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Paint prep


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7 replies to this topic

#1 jamman

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Posted 07 September 2006 - 09:45 AM

What kind of prep work needs to be done on rusty spots prior to priming a Soob before painting?
:confused:

#2 Turbone

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Posted 07 September 2006 - 08:18 PM

Wire brush the heavy stuff off, then sand the surface. Try and feather the surface where it meets the paint. Alot of primers have rust killer in them now, look for it in Krylon and Rustoleum. If the area is pitted badly, use some bondo to fill and smooth it then sand and prime.

#3 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 07 September 2006 - 08:47 PM

I Agree, but I just wanna Add this: if the Area is very rusted, is better idea to take out the part (if can be Done) and treat the back of the Damaged -Rusty- Part.

Good Luck! :) , Pics Please ;)



#4 bgd73

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Posted 08 September 2006 - 01:35 PM

once rusted its lost. get rid of it as much as possible, then re-metal, then any primers work on clean uninfected stuff and paint. I gave up on rust where I live. I see it.. I count on it as lost cause. It can be slowed, but it is gonna creep back out sooner than later.Even sanding to shiny still has the cause in it- to be a bubble in your patient new paint job. :confused:
I have never one the "repair the rust jobs with sanding" yet...on any car.Unless metal was young and be it clean water and air that killed it.:banghead:

#5 #89

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Posted 08 September 2006 - 05:37 PM

Howdy,

:eek: I have nightmares about rust... I used to curse rust when playing with BMW 2002s from the 70's (in the late 90's). A few folks mentioned to me that rust is just the metal's desire to return to the earth from which it came...:banghead:

If you've never done bodywork glance over ANY Haynes Manual... they have a fairly good basic intro usually in a color section of whichever model & make's manual.

Bring those spots down to BARE, RUST/PIT FREE metal.

Local parts shop should have a little bottle of stinky pink stuff called Naval Jelly. Apply a dose of this stuff to any areas you are not sure you could sand/cut down to perfection (possible pits, etc.)

Follow the instructions on the bottle being careful with skin and non metal surfaces... rinsing the treated areas thoroughly.

Check the parts store or order POR-15 - a darn good rust converting catalyst and inhibitor - there are few to no substitutes. Don't get it on you hands unless you you like the dirty hands for 3 weeks look.

Give the areas a 'light' coating w/ a foam brush (tends to be thick and build up...).

Use bondo/fiberglass resin to level out surface... a nice product on the market right now is 'HALF-TIME' filler - is self leveling and pretty smooth stuff.

88% of a good paint job is prep... a finishing/spot putty is recommended for tiny scratch filling or pin holes. 'ICING' is another nice product... I'd stay away from glazing and spot putty of the red generic/Bondo variety... tends to sink within 1/2 year.

Prime area(s) with a decent 'Sanddable Filler Primer'... try to use an even spray cap like those found on 'DupliColor' cans.

Good Luck & Skill; Show us Before & After pics,
#89
1989 Subaru JUSTY RS 4WD
121,001 miles

#6 cubastreet

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Posted 08 September 2006 - 06:09 PM

If using filler on your car don't apply it to bare steel because it absorbs moisture. Then any tiny scratch or chip in the topcoat lets water in and the whole lot goes rusty. Always prime the steel before applying filler.

#7 bgd73

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Posted 08 September 2006 - 09:08 PM

If using filler on your car don't apply it to bare steel because it absorbs moisture. Then any tiny scratch or chip in the topcoat lets water in and the whole lot goes rusty. Always prime the steel before applying filler.


I had an embarrassing time with that for the very reason you mentioned. One winter self destruction far worse than where I began. I hit one hard pot hole and chunks were falling off for miles... 6 months after banging stuff and grinding . :confused: I love chucking rusty fenders and anything replacable... and painting it the way Subaru never would have. I have one fender going on 10years flawlessly.. in Maine daily driven all year round on its second car. Don't hesitate to get a high priced proven paint.. it will prove itself. :)

#8 Caboobaroo

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Posted 08 September 2006 - 09:32 PM

I guess I can chime in here since I work in a bodyshop. Anyways, rust is bad, we all know that. Thing to do. Grind out the rust firs off. Get some One Step or other rust inhibitor. Apply to the area that has the rust on it. Usually, the inhibitors will have a "rust into primer" sort of deal. I've been using some at work recently and works awesome. Next, roughen up the area with some 36 grit on a grind wheel if the area is a little lower then the surrounding area. Apply some Evercoat or other glaze filler to the area, since it shouldn't be deep enough to need the application of a rough filler (like Bondo). Next, sand the area down to make it smooth, apply some Etch primer (apply to bare metal to prevent rusting as well), then use regular, sandable priner to the area, block out the area if needed and reprime, then use 400 grit wet/dry paper before painting. When painting, if using a two stage setup, apply a sealer to the area, spray the base color (3 coats IIRC), then 3 coats of clear, let sit for a few days or a few minutes if in a bake booth, then call it good.

But like said before, you'll never truely get rid of the rust, you can help prevent spread of it and such but that spot will always be there and if exposed to the elements again, it'll start to rust...




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