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Rear axles are stuck *Update*
Posted 08 November 2003 - 01:35 PM
I have tried:
1. Penetrating oil and a crowbar
2. Penetrating oil, brass punch, and BFH
3. Heat from propane torch, brass punch, and BFH (penetrating oil is flammable!!)
They will not budge!
What next? Any ideas?
Posted 08 November 2003 - 01:36 PM
Hell, just grab the rear end with everything, brakes, axles, diff and hanger. Then when all that is out, use some elbow grease to get the stub's off.
Posted 08 November 2003 - 02:47 PM
Posted 08 November 2003 - 04:45 PM
Posted 08 November 2003 - 08:14 PM
On another note, when you put an axle in, it's is a really good idea to put a lot of anti-sieze on the splines before you put the cups on the stub. This will make it easier if you need to take it off again, also makes it easier to put it on. I did this on the car and both the rear's slip off like butter.
Posted 09 November 2003 - 01:24 AM
i side note: this lsd was olso the topic of this thread:
it behaved like an open dif when i first found it, but seemed fine when i went back.
another side note: ByTheSea: you better get back to me about that vlsd cause now i can pull this trade off without you, but i'd still like to send it your way if you want it. so be in touch, eh?
Posted 09 November 2003 - 12:09 PM
It behaved like an open diff because the car was in gear and in 4wd, the lsd slipped rather than turn the engine over... It was fine once I shifted it out of gear.
Did you see the XT-6 at another yard. (They wanted $200 for all the 5-lug swap parts, too much, I think!) I'l prolly grab the engine, wire harness, and ecu, if it's still there Monday.
The other LSD I speak of is removed from the car with the control arms, axles, etc, still attached. I'm going back to buy the whole mess Monday morning. I'll use the LSD, control arms, and sway bar on my wagon, and sell the disc brake parts. The axles are shot.
Posted 09 November 2003 - 02:55 PM
Good thing you hollered. I have mine on the bench. I can box it and mail it tomorrow. Box the complete VLSD minus lube and get a weight and your zip code and I'll paypal you the difference betwean mine and yours. I assume you still just want the chunk. PM me your mailing address and well get this rolling. Don't email me. My account is crap from spammers and I'm letting it overfill for now to start sending them back bad address notices.
Posted 29 November 2003 - 11:29 AM
Well I finally got the axles off of the diff. I don't want to admit how long I worked on it. Air hammer did not work, not even with propane assistance. No amount of heating, prying, and hammering worked.
Finally, I removed the boot from the Double Offset Joint, removed the snap ring that retains the axle/ball cage assembly, and removed the axle from the DOJ cup. There is a cap in the bottom of the DOJ cup that covers the stub axle and keeps the grease in. I used a center punch to put a hole in the center of the cap and then pried it out. Now I could see the end of the stub axle inside the DOJ cup. Cool. Now, I put a medium sized wheel puller, of the 3 jaw variety, around the outside of the DOJ, pushing against the stub axle. Impact wrench on the puller, propane heat on the outside of the DOJ cup, with good solid hits from a BIG hammer, and slowly but surely victory was mine.
Like AdamNDJ said, next time you work on your axles, put some antisieze or grease on the stubs! I know I will. This mess came from a car as new as '89.
Now to work on getting rest of the the axle off the control arm side. I'm not sure how to disassemble the Bell Joint on that side. It doesn't have a snap ring like the DOJ side. The cage seems to be retained by "magic" on the BJ side. ???
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