust covers are on tight and all the calipers are tight.


#6 tcspeer

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 06:33 PM

Why! it's 350.00 dollars for a Mechanic to do this and then you must wait until they can get to it, this is one of the most over rated jobs their is.

Let a mechanic do it. It's a one-hour job. If it's a slight roar that gets louder as you go faster, then it's probably a wheel bearing. However, just to be sure, make sure that all the caliper dust covers are on tight and all the calipers are tight.



#7 Buick350X

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 08:10 PM

Any chance anyone can scan n post me the parts diagram for the rear section Im gonna work on? Just the like parts order.

Something like this
http://ViragoTech.co...50/750_7_26.jpg

I used the book at the lirbary before but wont have time for that this weekend.

#8 johnceggleston

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 08:24 PM

in one of my most ignorant moments, i removed the nut on the end of the axel and tried to remove the axel out of my donor car. i di this while it sat on the ground wit hfull weight, well no engine or transmisson. i realized my error and jacked it up to remove and needed a puller to remove the axel. i had already tried removing the axel with it in the air but no luck. the second time i forgot to jack it up before removing t5he nut.

question: is this wheel, hub. bearing, etc. all ruined?? what damage did i cause.? the wheel on the other side spins very freely, but this one slows pretty quickly. if i replace the bearing is it ok for later swap or trade? luckily i screwed up on the donor car.

thanks,
john

If it is a wheel bearing out you can get the spindle and hub from wrecking yard for around fifty dollars and not have to go hunt some one with a press. Then take the money you save and buy the press that is sold at Harbor Freight and practice taking your old one apart and putting it back together then the next time you need one done you will be able to fix it for around 50.00 dollars bearing and seals.



#9 tcspeer

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 09:12 PM

If the engine and transmission was out I dont think you had enough weight on the bearing to hurt anything.

in one of my most ignorant moments, i removed the nut on the end of the axel and tried to remove the axel out of my donor car. i di this while it sat on the ground wit hfull weight, well no engine or transmisson. i realized my error and jacked it up to remove and needed a puller to remove the axel. i had already tried removing the axel with it in the air but no luck. the second time i forgot to jack it up before removing t5he nut.

question: is this wheel, hub. bearing, etc. all ruined?? what damage did i cause.? the wheel on the other side spins very freely, but this one slows pretty quickly. if i replace the bearing is it ok for later swap or trade? luckily i screwed up on the donor car.

thanks,
john



#10 Buick350X

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Posted 01 September 2006 - 12:04 AM

Looking up parts at autozone.com they only list an inner bearing for the rear wheel.


Which is $60 with no warranty or $80 with a 3 month warranty.

Though they list an inner, outter and intermediate wheel seal.

3 seals protecting the bearing and it still failed?

#11 richierich

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Posted 01 September 2006 - 12:48 AM

Let a mechanic do it. It's a one-hour job. If it's a slight roar that gets louder as you go faster, then it's probably a wheel bearing. However, just to be sure, make sure that all the caliper dust covers are on tight and all the calipers are tight.


Well, first of all it is not a 1 hour job. Book time pays 2.5 hours, which sometimes can be a good deal. Some times it take less, some times it takes 2.5 hours sometimes it even takes more. We (Subaru Repair Shop) spent 4 hours on a bearing last week. Would have just swapped out a hub but we had used them all up. On a mechanics best day it, it would take more time than an hour to fix it. You being a regular guy will take at least 3 hours your first time doing it.

The person who suggested swapping it out and then trying to replace the bearings in your free time, was a realist, very good idea. Just to let you know we charge $245 to install new OEM bearings, parts and labor. BTW OEM is Koyo. I can ship them to you for about $50+ shipping.

#12 Buick350X

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Posted 05 September 2006 - 12:50 AM

Anyone know the size of the nut on the rear hub? Is it standard or metric and how big? 1 1/16 is as big as I got.

#13 jsavrtka

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Posted 05 September 2006 - 11:07 AM

Anyone know the size of the nut on the rear hub? Is it standard or metric and how big? 1 1/16 is as big as I got.


I don't know if all subies are the same, but my Legacy is 32 mm. A 1 1/4" socket should also work as it equals 31.75 mm.

#14 rjames

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Posted 05 September 2006 - 11:41 AM

I just had new tires intsalled at Crappie-Tire two weeks ago. I don't trust them with much, not even the tires...they're tire jocky had them at all at 42 psi!

Point here is they wanted to change my wheel bearing.

I have not noticed any sounds coming out of the back however, they told me my rear-right wheel bearing will need replacement in the future. They would do it for $265 (Cdn) - parts, labour and taxes included. Not bad but they'll never touch it. I asked the service manager a few questions like if the wheel is loose, and he said he didn't know - their typical response.

How would they know it needs replacement without any symptoms? Are there physical symptoms that would give them the tip-off or were they just yanking my chain again?

#15 jon38iowa

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Posted 05 September 2006 - 11:58 AM

Let a mechanic do it. It's a one-hour job. If it's a slight roar that gets louder as you go faster, then it's probably a wheel bearing. However, just to be sure, make sure that all the caliper dust covers are on tight and all the calipers are tight.

I usually have mine (need it or not) done when the rotors are replaced, moreoever, it doens't cost that much since it is already pretty much apart.
John

#16 Manarius

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Posted 05 September 2006 - 12:41 PM

Well, first of all it is not a 1 hour job. Book time pays 2.5 hours, which sometimes can be a good deal. Some times it take less, some times it takes 2.5 hours sometimes it even takes more. We (Subaru Repair Shop) spent 4 hours on a bearing last week. Would have just swapped out a hub but we had used them all up. On a mechanics best day it, it would take more time than an hour to fix it. You being a regular guy will take at least 3 hours your first time doing it.

The person who suggested swapping it out and then trying to replace the bearings in your free time, was a realist, very good idea. Just to let you know we charge $245 to install new OEM bearings, parts and labor. BTW OEM is Koyo. I can ship them to you for about $50+ shipping.

Then your Subaru shop sucks major rump roast. My mechanic did a REAR wheel bearing (a real PITA compared to the front) in an hour. He charged me $60 in labor for an hour, 'cause that's all it took. And yes, he pulled the entire hub out and pressed the bearing in.

No wonder people don't go to dealers, it's dealers like the aforementioned that persistently screw people time and time again. 2-4 hours for a wheel bearing!? What the hell are you doing in that time period, having a tea party!? I could do it myself in that kind of time.

Jesus, how long does it take you to do an axle, 6 hours? Give me a freakin' break here. What's the name of your company so I can tell everybody I know NOT to go there.


#17 cookie

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Posted 05 September 2006 - 12:59 PM

Now clam down Manarius. As a former shop manager I have to stand up for Richie here. At 18 or so you are in a big hurry as we were at your age.
A careful job should not be rushed and safety is an important factor in the equasion.
Frankly all jobs don't go well especially if you get some rust involved. In a shop a mechanic will get some jobs that go very quickly and then the one you eat.
I bet the first one I have to do will take me four hours and the next one a couple hours. Leaning on the car while you drink your coffee and thinking about it is important.

#18 Manarius

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Posted 05 September 2006 - 01:10 PM

Now clam down Manarius. As a former shop manager I have to stand up for Richie here. At 18 or so you are in a big hurry as we were at your age.
A careful job should not be rushed and safety is an important factor in the equasion.
Frankly all jobs don't go well especially if you get some rust involved. In a shop a mechanic will get some jobs that go very quickly and then the one you eat.
I bet the first one I have to do will take me four hours and the next one a couple hours. Leaning on the car while you drink your coffee and thinking about it is important.

No, this isn't a matter of hurrying. My mechanic stopped a few times to talk to my dad (they went to school together) while he was replacing the bearing on my car. He was taking his sweet time - not rushing it at all. Doing the bearing is not a tough job, you just have to have the right tools. That's the reason I wouldn't attempt it, I don't have the necessary tools to do the job correctly. Trust me, if there's one thing I don't do when I'm working on the car, it's rush. I take my sweet time, it gives me time to analyze how I took stuff apart and how I put it back together. I've spent many hours in the garage just taking stuff in my car apart and putting it back together.

#19 robm

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Posted 05 September 2006 - 01:52 PM

Re: Crappie Tire (that is Canadian Tire to you non-Canadian folks) and wheel bearings.

I took my AWD Corolla in to get a wheel bearing done. I knew it was the bearing, as I had hit a log in a ditch while travelling at a good rate, and had to have the suspension bits on that corner all replaced. (I was lucky that that was all that had to be repaired, and I drove it out of the ditch and 10 miles to the shop!) So when the bearing started to howl, it was no surprise. When it got to the point that it was either get a new bearing or a louder stereo, I took it to CT. They looked at it and told me the brakes were bad! They were right, so I bought brake pads to instal myself, and then told them to take the car for a drive around the block.

"Oh Gee, guess you are right! Normally, we don't get complaints about wheel bearings until the wheel is loose." As if I would let it get that far!

So, if wiggly wheels is their normal means of troubleshooting, jack it up and give it a shake. If it doesn't move, and doesn't howl, forget about it.

So, the point about CT, is: They are in a hurry, and don't always take the time to troubleshoot properly. They are also trying to sell you more services, so always try to confirm any diagnosis they come up with.

#20 Buick350X

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Posted 26 September 2006 - 04:04 PM

Ended up being the wheel bearing. I just couldn't get it apart enough. Siezed bolts everywhere. Cost $501.55 at a local rep trans shop.

#21 frag

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Posted 26 September 2006 - 07:12 PM

I remember reading here that if you put your hand on the strut or spring while you spin the wheel, you will feel vibrations if the bearing is bad even if the wheel does'nt wobble or the bearing does'nt howl.
Just thought I might pass it on to those that did'nt read it or do not remember.

#22 Buick350X

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 03:14 AM

I remember reading here that if you put your hand on the strut or spring while you spin the wheel, you will feel vibrations if the bearing is bad even if the wheel does'nt wobble or the bearing does'nt howl.
Just thought I might pass it on to those that did'nt read it or do not remember.



Yep its not easy to figure out. I couldn't get things very far apart but it never felt like a wheel bearing. On the ground and driving it just made noise and didn't seem that bad. But I jack all 4 up in the air and put it in gear and oh man, It looked sounded and felt BAD BAD BAD. But I still thought it was higher up in the axle. But after that I just sent it to a good shop, it was scary awful in the air. But the bearing was toast, totatly destroyed itself. And even the shop had a hard time with the bolts, I had to cut the LCA bolt off but couldn't get nuting else off far enough to yank the axle. They earned they loot plus he took like $40 some buck off for paying in cash. Better then nuttin

work rate was $71.95 hr but they are a good shop




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