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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Welded the rear, WOW!


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36 replies to this topic

#1 Phizinza

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 04:31 AM

My brother and I had lots to do this week, so instead we decided to weld a diff! :lol: We pulled a diff out of our spare wreck the other day and welded it up, well we got half of it weled then becaue we ran out of wire for the mig. Today we got more wire and finished the job. I was worried about getting the drive shafts off my diff in the car as last time I swapped the diff I had to leave the cups on the diff and use the shaft and race that was on the car. But when I un-bolted the diff out of my car the splines just came off the diff! WOOHO! Then I pulled the right driveshaft out with some wacks. Bolted the welded diff in, covered everything in anti-seize.
At the moment I just use the pins that come with the drive shafts and a screw driver that is cut off to wack them out. What would be a good replacement to quicken this up? Do the pins need to hold the splines together tightly? or can the pin be lose?

Any how. I tried it out in my back yard. Works like a charm! It's like heaven on wheels! Not that I'd know anything about heaven.. Climbed up everything I had. Some things needed a little run up, as in 1 meter of driving before the wheels hit the up hill, instead of just tried to drive up the slope form the bottom. I so much want to test this out in some harder stuff now! So much fun.

Heres the specs of the car.
Its a 89 Brumby (Brat)
2" lift (but only 1 3/4 on the diff hanger)
EA81dc (dual carb, high flow heads - ea82 valve style)
2" straight through pipe, expept that stupid cat that is half blown out the back of the exhaust.
I was using 25.5" 215mm wide road tires with the test, but I will be using my Kumho 27" M/T's.
Welded 3.7ratio rear diff, of cause.
Pretty much stock after that...

Pictures to follow, and maybe a phone camera video for you!

EDIT:
Here ya go. Not much but something to look at
http://webmaster.bev...diff_action.avi
http://webmaster.bev...ff_cleaning.jpg
http://webmaster.bev..._weld_ready.jpg
http://webmaster.bev...iff_welding.jpg
http://webmaster.bev...diff_welded.jpg

#2 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 08:07 AM

Buitiful:eek: :cool: :brow:

Posted Image


Do the pins need to hold the splines together tightly? or can the pin be lose?

Welded 3.7ratio rear diff,


a loose wire will work fine

is your car a 3.7 or 3.9 ?

#3 s'ko

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 09:51 AM

nice. So from what I gather you just fuse the center stuff together?

I have been trying to decide LSD or welded rear.

Can anyone give me a picture or something of where you weld?

BW

#4 uncoolperson

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 10:05 AM

Do the pins need to hold the splines together tightly? or can the pin be lose?


laugh at me or whatever

bailing wire/fencing wire/mechanics wire (yeah it's called that for an extra buck)

my welded diff blew up, but haven't had any issues with halfshafts falling off.

#5 s'ko

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 10:07 AM

found a good site w/a tutorial for rear welding

http://www.derbypro.com/tut9.html

#6 ezapar

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 10:28 AM

Any how. I tried it out in my back yard. Works like a charm! It's like heaven on wheels! Not that I'd know anything about heaven.. Climbed up everything I had. Some things needed a little run up, as in 1 meter of driving before the wheels hit the up hill, instead of just tried to drive up the slope form the bottom. I so much want to test this out in some harder stuff now! So much fun.


That's right. Everybody's a doubter until they get to use one, I was. Then it's no going back.

#7 NoahDL88

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 03:00 PM

The power of the EJ22 combined with the low range 1.59 and a welded rear in an EA-82 body let my subie crawl up the same hill that others with the 1.8 and open diffs had to charge up.


More power and more traction FTW

#8 uncoolperson

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 03:29 PM

The power of the EJ22 combined with the low range 1.59 and a welded rear in an EA-82 body let my subie crawl up the same hill that others with the 1.8 and open diffs had to charge up.


More power and more traction FTW


had to remind me didn't you...

#9 heep70

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 07:06 PM

You missed a spot. Get another spool. :clap:

#10 beataru

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 08:13 PM

hey i was just wonderin... i dont know but.. couldnt gearoil residue flameup???

#11 Phizinza

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 09:14 PM

hey i was just wonderin... i dont know but.. couldnt gearoil residue flameup???


hehe... Umm, well, my brother used prep wash (its made for getting surfaces clean before painting) to clean the inside of the diff. He only cleaned the gears though, so when we went to welding it just lit up with a rather nice bang.. Then we had a lot of trouble trying to put the oil/kero/prepwash out. But after we put it out and it burnt for a bit it didn't light up again. Nothing dangerous..
He also used anti spatter on the inside of the diff. Worked wonders. Then he got to all the bubberly bits on the weld with a drill + wire brush. So there isn't much thats going to fall off into the oil now.

Also another thing you should do after welding it is put in some oil and work it into the pinion bearings... After this one was welded it locked up tight because of no oil and it took a little while to free it up.

Buitiful:eek: :cool: :brow:

is your car a 3.7 or 3.9 ?

3.7... It's interesting but most of the "Brumby's" I see in yards are 3.7 here. Also our 82 wrecked wagon is a 3.7, 87 wrecked wagon is a 3.7. A spare single range box with diff in the 82 is a 3.7. Although dad's 85 wagon is a 3.9 and my brothers 83 (with replacement 4sp gearbox and diff from i don't know) is 3.9. Oh, and my mate has a 3.7 in his 88 wagon too... It seems 3.7 is way more popular here in Australia.

nice. So from what I gather you just fuse the center stuff together?

Yes, basicly you just want to turn it into a "solid axle" in other words stop the diff from doing what a diff does do.

I couldn't find any pictures of welded subie diffs online. And there was bearly any info other then "just weld your diff, blah blah blah" So I thought I'd show everyone that doesn't know how it all works. Hope you enjoyed this.


Theres one really sad thing about all this though... REALLY SAD.. No more 4WD fun on the roads :( :( :-\
My car handled beautifully on the road in 4WD... now it's just 3WD or FWD... oh well, I guess I'll be safer because I won't be going as fast.. But I sure will miss 4WD, especially going round the dirt corner that leads onto my road, had some awesome sideways fun around there... Oh well :(


Time to make/get/buy a locker I thinks ! :grin:

#12 heep70

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 09:29 PM

Watch out welding the carrier also. The heat weakens it. Not that a Subaru has the power to break it, but there is that chance. I have welded up spiders using detent balls (hardened ball bearings) to place in the teeth of the side gears and spiders. You won't have to use as much wire. But how cares as long as it works. Function before fashion. :burnout:

#13 Phizinza

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 09:36 PM

at a guess it probably used about 8 to 10 meters of .8mm wire. Doesn't cost much, not like the alloy wire and gas we got.
Oh that reminds me. We used gasless wire.

#14 beataru

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 09:59 PM

hehe FIRE!

#15 Numbchux

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Posted 29 September 2006 - 12:43 AM

that's definately overkill on the welding there! works best to take a peice of something metal (bolt with the head cut off works well) and weld it into where the gears mesh. then spot weld the gears to each other, aswell as to the sides of the carrier in a few places.

my uncle always says that back when he was doin all his wheelin, they would cover the sides of the carrier with tin foil, melt down some lead, and pour it in. on the bigger rigs, they'd break it all apart in a weekend, and have an open diff again for the trip home, but in his little 82 4-cyl yota, it never broke in like 4 years! but now that he's back in it...he's just gonna get air lockers for his land rover :-\

#16 Phizinza

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Posted 29 September 2006 - 12:49 AM

Never such thing as overkill. Besides, 10mins of welding plus a couple of bucks of wire and now I know theres no way it could break...

If it does, it won't ever work as an open diff again, so I guess it would just have to shatter. But who cares, I've got two more open 3.7's sitting in the 82 wreck.

#17 Numbchux

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Posted 29 September 2006 - 02:07 AM

Never such thing as overkill. Besides, 10mins of welding plus a couple of bucks of wire and now I know theres no way it could break...

If it does, it won't ever work as an open diff again, so I guess it would just have to shatter. But who cares, I've got two more open 3.7's sitting in the 82 wreck.


oh, most definately!! overkill is much better than underkill!

#18 Phizinza

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Posted 29 September 2006 - 02:43 AM

I just can't wait to get this in some real dirt! Should be lots of fun finding the new limits. :):banana:

#19 beataru

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Posted 29 September 2006 - 05:45 PM

I just can't wait to get this in some real dirt! Should be lots of fun finding the-------- new limits-------. :):banana:


New limits??? that would involve breaking something :headbang:

#20 dixracing

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Posted 29 September 2006 - 08:06 PM

i believe i am going to weld my 3.9 this next week....the cops seem to frown upon my subie..:cool: ..hehe ......dumb rump roast town clowns.....:eek: i don't think they liked the 8" lift.....so i added a stupid looking light bar and one of those irritating electric triple air horns.......that otta get 'em going.....:burnout:

#21 Phizinza

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Posted 29 September 2006 - 08:48 PM

i believe i am going to weld my 3.9 this next week....the cops seem to frown upon my subie..:cool: ..hehe ......dumb rump roast town clowns.....:eek: i don't think they liked the 8" lift.....so i added a stupid looking light bar and one of those irritating electric triple air horns.......that otta get 'em going.....:burnout:

If you done anything like that here they would just defect your car on the spot and you would have to take it back to stock before being able to drive it on the road again... Count yourself lucky.

And yes, I don't mind if I break anything. I have two spare rear shafts sitting in the shed ready for the trip! :)

#22 Brumby Boy

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Posted 29 September 2006 - 09:24 PM

Hay man nice job on that diff i dont think its breakin any time soon:grin:
thats my next mod actualy im half way through getin another diff to weld up before i pull mine. then i just gotta get some bigger tyres and get that ej22 in.

#23 Phizinza

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Posted 29 September 2006 - 10:02 PM

Yeah, I plan on putting my EJ22 in as well. But I have some other ideas. Will share with everyone in the near future. Only clue at the moment is I am looking for a FT4WD box, but I don't plan on using it ;)

My EA81 seems to push this welded rear along quite nicely. I had doubts as someone I went offroading with said you need a EA82t or more to drive these locked rears... Pitty my local offroad spot got closed down, now I have to travle for 2+ hours to have fun :( Unless I go back on the beach, but my car didn't have much troubles on the beach with open diffs

#24 Brumby Boy

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Posted 29 September 2006 - 10:33 PM

ooo secreasy hay must be good.

since i got the new car with the 2" lift i have found 2 good playgrounds, 1 near my parents place (the burdekin river) and the other looks like an old quary just north of town theres always lifted patrols, crusers and other toys there not to mention bikes. there was a heap of bikes watchen me and none of them could believe it was a soobie up climbin them hills they were :confused: :confused: :confused: :clap: :clap: :clap: and i was :headbang: :headbang: :headbang:

#25 Phizinza

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Posted 29 September 2006 - 10:44 PM

It's so funny watching big trucks in the sand, while to breeze past in your roo.. I'll never forget that.

I don't like keeping secrets, but this is an idea I want to try before letting everyone else do it. I want to be the first :rolleyes::clap::lol::-p




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